Will a Jamis Coda Sport support a 300+ pound rider? (uber-clyde, rhinoryder, etc)
05-05-07, 10:38 AM
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I can't tell exactly how much it will cost, but I know that local shops here charge $25-45 in labor for a build. Ironically the cheapest shop is probably the best in town, and the highest I'd have less faith in. Go figure 
.
My total wheel build would cost $125 for the rear. That's for a Sun RhynoLite, Deore hub, some skewer I don't even remember, DT spokes, and the "handbuild". The spokes alone are going to run nearly $50, because I'm a dork and I want black spokes. However, thanks to the shop being awesome, the total I'm paying is less than the cost of the spokes .
I would imagine that for new spokes and a handbuild, if you went with decent spokes, you could get in under $75, probably even under $50. If you keep your current rim and hub, that is, and there's no reason not to. The only reason I'm upgrading is that my rim is warped from riding 20 miles with a busted spoke to get back to the shop... oops. While they are doing the entire build, I figured I may as well just get a new hub, and for the price the "regular" Deore is just fine.
But yeah, even better would be if your shop would let you purchase the parts online and build them up for you at the cost of labor. I was going to do this, but it ended up that the shop got the parts for less than I could have gotten them, and threw in a hefty discount and credit for the existing (and busted) rear wheel.
. My total wheel build would cost $125 for the rear. That's for a Sun RhynoLite, Deore hub, some skewer I don't even remember, DT spokes, and the "handbuild". The spokes alone are going to run nearly $50, because I'm a dork and I want black spokes
. However, thanks to the shop being awesome, the total I'm paying is less than the cost of the spokes . I would imagine that for new spokes and a handbuild, if you went with decent spokes, you could get in under $75, probably even under $50. If you keep your current rim and hub, that is, and there's no reason not to. The only reason I'm upgrading is that my rim is warped from riding 20 miles with a busted spoke to get back to the shop... oops. While they are doing the entire build, I figured I may as well just get a new hub, and for the price the "regular" Deore is just fine.
But yeah, even better would be if your shop would let you purchase the parts online and build them up for you at the cost of labor. I was going to do this, but it ended up that the shop got the parts for less than I could have gotten them, and threw in a hefty discount and credit for the existing (and busted) rear wheel
.
05-11-07, 05:07 PM
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Yes rode a Coda at 368,keep your eye on tire pressure, at recomened,I went 5lbs higher. Air gets lost when youremove the valve and/or check the pressure anyway.I road a Giant Hybrid even more at over 340 lbs.
05-11-07, 05:34 PM
#30
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Stock wheels 700c x 28, 32 spoke on my 2005 (don't know what they 2007's have).
I never switched to 35 tires ... maybe I should have ...
I do like the tires though! I was nealry 300 lbs when I started, now 280.
I never switched to 35 tires ... maybe I should have ...
I do like the tires though! I was nealry 300 lbs when I started, now 280.
05-11-07, 06:38 PM
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I'm riding 32's and am quite happy with them.
HOWEVER I'd really like to have something wider that rides a little softer for long rides. As such, I'm considering putting Big Apples on my MTB, and adding a brooks for some long rides. The geometry isn't as favorable as my Hot Hybrid, but comfort on long rides is key.
Summary, I'd go with 35's for comfort reasons.
HOWEVER I'd really like to have something wider that rides a little softer for long rides. As such, I'm considering putting Big Apples on my MTB, and adding a brooks for some long rides. The geometry isn't as favorable as my Hot Hybrid, but comfort on long rides is key.
Summary, I'd go with 35's for comfort reasons.
05-12-07, 08:42 AM
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Thanks for the information.
My LBS is not sure 35mm tires will fit on the Coda Sport or Coda Comp (and does not have andy Coda's in stock). Does anyone know whether they will fit or not?
Thanks again.
My LBS is not sure 35mm tires will fit on the Coda Sport or Coda Comp (and does not have andy Coda's in stock). Does anyone know whether they will fit or not?
