ISO and for trade thread part 5
02-24-23, 02:52 PM
#5626
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Cyclone MKii GT tiny tiny tab thingy...
A Suntour Cyclone GT MKii rear derailleur is missing the teensy tiny little tab that goes in the split bolt for the cage pivot. Without it, the bolt is either too loose to keep from further loosening, or too tight to allow the cage to pivot.. I don't believe I have the eyesight or dexterity to try to fashion one with a dremel. Anyone got an old, busted up Cyclone the might give one of these tabs up? Or an idea of an alternative? Locktite, maybe......?
02-24-23, 03:17 PM
#5627
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
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02-24-23, 03:26 PM
#5628
What??? Only 2 wheels?
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Looking for short Campy crank arms! A long-time cycling friend, actually an ex-boss with whom I have maintained a closer friendship, wrote to me that he needs a shorter crank arm. He wrote:
He has short-ish legs which are, in his words, well beyond their warranty (as are mine). His cranks are 175. So he asked me if there is any functional substitute, or if Campy even made 165s back then.
It strikes me that any crank would do as long as the chainrings aren't too wide for the chain and the spacing can be accommodated by the FD ( which presumably is indexing) and the offset is suitable. So many if's.
If any of you know of or have such a crank, that would be awesome! We can work out a deal!
I'm riding a 1998 or 1999 Trek 5000 with Campy running gear. The
crankset is (I think) 1999 Campy Record 9-speed.
crankset is (I think) 1999 Campy Record 9-speed.
It strikes me that any crank would do as long as the chainrings aren't too wide for the chain and the spacing can be accommodated by the FD ( which presumably is indexing) and the offset is suitable. So many if's.
If any of you know of or have such a crank, that would be awesome! We can work out a deal!
__________________
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
02-24-23, 03:31 PM
#5629
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02-24-23, 03:49 PM
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@ehcoplex
Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.
Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.
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02-24-23, 05:47 PM
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What pads are you going to use? It looks like I will have Suntour pads to replace sometime next week, so wondering if anyone knows the specs? Are these 36mm or 40mm? I'm looking at Fibrax pads as a replacement, they have X-pattern rounded ones, but they seem to come in both sizes.
02-24-23, 05:59 PM
#5632
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What pads are you going to use? It looks like I will have Suntour pads to replace sometime next week, so wondering if anyone knows the specs? Are these 36mm or 40mm? I'm looking at Fibrax pads as a replacement, they have X-pattern rounded ones, but they seem to come in both sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Sun...283076&sr=8-57
02-24-23, 06:14 PM
#5633
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What pads are you going to use? It looks like I will have Suntour pads to replace sometime next week, so wondering if anyone knows the specs? Are these 36mm or 40mm? I'm looking at Fibrax pads as a replacement, they have X-pattern rounded ones, but they seem to come in both sizes.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
02-24-23, 07:03 PM
#5634
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Well, went to KoolStop website and they are actually quite good and give all the measurements. So apparently the ones they have as Superbe brake pads replacement are 36.4mm long. The ones I was looking at, with X pattern, are probably Weinmann standard. There's a tiny difference in measurements, so probably best to avoid. But I completely forgot that actually I could just check manufacturer's website or contact them. Which, of course, is the obvious option 
02-24-23, 07:24 PM
#5635
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@ehcoplex
Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.
Got an extra, old 1/8" screwdriver around? Cut a 1/4 inch off the end and it should make a decent substitute.
02-24-23, 07:25 PM
#5636
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Hey, @echoplex I used to have a Mk II with a busted spring. (They rust out.) I may have sent it off to someone a few years ago. It's been a long time. If I still have it and you still need it I'll send it to you. Let me check first before you start celebrating.
02-24-23, 07:58 PM
#5637
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does it matter if it doesn't have the tiny 'wings' at the bottom? My assumption (which absolutely could be wrong..) was that the 'wings' are what stop the nut from tightening to the point of binding the pivot... Love the way the Cyclone shifts, but wow this seems like an iffy design decision (the tab, not the hack!).
I think the main purpose of the tab is to have something above the spring after its put in the slot, to keep the nut from bending in the two halves of the slotted bolt.
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02-25-23, 05:41 AM
#5638
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^^^^^^^ FWIW: I have that RD on my Fuji TS III and it also lacked that wee tiny “wedge” when I got it. I overhauled the RD and could not figure out what the wedge was for, given how the other parts went together and held everything in place. I did wonder about dirt getting inside the housing so fashioned a rubber plug for the hole. I rode that bike a lot for a couple of years without issue. The RD operated flawlessly. Last year I found a trashed Cyclone and salvaged the wedge then installed it on the Fuji just because……..
