lurch0038

I have been riding my DT and that bike is a beast for touring but when not hauling gear or touring it is as sluggish as a sherman tank and cannot get out of its own way. I love the frame as it fits me perfectly and considering purchasing another one as a non touring bike but has anyone changed the gearing and other components to give it more speed to be used as a non touring bike? On a small recent tour the DT rode actually better loaded than it does unloaded.....is that normal?

gandrimp

Character traits of a Disc Trucker: beast, sluggish, hauls heavy loads like know other.

Its normal.

phughes

I ride mine every day and love it. Are you running the same tire pressure as you do when loaded? It is definitely made to carry a load, but I am happy with mine without a load. I do keep my bags on though, but they don't really qualify as "loaded."

lurch0038

Same pressure at all times.

phughes

I run lower pressure when it isn't loaded. It would ride like a buckboard if I did't

saddlesores

instead of a new bike, although that's a good thing, why not just buy a second
set of lighter wheels/tires?

psy

I think I've read the rear triangle on truckers is straight gauge non butted tubing, which would be stiff and great for hauling heavy loads, but ad that tubing to long chai stays and I imagine the ride wouldn't exactly be responsive or lively no matter what you change.

DropBarFan

Trucker frame is a bit heavy but touring components are also usually not ultra-light either. First speed-boosting option to buy light wheels w/old saw about 1 oz on wheels worth 2 in the rest. One set of wheels for touring/rougher riding & a light set for light load and/or speedier riding, similar to racers having separate training/racing wheels. & high-pressure tires go w/the light wheels. Trucker has relaxed enough ride so that high-pressure tires would be tolerable on smoother surfaces.

One could change out other components for CF/titanium or whatnot, but this seems to be mostly much $$ for little weight saving.

imi

Have you tried taking everything off that you may not need when not touring? e.g Handlebag mount, bottle cages, fenders, kickstand, racks, pump, lights, bell... (ok some of this you might need at times)

Then put some nifty light wheels with narrow slick tires on pumped hard...
Do you have a Brooks saddle on the DT. They weigh a ton, neh?

indyfabz

I regularly use my standard LHT for transportation. The gearing has nothing to do with how fast the bike is. (Are you telling us you regularly spin out of your highest gear?) It's the geometry and the fact that it's heavy. I can get a little more zip out of it with narrower tires, but that is about it. if you want something faster and more responsive, buy a bike that is designed and built to be faster and more responsive.

veganbikes

I have a DT and it isn't a fast bike in the least but it wasn't meant to be. It is a fully loaded touring bike with all the basic features one might want in a tourer. My DT clocks in about 33lbs unloaded but then again it is a 4130 chromo touring bike with racks and bottle cages and all of that fine stuff. I picked up a fixed gear and a vintage road bike for going real fast and the DT is really for touring and longer rides or off roading or commuting with panniers. I know you can find some decent vintage road machines with good parts for reasonable prices on CL.

mstateglfr 

If you are looking to buy another bike so you can ride faster when not loaded, look for something besides the very bike you say is sluggish.

lurch0038

I have fast bikes but because they cannot handle my shrek sized frame (6'6'' and ~330lbs)they are all worn down. I am not fat but even at the height of my fitness I was still ~265lbs. I usually get a year and a half out of a bike before it starts to fall apart but I have had the DT for over 2 years and it is as solid as the day I bought it. I guess I was looking to have the reliability of the DT with some faster performance. I realize that it may not be possible with the DT and I am ok with that because the DT is one hell of a bike!

pdlamb

+1

fietsbob

N+1, is always suggested.. want light, Zippy?, buy an Additional Bike. .

I haul groceries in my panniers , between tours.. a heavy load itself.

Leebo

Thought about a cross check?

jonc123

I thought my trucker was pretty light and fast. My previous bike was an aluminum framed Trek 7.2 which was heavier so I was real happy when I lifted the stock bike off the floor at the bike shop; always heard they were heavy. I guess it depends on your perspective...all the bikes I have had in the past were more heavy.

I'm afraid to weigh it now, front rack, rear rack, headlight, tailight, computer, bell, 2 bottle cages, usually 2 bottles (48 Oz.), mirror, seat from England made in Italy. My tires weigh 4 pounds by themselves! Be very afraid of the scales.

It's my only bike and I really like it. I added lighting for evening grocery store runs...at least it's all uphill to the store for an easy return home.

djb

from your size/weight and past bike experience, it certainly doesnt sound like you can make a real difference. Lighter wheels or whatever are just not going to either hold up, or make that much of a diff considering the cost, just because they still have to be strong enough to survive a rider of your weight.
I dunno, spend a $1000 or something on a set of wheels that are a pound or two or whatever lighter--in the big scheme of things, not going to make a hell of a lot of diff, and a good amount of money spent...

corrado33

A straggler if he wants disks. But most surly bikes are (relatively) heavy, so you're not really getting anything different.

lurch0038

Exactly...I have a number of fishing rods for specific applications and will take the same approach with bicycles. I bought the DT to hold up against the abuse of my weight and to eventually tour so if I need to go for a exercise run I will buy a bike that can do just that.

Tourist in MSN

I got a second set of wheels, put some skinny slick supple high pressure tires on it and it feels much faster. I used the same eight speed 11/32 cassette on both wheels, but you could put on a cassette with higher gears if you are not touring. My lighter weight wheels have pretty cheap components and hubs but that does not impair performance. Just remember if you do this, you need the 135mm hub spacing.

I do not re-adjust my fenders, so with skinny tires there is a lot of clearance between fenders and tires. But it looks fine to me.

***

Oops. I wrote the above before I saw your 330 lb weight. Maybe just lighter supple tires on your heavy rims would be best.

lurch0038

I replaced the original wheels with some 48 spoke Velocity Chukkers but still have the original wheels. DUH! I will do a comparison test.

LeeG

At 330lbs wanting a zippy bike that doesn't wear out sounds like a custom frame. I doubt the weight of the LHT frame or wheels is the issue but the geometry. I'd suggest a Comotion.

Tourist in MSN

Maybe ask your question here:

Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)

djb

here is another suggestion, when not touring, try a much tighter cassette. Stock LHTs come with 9 speed 11-34s I think, so try a 12-27, my fav 9 speed cassette and coming from a 11-32, it certainly changes how your bike rides from a shifting cadence pt of view. You might like it but of course it depends on how much you regularly use the lower gears.