Thanks again.
05-12-07, 06:27 PM
#33
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definitely has clearance for 35mm tires.
Abe
Abe
05-27-07, 01:12 PM
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Before reading this post I too purschased.....
a Coda Sport from bicycleblowout.com. My questions is did you have to do anything else besides installing the seat,handelbar,pedals& front wheel? The are supposed to be test ridden and tuned before shipping. I do not want spend $$ to go to a LBS to tune up the bike out of the box.
TIA -Whitehare-
TIA -Whitehare-
Originally Posted by jbrams
Well, I bought the bike today from bicycleblowout.com (the website of a shop in Nevada, they sell locally and online - they are directly connected with Jamis somehow and get some of their new old-stock, i.e., last year's models).
No one seems to have these Jamis Coda's or Coda Sports in stock locally (and even not so locally). And the one shop I was able to find one in was a 2007 Sport in 19.5" which is too big for me.
Bicycleblowout had the 2005 Jamis Coda Sport for $479.99 in 17.5" ... last Coda or Coda sport they had in this size, they have some others in 19.5 or 21.5 and something in 16".
Basically, here were the prices after tax I was looking at (keeping in mind I was willing to pay more to buy locally):
Locally:
2007 Coda - $487 (on order, 1+ month)
2007 Coda Sport - $623 (only 19.5", for 17.5 on order, 1+ month)
Bicycleblowout:
2006 Coda: $379.99 (ran out of 17.5" a day ago)
2006 Coda sport: $519.99 (ran out of 17.5" recently)
2005 Coda sport: $479.99 (I bought the last 17.5")
Essentially the decision was made for me because the LBS couldn't get these models any time soon and no guarantee that they'd get them at all (Jamis, like most companies, gives first preference in ordering to those shops which pre-purchase more bikes earlier in the season, no LBS who does that so they all can only order and hope). Bicycleblowout ran out of my size in the 2006 models, so the last 2005 was the only option left in my size. It's $7 less than the 2007 Coda and comes with some substantial improvements and some things that are not as good at the 2006 or 2007:
2005 Coda sport vs. ...
(1) The 2005 Sport has 36h eyeletted wheels, which is good b/c I'm heavy, vs. 32h non-eyeletted wheels on the 2007 Coda or 32h eyeletted wheels on the 2007 Sport. 2005 Sport best meets my needs.
(2) Ritchey adjustible stem vs. generic adjustible stem on the Coda (same Ritchey stem on the 2007 Sport). Prefer the Ritchey stem, probably would work just the same as the generic one though, a wash.
(3) 2005 Sport has 24 speed. 2007 Coda has 24 speed but lower end components. 2007 Sport has 27 speed, similar level components. This is a wash as far as I'm concerned.
(4) 2005 Sport 25lbs, 2007 Coda 26.25lbs, 2007 Sport 25.75 ... the 2005 Sport is the lightest!
(5) $480, $487, $623. 2005 Sport is the cheapest!
I think this worked out great, thanks for the help everyone!
No one seems to have these Jamis Coda's or Coda Sports in stock locally (and even not so locally). And the one shop I was able to find one in was a 2007 Sport in 19.5" which is too big for me.
Bicycleblowout had the 2005 Jamis Coda Sport for $479.99 in 17.5" ... last Coda or Coda sport they had in this size, they have some others in 19.5 or 21.5 and something in 16".
