My Vintage Trek 400-input?
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My Vintage Trek 400-input?
Hey guys.
I'm a newb to bicycling. I just started last summer when I bought my first Road Bike. I bought this trek 400 off a friend's dad. I just finished my first year of college. I knew I was going to need a bike for school so thats why I bought it. I bought it for 35 bucks. Later I found out it was really QUITE the steal. Probably the best 35 dollar investment of my LIFE.
I've been really getting into riding and I was thinking of some possible upgrades to my bike. It's currently a 12 speed. Do you guys suggest upgrading to an maybe an 18 speed? I'm just kind of looking for ideas. I'd like to dabble a little in making it an even more sweeter bike. If you guys have any ideas as to good things to upgrade lemme know.
Some other questions. I apologize if I'm a total newb please bare with me.
Would you guys suggest upgrading to bar end shifters instead of the downtubes?
If I wanted to get some different road handle bars (wider) would I have to get a threadless heatset in order to have more options?
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0122.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0114.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0115.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0117.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0118.jpg
Sorry about the links...I cant seem to upload them...too big
I'm a newb to bicycling. I just started last summer when I bought my first Road Bike. I bought this trek 400 off a friend's dad. I just finished my first year of college. I knew I was going to need a bike for school so thats why I bought it. I bought it for 35 bucks. Later I found out it was really QUITE the steal. Probably the best 35 dollar investment of my LIFE.
I've been really getting into riding and I was thinking of some possible upgrades to my bike. It's currently a 12 speed. Do you guys suggest upgrading to an maybe an 18 speed? I'm just kind of looking for ideas. I'd like to dabble a little in making it an even more sweeter bike. If you guys have any ideas as to good things to upgrade lemme know.
Some other questions. I apologize if I'm a total newb please bare with me.
Would you guys suggest upgrading to bar end shifters instead of the downtubes?
If I wanted to get some different road handle bars (wider) would I have to get a threadless heatset in order to have more options?
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0122.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0114.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0115.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0117.jpg
https://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...8/DSCN0118.jpg
Sorry about the links...I cant seem to upload them...too big
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I have a 1987 Trek 400 and I love it. With lots of wrenching help from Amnomad, I changed out the double crank for a Sugino triple because I wanted some lower gears. I picked the Sugino XD2-600T with 48-36-26 chainrings. This did make it necessary to change the front and rear derailleurs to ones that had originally been on an old mountain bike. Mountain LX front and Deore DX rear. I was going to put on bar end shifters but changed my mind because the frame was small and I was worried that I would be hitting the bar end shifters with my knees and causing misshifts (this happens with another bike of mine). Instead, Amnomad had a nice pair of high quality, ratcheting stem shifters that he had taken off of one of his bikes that I used on mine, along with a Technomic stem. I know that stem shifters are not well thought of, but I've been riding the bike and I like them. Bar ends will work also. You might be able to buy the bar end adapter pods from Rivendell and use them with your downtube shifters. As for the handlebars and stem, there shouldn't be any reason why you need to change your fork or headset. I didn't have to and I changed the stem to a Technomic and the bars to a different set..Anyway, the Trek 400 has a Reynolds 531 frame and is a very nice bike which is worth upgrading. Coincidently, I got mine for $35 also, from a thrift shop. Enjoy!
Maureen
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Here is one of your pics.
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Well done. My first roadie is an 85 Trek 400. Not nearly as classic as your - True Temper steel instead of 531 but it's been an extreeeemely dependable ride nonetheless. Personally, I love downtube shifters and think bar-ends look really flimsy and detract from the form of the bike - but I'm a design chump, so...
If you want wider handlebars, you don't need threadless (well, how wide we talking here?). I have several sets of too-wide bars that are nice. I'm sure you could rustle up a trade for a better width.
Good luck and have a good time!
If you want wider handlebars, you don't need threadless (well, how wide we talking here?). I have several sets of too-wide bars that are nice. I'm sure you could rustle up a trade for a better width.
Good luck and have a good time!
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Wow! that really is a steal.
If I were looking to upgrade, I might go for some dual pivot brakes and aero brake levers. These can often be found on ebay for a few dollars and you can get a nice brand new set of levers, cables and brakes for $40. I always feel more secure riding with modern brakes and like the cleaner look better too.
