Delwis

Looks like pretty close to 22lbs even. With the Saint pedals. (22" Frame)

Delwis

Thanks sh00k! I plan to ride every chance I get. The short ride I had yesterday was really nice and smooth.

Delwis

Got the lights on tonight (they are bright!) and adjusted the shifters and brake levers. Still need to fine tune the front derailleur I think, maybe not. I'll have to do some riding for that. After the pictures, I raised the tail light up a little so it doesn't cover up the Bontrager logo.

sh00k

gorgeous bike, very photogenic. as for the front derailleur, does it shift improperly or do you have chain rub?

i saw a diagram similar to this one that i am posting below (there are tons out there) and this helped me a lot with issues i thought i was having with my deraileurs. after learning this, i feel that i am more in control of the bike as i ride and have less "surprises" when i need to shift.

for what it's worth

Delwis

Thanks for the compliments sh00k. And thanks for the diagram. Yeah, I knew not to run total opposing rings but, maybe not even the second rings. I only had rub when I got too far opposed tonight on a test ride. My old three ring wasn't that bad. The other problem is the 105 out back. It doesn't like to drop rings and seems to need a double click or light pedaling. Climbs the rings fine. I'm hoping it will break in a little. I've heard the rear cassette may need a little wear.

Delwis

Well, it looked like the front derailleur was just a tad outboard. I used the barrel to move it back and forth and think I found a good spot. Next ride will tell. Been watching videos on how to adjust rear. But during my testing she worked fine. I think she needs a break in with rider on board.

Scooty Puff Jr

You shouldn’t need to “break in” anything, it should shift perfectly from day one, though you might get a little cable stretch after a few months of riding, if not bring it back to the LBS and have them adjust it. I have over 3000 miles on my S6, and I’ve only had to adjust the rear derailleur once, and that was one quarter turn of the barrel adjuster. I’ve never used the barrel adjuster on the front derailleur on any of my bikes, but then maybe I’ve just been lucky.

I run my FXS6 on the opposing chain rings once in a while with no issues or rubbing. The front derailleur has a trim setting that keeps the chain from rubbing, a half click of the shifter is all it takes, works well. I’ve changed my gearing front and rear, 46/36 front and 12/25 rear, so that may help a bit. Though my bike is based on the Domane frame, so there could be a difference from the 2018 model.

Delwis

Thanks Scooty. My LBS is an hour away. I do have free adjustments for two years and a thorough going over during the first year. I think it's gonna be okay. It wasn't really too bad. Just a little clicking up front (which I think is gone) and a hesitant chain drop out back (I'll have straight by the weekend). I'd rather do some minor adjustments than take her in right now. I will take her in for sure this summer for adjustments and bleed the brake lines (or have Shimano brakes installed) after a few months of riding.

Lt Stonez

Great bike! change to some decent 25 or 28mm tyres and save a pound, 32mm on that bike is just stupid! You have a race bike there and it deserves good tyres!
Ride on

dueWest

I've learned this as well. Basically, if I hear my front derailleur being rubbed, I need to adjust the position slightly. Nice ride!

Scooty Puff Jr

I agree, 25 or 28s would be better suited, though technically the 2018 FXS6 isn’t a “road bike”, the geometry is different from the 2017 Domane road bike frame based version. Trek decided to make a true flatbar fitness bike frame for 2018 to better compete with Giant and Specialized fitness models. Some think they’re better, some don’t, it just depends on the riders wants and needs, either way still a nice bike.

Scooty Puff Jr

You shouldn’t need to even think about bleeding the brakes for at least a couple years if not longer, they no longer use DOT brake fluid you would use in a car that absorbs moisture over time, the mineral oil they use now is much better at resisting moisture and it won’t eat your paint.

Is their something wrong with the Tektro brakes, wondering why you would want to “upgrade” to Shimano brakes ? I don’t have them on my bike, mine came with Shimano hydraulic “425s”, they’re a step above entry level hydraulic brakes and they work just fine, no noise or fade, and very responsive for organic pads. I know the Tektro brakes on your bike are a new design, just curious what you think of them, and they do need a couple weeks of “bedding in” the pads, and should get better as you use them.

Delwis

Thanks for the info on the brake fluid. I just naturally assumed that they would need regular bleeding.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the Tektro brakes that I can tell right now. They are quiet and work just fine. I just was ticked off when Trek swapped out the Shimanos for '18. I may just keep them but I still might want all Shimano components. I'm kind of OCD when it comes to cars and bikes.

Just went for a few mile ride. It was great! 43F with a very fine mist/fog. The shifting was fine, the brakes were fine and the new lights are great. I haven't rode since October and that was on a cushy comfort bike (Trek 7300). But the 6 is pretty comfortable and much faster. I will be out on her every chance I get.

badger1

Incorrect. 32mm tires are not "stupid", unless you think that -- all else being equal (tire construction/quality) -- having a tire with higher rolling resistance is "stupid".