Basically, here were the prices after tax I was looking at (keeping in mind I was willing to pay more to buy locally):
Locally:
2007 Coda - $487 (on order, 1+ month)
2007 Coda Sport - $623 (only 19.5", for 17.5 on order, 1+ month)
Bicycleblowout:
2006 Coda: $379.99 (ran out of 17.5" a day ago)
2006 Coda sport: $519.99 (ran out of 17.5" recently)
2005 Coda sport: $479.99 (I bought the last 17.5")
Essentially the decision was made for me because the LBS couldn't get these models any time soon and no guarantee that they'd get them at all (Jamis, like most companies, gives first preference in ordering to those shops which pre-purchase more bikes earlier in the season, no LBS who does that so they all can only order and hope). Bicycleblowout ran out of my size in the 2006 models, so the last 2005 was the only option left in my size. It's $7 less than the 2007 Coda and comes with some substantial improvements and some things that are not as good at the 2006 or 2007:
2005 Coda sport vs. ...
(1) The 2005 Sport has 36h eyeletted wheels, which is good b/c I'm heavy, vs. 32h non-eyeletted wheels on the 2007 Coda or 32h eyeletted wheels on the 2007 Sport. 2005 Sport best meets my needs.
(2) Ritchey adjustible stem vs. generic adjustible stem on the Coda (same Ritchey stem on the 2007 Sport). Prefer the Ritchey stem, probably would work just the same as the generic one though, a wash.
(3) 2005 Sport has 24 speed. 2007 Coda has 24 speed but lower end components. 2007 Sport has 27 speed, similar level components. This is a wash as far as I'm concerned.
(4) 2005 Sport 25lbs, 2007 Coda 26.25lbs, 2007 Sport 25.75 ... the 2005 Sport is the lightest!
(5) $480, $487, $623. 2005 Sport is the cheapest!
I think this worked out great, thanks for the help everyone!
05-27-07, 01:18 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
It was pretty well assembeled, I can't recall exactly what else I did but your list sounds about right.
Be careful with the cable housing off the handlebars ... it can get twisted b/c the bars are not connected when it ships.
It didn't seem to have any signs of being test riden, but they probably took it out into a parking lot where there wasn't much dirt/gravel/pebbles and just made sure the shifting was accurate and the brakes didn't squeal/chatter. This shifting arrived fairly accurate too, only minor adjustments with the quick adjusters at the shifter controls, didn't need to adjust the cables at the derailuers.
One thing that was off - the bottom bracket needed to be tightened, I didn't notice until after a couple rides. And the upper and lower limits for the front derailuer had to be adjusted too, but this was kinda expected.
These little issues won't be so much of a problem for someone smaller than me, big guys tend to stress each components' failure limits as it takes more pressure to get us moving.
UPDATE - I have since sold this bike after getting the wheel replaced with another 32 spoke rear. It was too small and I replaced it with another Coda Sport but this time I got the 21.5" which has surprisingly similar clearance (maybe it's just me). The longer top tube made a big difference for me, no more extra long setback seatpost for me =).
I got a 2007 model from a local shop (missinglink.org) and they built me a rear wheel that can take a serious beating ...
Hub: Shimano Tiagra
Spokes: double butted 14/15 (3 cross pattern)
Rim: Rhyno Lite by Sun Rims
Tire: Soma New Express 35 (had to get bigger tire to fit the Rhyno lite rim since it's substantially wider).
Took it out for critical mass in SF (where we were attacked by zombies who had been kicked out of a mac store, weird) and it held up perfectly over many bumps and holes (ended up riding on poorly lit street with plenty of big bumps and it was great! Even took a few stairs without issue).
Ended up being $765 total:
$655 for bike (after tax)
$110 for rear wheel, tire, tube, non-QR seatpost skewer, and labor.
Plus I get 1 year warranty on everything at a very local shop who have a room set up with two sets of tools for anyone who comes in (stands and everything, even free lube, chain grease, and whatnot).
Compared with the $499 for the Coda Sport from bicycleblowout.com I'm out and extra $155 on the bike and $110 on the wheel ... but I needed the bigger wheel regardless so I don't count that against the difference in cost. Really a $155 difference for a 2007 with 1 year local free service (vs. 2005 with no service, unassembaled.)
thanks for everyone's help!
Be careful with the cable housing off the handlebars ... it can get twisted b/c the bars are not connected when it ships.