If you want bar end shifters, you can order shifter pods that will allow you to move your current shifters up to the bar ends, plus you will need new cables and down tube cable stops. Assuming you do the work yourself, this will probably be about a $40 job. Personally, I wouldn't bother. I have both bar ends and dt shifters and don't thin the bar ends are much better, but YMMV.
If you have a bike co-op in your area, you will find no shortage of triple MTB cranks and long cage derailers to upgrade with. I have a 6 speed Deore drivetrain on one of my bikes and it shifts like a dream.
Keep us updated with lots of pictures!
If I were looking to upgrade, I might go for some dual pivot brakes and aero brake levers. These can often be found on ebay for a few dollars and you can get a nice brand new set of levers, cables and brakes for $40. I always feel more secure riding with modern brakes and like the cleaner look better too.
If you want bar end shifters, you can order shifter pods that will allow you to move your current shifters up to the bar ends, plus you will need new cables and down tube cable stops. Assuming you do the work yourself, this will probably be about a $40 job. Personally, I wouldn't bother. I have both bar ends and dt shifters and don't thin the bar ends are much better, but YMMV.
If you have a bike co-op in your area, you will find no shortage of triple MTB cranks and long cage derailers to upgrade with. I have a 6 speed Deore drivetrain on one of my bikes and it shifts like a dream.
Keep us updated with lots of pictures!
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I forgot to mention that I also upgraded the brake levers to Tektro aero brakes levers and also a set of in-line brake levers from Performance. The actual brake arms and shoes are the original ones, though I'm thinking of changing the shoes to a set of Kool-Stop. I'll try to take some pictures, but I need to figure out how to upload them.
Maureen
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is definitely a good thing on a Trek. True Temper and 531 are similar - different
manufactures. This might help a little.
https://www.desperadocycles.com/The_L...per_Tubing.htm
https://www.desperadocycles.com/TrueTemperProperties.gif
EDIT: Actually this is a little better. I believe this table address modern versions of the materials, but
you sort of get the idea.
https://www.pipedreamcycles.com/Tubing%20Comparisons.pdf
Last edited by bikemore; 05-19-08 at 10:44 AM.
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I believe your bike is a 1983 model. It is made of Tange mangalloy steel, and is manufactured in Japan, painted and assembled in US. I had one of these not too long ago. They are nice, but not as nice as the US built 531 frames.
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I forgot to mention that I also upgraded the brake levers to Tektro aero brakes levers and also a set of in-line brake levers from Performance. The actual brake arms and shoes are the original ones, though I'm thinking of changing the shoes to a set of Kool-Stop. I'll try to take some pictures, but I need to figure out how to upload them.
Maureen
Maureen
Assuming you already have the pics on your computer, and have a photobucket account, you can copy the codes for the pictures into the box where you type, as long as they have an [IMG ] [/IMG] code around the links.
then paste into the box here
also, Kool stop's would be a worthwhile improvement IMO
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i jam my thumbs up and back into the tubes. this way i can point my fingers straight out in front to split the wind and attain an even more aero profile, and the usual fixed gear - zen - connectedness feeling through the drivetrain is multiplied ten fold because my thumbs become one with the tubing.
https://flickr.com/groups/dawes_galaxy/
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Thanks for the ideas guys
Question. Aren't the brake levers on my bike already Aero Brakes? Or are you guys suggesting I upgrade to newer ones?
The kool stop brakes actually look like a great upgrade.
I think I'm going to ditch the idea of Bar End shifters. It was just an idea and I can see problems.
If I do happen to upgrade to a triple crank would I need a new Front Derailluer?
Question. Aren't the brake levers on my bike already Aero Brakes? Or are you guys suggesting I upgrade to newer ones?
The kool stop brakes actually look like a great upgrade.
I think I'm going to ditch the idea of Bar End shifters. It was just an idea and I can see problems.
If I do happen to upgrade to a triple crank would I need a new Front Derailluer?
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oh nvm...those brake cables coming out of the top of my current brake levers looks kind funny now that I look at them.
I can see why you guys suggested an upgrade.
I can see why you guys suggested an upgrade.
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If you decide to put a triple on there, you may want to try the current front derailer and see if it works before trying to swap it. Some older double derailers handle triples just fine.
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I was thinking of touring long distances on my bike
So I dunno if I'll need a triple crank to be honest. I figured it might be a good idea
So I dunno if I'll need a triple crank to be honest. I figured it might be a good idea
#16
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Maybe you'd like a set of fenders, since you're thinking of touring?
