uncle uncle

So, I'm debating making something similar to RJ's graveler (no affiliation, but I do like his instruction videos immensely). I have a vintage 1980 Fuji that's already a hodgepodge of mostly period correct stuff, but nothing is really catalog correct either. As an example, this Fuji should have a Fuji monogrammed crankset, but has a Sugino Maxi crank on it instead. I wondered if the wiser and more experienced enablers out there would have a C&V option for the 36 tooth single crankset arrangement that RJ choose? Also, could I get away with some sort of friction thumb shifter arrangement for a 1X10 setup (i.e., would a friction thumb shifter, or a friction stem shifter) have enough throw to go thru the whole 10 ring setup in the rear? Thanks in advance for you advice, even if it's to talk me out of the plan...

Lascauxcaveman 

Any double or triple that has a 110bcd will do ya for a 36T ring; there's quite a few out there. Sugino, Sakae, SR, Deore, etc. Not sure on the thumb shifter "going to 10" but I'd be willing to try it. I have a few in storage for the day I do.

ThermionicScott 

+1, lots of cranksets could do it. If I were doing it, I'd probably get a narrow-wide chainring for a little insurance.

nlerner

You might also get a chain keeper of some sort for insurance, too.

rosefarts

This is my 1x10 Gravel bike. Campagnolo 135bcd crank limits me to a minimum of 40t on the narrow wide chainring. If you zoom in, you'll also notice one of those chain minders from eBay.

That's an 11-42 cassette with a Shadow SLX derailleur. I use Microshift mountain pull thumb shifters.

I would suggest something indexed. I use the bike in a lot of mountain bike situations. There simply isn't enough time fiddle with gears, you need more precision in a hurry. Friction would probably be fine for 10 speed on the road.

With the 38mm tires, I do get some toe rub. I don't get any with 30s. So keep that in mind. I've managed a ton of very serious miles on this one, it's definitely the most trustworthy bike .
I have.

Message me if you have any questions. I built mine from the bare frame, so I have some insight in this.

mstateglfr 

Usamade.com makes quality 1x rings for a good price. 110bcd rings are now oval, if that matters to you.

Reynolds 531 

IMHO, be careful what you wish for.
The vintage stuff just cannot "climb up" to a lower gear very easily at all. It is so much easier to build a 10x2, and when a low gear is needed just dump onto the small front chainring.

This is useful for Gravel, because with my thinking, "gravel" means going places farther away (and new) than you go on your mountain bike
and places you would never go on your road bike. So a quick dump to an easy gear for a surprise hill or turn or mud, is so much easier with 10x2.

Lascauxcaveman 

I haven't heard that before, and am unsure what you mean. The RD has a hard time shifting that far? Shifters have a hard time pulling that much cable? Or what? Fill me in, before I order my first 10-cog cassette.

bwilli88 

This is a 2x10 but I run it more like a 1x, I run a 46x34 front shifted by a Dura-Ace DT lever and FD and a 11-36 rear shifted with an Ultegra level flat bar shifter (Shimano Flat Bar Road Shifters, SL-R661). I also have the Ultegra level flat bar brakes working with Ultegra brakes.

Bianchigirll 

I just don't get it. I've never been much of a spinner so I don't get the idea of a compact crank and these 10x1 setups make no sense to me at all.

Do you already have 10spd wheels on hand? Will the frame accept the wider 10spd wheel?

I agree with other opinions just us a 110BCD triple so when you don't like the 10x1 you don't need to find a new crank.

It is a bit heavier but did you consider a IGH?

Reynolds 531 

When you need to go to an easier gear, in a hurry, a front derailleur can drop from big chainring to little chainring MUCH faster than a rear derailleur can move the chain up the cassette to an easier gear.

Gravel Emergency is described as:
"Wow, this is a really cool fire road"
"where does this go"
"oh look a creek"
"oh crap this is steeper than it looked"
"I need to shift NOW"
"dammit now my feet are wet"

uncle uncle

Well, all good questions... 1st, I have zero knowledge of gravel riding, other than the times I found myself out on gravel roads, with my C&V road bike, because I have no innate inner map, and was too tired or too late to not take the road less traveled. Mostly, I've bowed out of riding many of the roads around here, because massive pot holes and aggressive drivers have me to the point where risking my life to ride my bicycle (something I enjoy, but it's not my life) just doesn't seem to be getting better. I'm about to lose another main bicycle path, where I do most of my riding, to an ill conceived land grab by local authorities. I do have a set of fairly nice 130mm wheels, just setting there. I have no experience "cold setting a frame", but do have some tools, and the exuberance that only prior knowledge and experience would temper. This particular bicycle has no value, no C&V cache, beyond the freedoms that a Ugly Betty beater allows you. So, if I was ever to be okay with cold setting a bike frame, this one is as good as I've run across. As far as the 1 X 10, I mostly ride in the lower chainring, only shifting to the big boy ring when aided by a strong wind and a down hill. I'd probably look for a cassette that gave me the same gear ratio spread (maybe give myself a higher bail out gear) and, in theory, gain more intermediate steps in gearing, without having to shift to a bigger chainring. I am a spinner, in words and wheels. So, mostly, no good reasoning... I was pretty sure, with this crowd, well reasoned reasons wasn't a prerequisite for a build. Was I wrong?

dscoduc

I have recently converted a 1x10 11-36 to a 1x10 11-42 and I can say that there is plenty of gear range for most of what you will want to do. For the larger cassette I had to go with a Long Cage derailleur and so far I am really happy with the setup.

uncle uncle

What chainring (like, how many teeth) did you go with that? What is the terrain like where you ride? Our gravel roads here are pretty flat to mostly rolling hills; no big inclines where I'd have to drop it into a long time granny gearing effort. In fact, wind plays more of a spoiler here. Road surfaces are mostly packed here on fringes of the big city and it's accompanying urban sprawl.

uncle uncle

So... has the 40 been an okay compromise? I'll take the indexing advise under consideration... my gravel experience is pretty limited. When I've been on it, it's been an enjoyable experience. I'm hoping that a gravel bike will give me the opportunity to get out on a bike more often, as suitable roads and bike paths are getting evermore scarce around my parts... I'll take you up on the messaging, if/when I have more specifics to discuss.