It didn't seem to have any signs of being test riden, but they probably took it out into a parking lot where there wasn't much dirt/gravel/pebbles and just made sure the shifting was accurate and the brakes didn't squeal/chatter. This shifting arrived fairly accurate too, only minor adjustments with the quick adjusters at the shifter controls, didn't need to adjust the cables at the derailuers.
One thing that was off - the bottom bracket needed to be tightened, I didn't notice until after a couple rides. And the upper and lower limits for the front derailuer had to be adjusted too, but this was kinda expected.
These little issues won't be so much of a problem for someone smaller than me, big guys tend to stress each components' failure limits as it takes more pressure to get us moving.
UPDATE - I have since sold this bike after getting the wheel replaced with another 32 spoke rear. It was too small and I replaced it with another Coda Sport but this time I got the 21.5" which has surprisingly similar clearance (maybe it's just me). The longer top tube made a big difference for me, no more extra long setback seatpost for me =).
I got a 2007 model from a local shop (missinglink.org) and they built me a rear wheel that can take a serious beating ...
Hub: Shimano Tiagra
Spokes: double butted 14/15 (3 cross pattern)
Rim: Rhyno Lite by Sun Rims
Tire: Soma New Express 35 (had to get bigger tire to fit the Rhyno lite rim since it's substantially wider).
Took it out for critical mass in SF (where we were attacked by zombies who had been kicked out of a mac store, weird) and it held up perfectly over many bumps and holes (ended up riding on poorly lit street with plenty of big bumps and it was great! Even took a few stairs without issue).
Ended up being $765 total:
$655 for bike (after tax)
$110 for rear wheel, tire, tube, non-QR seatpost skewer, and labor.
Plus I get 1 year warranty on everything at a very local shop who have a room set up with two sets of tools for anyone who comes in (stands and everything, even free lube, chain grease, and whatnot).
Compared with the $499 for the Coda Sport from bicycleblowout.com I'm out and extra $155 on the bike and $110 on the wheel ... but I needed the bigger wheel regardless so I don't count that against the difference in cost. Really a $155 difference for a 2007 with 1 year local free service (vs. 2005 with no service, unassembaled.)
thanks for everyone's help!
Last edited by jbrams; 05-27-07 at 01:32 PM.
02-10-19, 06:24 PM
#36
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Thread Starter
Years later:
The 2007 Coda Sport held up great (and I lost almost 100 pounds)! My friend has it now (a gift from me) and we made some upgrades recently which allowed me to review how things did over a decade+:
The bottom bracket (truvative powerspline 68x117.5mm) didn't cause any problems, but we replaced it while replacing the crankset with smaller chainrings (52/42/30 to 48/38/28) and the rear cassette with a wide range model (11-36t) to allow for better hill climbing. The BB was a little funny feeling when we spun it in our hands, but didn't feel bad on the bike. Replaced with UN55 which is great.
The cassette was worn but worked fine. The new cassette at 36t (vs. 32t originally) has plenty of room in the b-screw adjustment on the rear derailleur.
The crankset was in okay shape, but worn teeth, a couple with substantial damage which didn't actually affect ride/shifting ... just too tall rings for the riding we do.
The front wheel is original - needed to be trued twice in the last decade. Good wheel.
The rear wheel was an upgrade from the beginning, Rhyno Lite rim with 40h. It also needed to be trued up a bit once recently, but is sturdy still. Now it's too heavy duty for the current purpose and smaller owner so he'll replace it with a 32h wheel eventually.
The tires were replaced with Continental Touring Plus - nearly bomb proof, heavy but maybe 2 flats in 10 years for a staple that punctured it. I've pulled glass out by hand that still didn't puncture the tube.
The chain did okay, but I weighed a lot and it stretched over time. Included some loaded touring on top of everything else. Replaced with KMC 9.93, works great.
The headset has been flawless, rear derailleur has held up well (deore) and the front derailleur FD-R443a is just okay (should be replaced honestly).