There's very little doubt left about this. Given the same tire -- let's say, something like a Conti GP4000II -- rolling resistance under real-world conditions will increase as the width decreases.

So if the spectrum is 25 > 32, the highest r/r will be the 25s, lowest the 32s.

Yes, the weight of the 32s will be marginally higher. That may or may not matter, but the weight difference is not significant enough to trump rolling resistance.

Trek chose wisely: 32mm tires are a very sensible choice for this particular bicycle and its rather obvious intended usage.

Lt Stonez

Tyres that trek and specialized put on there bike when they sell you the bike new is heavy, I thought everybody did knew that! And why don’t the pros use 32mm tyres if they are so freakin good.

Delwis

Thanks! That's about as thin as I want to go right now. I'm an old man you know. LOL I will be upgrading wheels and tires sometime. Maybe do 28's then. IDK.

Delwis

Got my new air pump today. My old pump was pretty shabby. Topeak Joe Blow Pro with a built in air release. Pretty cool. I hope to test out these Slime tubes someday. Hopefully, a review of those is way down the line.

ColonelSanders

Lovely looking bike and you have acquired some great accessories too.

Delwis

Thank you Colonel! I am very happy.

Scooty Puff Jr

What badger1 is saying is the new 2018 FXS6 is more of the type of bike to run wider tires, it’s mainly designed to be ridden on paved surfaces but can also handle the occasional hard packed trail. While I agree that 25 or 28s would be better suited for his bike, there’s nothing wrong with running 32s. The 2018 FXS6 is a brand new design that mixes road type bikes and hybrid “upright” bikes together to make a fast flatbar bike. Where the 2017 FXS6 is based on the Domane road frame bike, and that bike is basically a Domane road bike with flatbars that came with 25s from Trek. I own a 2017 S6 and there’s no way I would ride that bike more than a few feet off of a paved surface.

Scooty Puff Jr

I just saw that Topeak air pump at the LBS the other day, I believe the “air release” system is for inflating tubeless tires that can be a pain to get the beads to seat. Shouldn’t need to use it on tires with tubes, but it is a really cool feature.

badger1

Rotating weight is a consideration, yes. The difference in weight between a 23 or 25 tire on the one hand, and a 32 of the same tire is, however, negligible, and is swamped by the advantages gained in both rolling resistance and reduced 'suspension losses' (look it up) caused by the fact that the wider tire can be run at lower pressures.

Further, what the "pros" do is of no consequence to me, you, or anyone else here on Bike Forums.

Lt Stonez

Further, what the "pros" do is of no consequence to me, you, or anyone else here on Bike Forums.[/QUOTE]

And the point is? Don’t you think they and there mechanics know things better than you, me and mostly anyone else here on bike forum?

badger1

And the point is? Don’t you think they and there mechanics know things better than you, me and mostly anyone else here on bike forum?[/QUOTE]

The point is ... of course they do, when it comes to setting up a bicycle, within UCI rules, to be ridden as fast as humanly possible -- in a large peloton, over closed courses, on good roads (mostly) -- by athletes in their twenties and thirties who are, for most part, outliers even absent training when it comes to things like oxygen transfer, power-to-weight ratio, flexibility, and so on.

So what? What has that to do with you or me? Do you use drop bars on your Sirrus? Why not -- the pros do, shouldn't you? Do you size your bike frame down and ride with 10++ cms. of saddle-to-bar drop and a 120 to 140mm stem?

By the way, the pros have their traditions too, many of which make no sense from a technical point of view -- one of the reasons the transition from rim to disc brakes is taking so long.

Finally, in case you hadn't noticed, the move toward 'wider' tires has taken hold in the pro peloton as well. 25s are now very common, as opposed to 23 and narrower. When it comes to courses like Paris-Roubaix, 27/28s, even up to 32s, are becoming increasingly common.

Lt Stonez

The point is ... of course they do, when it comes to setting up a bicycle, within UCI rules, to be ridden as fast as humanly possible -- in a large peloton, over closed courses, on good roads (mostly) -- by athletes in their twenties and thirties who are, for most part, outliers even absent training when it comes to things like oxygen transfer, power-to-weight ratio, flexibility, and so on.

So what? What has that to do with you or me? Do you use drop bars on your Sirrus? Why not -- the pros do, shouldn't you? Do you size your bike frame down and ride with 10++ cms. of saddle-to-bar drop and a 120 to 140mm stem?

By the way, the pros have their traditions too, many of which make no sense from a technical point of view -- one of the reasons the transition from rim to disc brakes is taking so long.

Finally, in case you hadn't noticed, the move toward 'wider' tires has taken hold in the pro peloton as well. 25s are now very common, as opposed to 23 and narrower. When it comes to courses like Paris-Roubaix, 27/28s, even up to 32s, are becoming increasingly common. [/QUOTE]

You have right in one thing! - what has this to do with you and me? Nothing!!
I have only said that he can drop a pound off weight by changing from heavy 32mm bad Bontrager tiers to 25/28mm Conti GP4K2 tyers.