I’m not convinced it’s needed but it cost Suntour a pile to design, manufacture, stock and install the bitty things so it must have a purpose. But I would not worry about riding without it. YMMV.
I’m not convinced it’s needed but it cost Suntour a pile to design, manufacture, stock and install the bitty things so it must have a purpose. But I would not worry about riding without it. YMMV.
02-25-23, 07:08 AM
#5639
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^^^^^^^ FWIW: I have that RD on my Fuji TS III and it also lacked that wee tiny “wedge” when I got it. I overhauled the RD and could not figure out what the wedge was for, given how the other parts went together and held everything in place. I did wonder about dirt getting inside the housing so fashioned a rubber plug for the hole. I rode that bike a lot for a couple of years without issue. The RD operated flawlessly. Last year I found a trashed Cyclone and salvaged the wedge then installed it on the Fuji just because……..
I’m not convinced it’s needed but it cost Suntour a pile to design, manufacture, stock and install the bitty things so it must have a purpose. But I would not worry about riding without it. YMMV.
I’m not convinced it’s needed but it cost Suntour a pile to design, manufacture, stock and install the bitty things so it must have a purpose. But I would not worry about riding without it. YMMV.
02-25-23, 04:06 PM
#5640
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Hmm, I think you were lucky. Initially I thought maybe I can get away without it, but I've been riding the bike with the bit missing and checking the pivot nut after every ride and it loosens up enough that I'm sure it'd eventually fall off (with obvious disastrous result). If I tighten it enough so that it doesn't self-loosen it doesn't pivot freely... I'm going to give the screw-driver tip hack a try for now.
I first took one apart in the 70's, thought that the piece was just to keep the bolt from squishing together myself after first saying WTH?
Would have been around the same time that I detroyed a Simplex rear derailer by ignoring the mounting bolt on the back side of the dropout and prying out the plastic plug before removing it with a big Allen key.
Ignorance was bliss, until it wasn't!
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02-26-23, 04:10 AM
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A Suntour Cyclone GT MKii rear derailleur is missing the teensy tiny little tab that goes in the split bolt for the cage pivot. Without it, the bolt is either too loose to keep from further loosening, or too tight to allow the cage to pivot.. I don't believe I have the eyesight or dexterity to try to fashion one with a dremel.
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02-27-23, 04:24 PM
#5642
Banned.
A long shot but here goes - Rocky Mountain Sherpa 30 853 frame in an XXL. This is the long discontinued touring bike frame, not the newer mountain bike. Have Dura-Ace 7700 Road Hubset + cashola for swap. Gotta be an xxl (6'4" rider)
03-03-23, 01:49 PM
#5643
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03-03-23, 03:59 PM
#5644
Old guy & bikes
For trade (or possibly sale): Front wheel, working GH6 hub, Raleigh Pattern rim. Wheel runs true and has no dents, spokes are reasonably tight. I'd call it a serviceable wheel. Some surface rust on hub and rim, but could be dolled up with rubbing compound and aluminum foil treatment. GC cloth rim strip.
I'm looking for a 36 hole GH6 hub, optionally built into a Twenty rim. It need not be cosmetically great, but I'd like it to have minimal rust.
I'm looking for a 36 hole GH6 hub, optionally built into a Twenty rim. It need not be cosmetically great, but I'd like it to have minimal rust.
03-04-23, 11:59 PM
#5646
actually i guess newbie
I’ve got a Miami Vice Ironman (Tange 1) with a 64cm CTT seat tube in the shed, if that would be of interest. May be on the small side for you.
It’s broken down into a frameset hanging up and complete groupset (Shimano 105) in a box somewhere. Condition is pretty good, as I recall.
It’s broken down into a frameset hanging up and complete groupset (Shimano 105) in a box somewhere. Condition is pretty good, as I recall.
03-06-23, 05:27 PM
#5648
actually i guess newbie
03-06-23, 06:36 PM
#5649
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I have a pair of Fiamme Red label tubular rims (36H). One has a couple dents. I would like to find a replacement. (This is for my low budget Automoto build and will be mated to some FB hubs.) The labels look like this one nicked from Velobase:
I've got stuff to trade. Interested in a pair of Wolber anodized Arc en Ciel rims, Sugino crank (165 or 171), or ...? I can probably dredge up more trading material.
I've got stuff to trade. Interested in a pair of Wolber anodized Arc en Ciel rims, Sugino crank (165 or 171), or ...? I can probably dredge up more trading material.
03-07-23, 08:28 PM
#5650
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