The adjustable stem is fine but heavy and a hassle to adjust the angle on, nearly useless for any more adjustments now because the large bolt is getting stripped. Should get a lighter, fixed angle stem as a replacement.
The paint has been abused but held up okay. Rustolium While Appliance epoxy paint filled some scratches, so did Farm Equipment red on the red bits (a great color match by coincidence),
Happy with the steel Coda Sport after so long. But now I have a Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Rivendell Cheviot, and a 2013 Salsa El Mariachi (and a 2007 Jamis Aurora that I'll give away to my little brother soon). My wife still has her 2009 Jamis Coda Femme too, improved with some slightly swept back bars and ergon GP1 grips and a new seat.
The 2007 Coda Sport held up great (and I lost almost 100 pounds)! My friend has it now (a gift from me) and we made some upgrades recently which allowed me to review how things did over a decade+:
The bottom bracket (truvative powerspline 68x117.5mm) didn't cause any problems, but we replaced it while replacing the crankset with smaller chainrings (52/42/30 to 48/38/28) and the rear cassette with a wide range model (11-36t) to allow for better hill climbing. The BB was a little funny feeling when we spun it in our hands, but didn't feel bad on the bike. Replaced with UN55 which is great.
The cassette was worn but worked fine. The new cassette at 36t (vs. 32t originally) has plenty of room in the b-screw adjustment on the rear derailleur.
The crankset was in okay shape, but worn teeth, a couple with substantial damage which didn't actually affect ride/shifting ... just too tall rings for the riding we do.
The front wheel is original - needed to be trued twice in the last decade. Good wheel.
The rear wheel was an upgrade from the beginning, Rhyno Lite rim with 40h. It also needed to be trued up a bit once recently, but is sturdy still. Now it's too heavy duty for the current purpose and smaller owner so he'll replace it with a 32h wheel eventually.
The tires were replaced with Continental Touring Plus - nearly bomb proof, heavy but maybe 2 flats in 10 years for a staple that punctured it. I've pulled glass out by hand that still didn't puncture the tube.
The chain did okay, but I weighed a lot and it stretched over time. Included some loaded touring on top of everything else. Replaced with KMC 9.93, works great.
The headset has been flawless, rear derailleur has held up well (deore) and the front derailleur FD-R443a is just okay (should be replaced honestly).
The adjustable stem is fine but heavy and a hassle to adjust the angle on, nearly useless for any more adjustments now because the large bolt is getting stripped. Should get a lighter, fixed angle stem as a replacement.
The paint has been abused but held up okay. Rustolium While Appliance epoxy paint filled some scratches, so did Farm Equipment red on the red bits (a great color match by coincidence),
Happy with the steel Coda Sport after so long. But now I have a Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Rivendell Cheviot, and a 2013 Salsa El Mariachi (and a 2007 Jamis Aurora that I'll give away to my little brother soon). My wife still has her 2009 Jamis Coda Femme too, improved with some slightly swept back bars and ergon GP1 grips and a new seat.
Last edited by jbrams; 02-11-19 at 09:19 PM. Reason: Error in BB size
02-11-19, 07:37 PM
#37
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Years later:
The 2007 Coda Sport held up great (and I lost almost 100 pounds)! My friend has it now (a gift from me) and we made some upgrades recently which allowed me to review how things did over a decade+:
The bottom bracket (truvative powerspline 68x113mm) didn't cause any problems, but we replaced it while replacing the crankset with smaller chainrings (52/42/30 to 48/38/28) and the rear cassette with a wide range model (11-36t) to allow for better hill climbing. The BB was a little funny feeling when we spun it in our hands, but didn't feel bad on the bike. Replaced with UN55 which is great.
The cassette was worn but worked fine. The new cassette at 36t (vs. 32t originally) has plenty of room in the b-screw adjustment on the rear derailleur.