Maybe a good set of tires? My favorites are a very classic looking yet tough Panaracer Pasela Tourgard, which come in a variety of 27" and 700c widths. They wouldn't look out of place on your ride.
I think you'd probably like some new cork handlebar tape.
Honestly these are just finishing touches. You have a very respectable ride there.
Maybe a good set of tires? My favorites are a very classic looking yet tough Panaracer Pasela Tourgard, which come in a variety of 27" and 700c widths. They wouldn't look out of place on your ride.
I think you'd probably like some new cork handlebar tape.
Honestly these are just finishing touches. You have a very respectable ride there.
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First of all, that bike is set up fine for riding around town. If you want to tour, and you have hills, sure, go for the triple chainwheels. Upgrades cost money, but if you don't mind that, check out these fenders.
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How can you tell if the stem is too long for you?
I was riding today back home from work and I was thinking about it. When I rest my hands on the top ontop the brake levers my arms are almost completely straight. Is this a sign my stem is too big? Should I just bend forward more?
Oh and I forgot to make this clear....I'm 5'9. I believe the frame of this bike is 58cm-60cm. When I stand over it my crotch is pretty much resting on the bar(I know this is dangerous if i were to ever get in an accident...but I didnt have the luxury of choosing the size frame)
So yeah...what you guys think? I dont know the size of my stem. I know i have a threaded headset(i assume all treks from the time are threaded). how do i measure the stem and figure out a good size for myself?
I was riding today back home from work and I was thinking about it. When I rest my hands on the top ontop the brake levers my arms are almost completely straight. Is this a sign my stem is too big? Should I just bend forward more?
Oh and I forgot to make this clear....I'm 5'9. I believe the frame of this bike is 58cm-60cm. When I stand over it my crotch is pretty much resting on the bar(I know this is dangerous if i were to ever get in an accident...but I didnt have the luxury of choosing the size frame)
So yeah...what you guys think? I dont know the size of my stem. I know i have a threaded headset(i assume all treks from the time are threaded). how do i measure the stem and figure out a good size for myself?
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I've been in a few accidents, and I never ended up standing on the ground straddling my bike. If I somehow did end up straddling the top tube in an accident, and it were somehow propelled at my crotch, I don't think an inch or two of clearance would save me.
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I'm 5' 8" and while I am not too particular on size, I tend to stick to a 54. I
flipped a 59cm bike recently and it was difficult to test ride comfortably. It is
my guess (what might happen in an accident is not really the issue) the bike
is a at least 4cm too big, although your mileage may vary. I think you want
at least want the opportunity to try something a little smaller before you start
thinking about putting a lot of effort into it.
flipped a 59cm bike recently and it was difficult to test ride comfortably. It is
my guess (what might happen in an accident is not really the issue) the bike
is a at least 4cm too big, although your mileage may vary. I think you want
at least want the opportunity to try something a little smaller before you start
thinking about putting a lot of effort into it.
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It doesnt need much effort apparently lol.
I mean if i upgrade a few things theres no reason I couldnt sell it for at least 150(and I bought it for 35 bucks lol)
I really am loving the bike though. And I can ride it fine. I'd buy a bike first before parting with it.
Any input on the stem?
I mean if i upgrade a few things theres no reason I couldnt sell it for at least 150(and I bought it for 35 bucks lol)
I really am loving the bike though. And I can ride it fine. I'd buy a bike first before parting with it.
Any input on the stem?
#22
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"Proper" sizing is something that has evolved over the years. You might want to read this. If the bike feels comfortable to you, don't worry about it.
Re: the brake lever upgrade - maybe someone already mentioned this and I missed it. As for the cable housing coming up out of the levers, that's a pretty classic look, and lots of people wouldn't have it otherwise on their vintage bikes. That being said, the main advantage to switching to aero levers is that they have a decided mechanical advantage over the levers you have now, ie. you can stop faster.
Nice bike, btw. Glad you're enjoying it.
Re: the brake lever upgrade - maybe someone already mentioned this and I missed it. As for the cable housing coming up out of the levers, that's a pretty classic look, and lots of people wouldn't have it otherwise on their vintage bikes. That being said, the main advantage to switching to aero levers is that they have a decided mechanical advantage over the levers you have now, ie. you can stop faster.
Nice bike, btw. Glad you're enjoying it.