jgwilliams

I've got two road bikes, both 22" frames, which I've just been measuring up. My regular commute, a 1993 653 frame, has a 21½" top tube, The other, a 531 frameset dating back to around 1974, has a 22½" top tube. When I was young I used to love the spread out feel of that long top tube but I find now I'm more comfortable with the later one. It's interesting how the design has changed in many ways - the older one is altogether longer with much greater clearance between the wheel and the frame, even allowing that it was designed for 27" wheels rather than the 700c set that it's now running with, and the fork curves out further as well.

Anyhow, my question is this: I'm planning to get the newer bike re-enameled so it's going to be off the road for a while. What would you do to make the older one fit me better? I guess I could move the saddle forward a bit. Would you put a shorter stem on as well, or is that a step too far?

Metieval

Saddle adjustment is all about cleat/knee/pedal relationships. To change your bike fit beyond that, use different bars/stems/quills.

caloso

I would set up the saddle first. Don't scoot it up for the sake of scooting it up, just set it up so it fits. Then get the appropriate length stem.

ptempel

I agree with the others. Saddle fore/aft and up/down positions focus on the legs. Your only options for top tube length are the stem, bar or frame. I have a longer torso so would prefer the longer top tube. For example, if I wanted a 120mm stem, then I know I'd need a 56.5cm top tube length (or something close to it) like my Ridley has. The Orbea is a bigger frame so I had to go to a 110mm stem.

jgwilliams

Indeed. I assume, though, that at least part of that longer top tube is because the frame angle is different. It certainly looks a bit different but I don't have the means to measure it with any degree of accuracy.