The crankset was in okay shape, but worn teeth, a couple with substantial damage which didn't actually affect ride/shifting ... just too tall rings for the riding we do.
The front wheel is original - needed to be trued twice in the last decade. Good wheel.
The rear wheel was an upgrade from the beginning, Rhyno Lite rim with 40h. It also needed to be trued up a bit once recently, but is sturdy still. Now it's too heavy duty for the current purpose and smaller owner so he'll replace it with a 32h wheel eventually.
The tires were replaced with Continental Touring Plus - nearly bomb proof, heavy but maybe 2 flats in 10 years for a staple that punctured it. I've pulled glass out by hand that still didn't puncture the tube.
The chain did okay, but I weighed a lot and it stretched over time. Included some loaded touring on top of everything else. Replaced with KMC 9.93, works great.
The headset has been flawless, rear derailleur has held up well (deore) and the front derailleur FD-R443a is just okay (should be replaced honestly).
The adjustable stem is fine but heavy and a hassle to adjust the angle on, nearly useless for any more adjustments now because the large bolt is getting stripped. Should get a lighter, fixed angle stem as a replacement.
The paint has been abused but held up okay. Rustolium While Appliance epoxy paint filled some scratches, so did Farm Equipment red on the red bits (a great color match by coincidence),
Happy with the steel Coda Sport after so long. But now I have a Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Rivendell Cheviot, and a 2013 Salsa El Mariachi (and a 2007 Jamis Aurora that I'll give away to my little brother soon). My wife still has her 2009 Jamis Coda Femme too, improved with some slightly swept back bars and ergon GP1 grips and a new seat.
The 2007 Coda Sport held up great (and I lost almost 100 pounds)! My friend has it now (a gift from me) and we made some upgrades recently which allowed me to review how things did over a decade+:
The bottom bracket (truvative powerspline 68x113mm) didn't cause any problems, but we replaced it while replacing the crankset with smaller chainrings (52/42/30 to 48/38/28) and the rear cassette with a wide range model (11-36t) to allow for better hill climbing. The BB was a little funny feeling when we spun it in our hands, but didn't feel bad on the bike. Replaced with UN55 which is great.
The cassette was worn but worked fine. The new cassette at 36t (vs. 32t originally) has plenty of room in the b-screw adjustment on the rear derailleur.
The crankset was in okay shape, but worn teeth, a couple with substantial damage which didn't actually affect ride/shifting ... just too tall rings for the riding we do.
The front wheel is original - needed to be trued twice in the last decade. Good wheel.
The rear wheel was an upgrade from the beginning, Rhyno Lite rim with 40h. It also needed to be trued up a bit once recently, but is sturdy still. Now it's too heavy duty for the current purpose and smaller owner so he'll replace it with a 32h wheel eventually.
The tires were replaced with Continental Touring Plus - nearly bomb proof, heavy but maybe 2 flats in 10 years for a staple that punctured it. I've pulled glass out by hand that still didn't puncture the tube.
The chain did okay, but I weighed a lot and it stretched over time. Included some loaded touring on top of everything else. Replaced with KMC 9.93, works great.
The headset has been flawless, rear derailleur has held up well (deore) and the front derailleur FD-R443a is just okay (should be replaced honestly).
The adjustable stem is fine but heavy and a hassle to adjust the angle on, nearly useless for any more adjustments now because the large bolt is getting stripped. Should get a lighter, fixed angle stem as a replacement.
The paint has been abused but held up okay. Rustolium While Appliance epoxy paint filled some scratches, so did Farm Equipment red on the red bits (a great color match by coincidence),
Happy with the steel Coda Sport after so long. But now I have a Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Rivendell Cheviot, and a 2013 Salsa El Mariachi (and a 2007 Jamis Aurora that I'll give away to my little brother soon). My wife still has her 2009 Jamis Coda Femme too, improved with some slightly swept back bars and ergon GP1 grips and a new seat.
Thanks for the update.
It is always interesting to see how the future panned out for someone.