Bianchigirll 

Ok just curious

Not at all, in fact sometimes the wackier the idea the more we encourage it.

dscoduc

the chainring is a 42T Absolute Black oval ring. I am in San Diego so there are occasional hills that I have to climb where the 42T seemed really attractive. I did consider a 11-40T but found a local supply that had the 11-42T instead. If I didn’t have any major hills then the 11-36T would have been more than enough.

rosefarts

A few things to address.

I'm not too serious about riding but I am most serious about gravel. It doesn't make me fast but I've certainly logged the miles and hit some fun stuff.

A steel gravel bike with steel fork is pretty limited to a 21.5 to 22lb build. Unless you go nuts with carbon tubulars and other craziness that really wouldn't suit a vintage steel build.

With 700x38 I do rub my toe at very low speeds, think rocky singletrack climbs. It's annoying. I bet most vintage bikes are like that.

​​​​​​I highly recommend a square taper bb. Getting the right chain line is going to be some guesswork and fiddling.

A 126 frame should fit a 130 road hub, and that will easily take a 10sp cassette.

40t up front and 11-42 in the rear gives a bike that can climb ok down to about 4mph and able to go 25-26 before it makes more sense to just tuck.

If I get more serious about racing, I will use a double 46/30 and 11-32. Or 44x11-46 on 12 speeds.

Well set up cantis and salmon pads stop very well. Equivalent to mechanical discs.

nayr497

I have been riding a 1x10 drivetrain on my commuter for about three years now. Everything was running smoothly and quietly, but the chain was shot, so I replaced it. Chain and 36-t cassette were swapped about a year ago. Put on a new chain, same cassette, and I'm getting an awful grinding noise, almost like when you're on a double chainring up front and the chain is rubbing the FD cage.

Cassette looks fine, chain is new, formerly no noise. Bike shop guys think it could be a worn chainring. I guess after three years of commuting 15 miles a day ~ 5 days a week could do that. It's a SRAM Rival crankset I bought new with a SRAM X-Sync 11-sp 42 tooth chainring.

Not the end of the world, as I've wanted a bit lower gearing and the RD only will accommodate up to an 11x36.

Two things, I guess:
1) probably best to go with a narrow-wide chainring, I suppose? I'd rather not add a chain keeper, whole point of the 1x10 was fewer parts.

2) Why are single chainrings of Al not cheap? Race Face rings are like $65 USD for a 110bcd 5 bolt ring. I paid $75 for the entire SRAM crankset, arms + rings. Along these lines...this is a reliable commuter I built up, but nothing fancy. I'm thinking a generic chainring wouldn't be a big deal.

Any input appreciated, thanks! Gotta cure this noise, it is driving me crazy. Of course, I'll likely need to shorten the new Shimano chain and need a master link, which are $10, and the chain was $15 at the shop. Ugh. Nearly a toss up to just buy a whole new chain, though this one is 2 weeks old. I'm pretty sure Shimano does not advise pushing and re-using the master pin.

Reynolds 531 

I would add this question to the "bicycle mechanics" forum.

But it is very easy to thread a Sram RD the wrong way, and perhaps even a bike shop could overlook it.
Otherwise, try a different front chainring.

nayr497

Thanks for the reply. I was trying to avoid starting a new thread.

Yeah, I have checked out the chain routing on the RD and made sure it is as it should be. Front of top jockey wheel, around back of the guide "tooth" between the jockey plates, around the back of the lower jockey wheel. And the chain is the proper length too.

Yeah...I'm going to try a different front ring. Shop lent me one to try, since I know them pretty well. Only problem is that it's a 34 (vs. the current 42) so I hope the 2" of extra chain won't make it so long the sounds goes away because of a slack chain.

Thanks again for the ideas!!

SamSpade1941 

I am in the process of doing a C&V Rock Hopper 1x10 as we speak . Still need to order a set of bars / stem Of course I used a purpose built crank and derailleur for the job

SamSpade1941 

Why arent you using a steel chain ring ? it will be cheaper and more durable especially if you are commuting. I commute daily and there's a lot of grime , dirt and trash on the streets . If you do not regularly clean , inspect and lube you can wear parts out fast.

nayr497

Hey Sam,

I've looked at both steel and Al replacement rings. I *think* the original SRAM Rival ring is probably Al, I'd guess. Crankset, RD, cassette, chain all new and 1x10/11 specific. Has worked well for three years, just started making this noise when I replaced a worn chain. I built the bike up with all new parts (minus wheels that I had, saddle, etc.)

Wow, your project looks awesome already! Nice bike!!!

SamSpade1941 

Gotcha

You did not happen to have an accident did you ? I wrecked over Independence day and had some issues after that with noise which was ultimately attributed to a little misalignment in my derailleur hanger