Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Bottom bracket "alignment" question

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Bottom bracket "alignment" question

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-08-19, 12:27 AM
  #1  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bottom bracket "alignment" question

Hello!

I've been hearing a clicking noise with a frequency comparable to my pedalling frequency. It's been driving me mad for a week now.

Thinking it was the seat, I removed the seat post, greased, etc., but the noise persisted.

I took a look at the bottom bracket (Shimano BB51) and noted it has a 2-3 mm play: I can push the crankset and the pedal at the other end will come out by 2-3 mm...

Since I am new to the forum I cannot yet post pictures, so I've had to upload it here imgur.com/a/9MnqA49 (the forum also does not allow to post URLs until one has 10 posts......)

Is the play room due to some washer/ring which vaporized or broke and fell? Is it a matter of tightening? If so, what? Should I just get a new BB51 and install it?

I am new to bike repairs, but am willing to spend the time and a bit of cash to get the material+tools and to learn (and I have another bike I can use while I horse around with this one). Any hints will be most welcome!

Many thanks in advance!

PS: a decent clean-up is long overdue....
iozhik is offline  
Old 06-08-19, 12:44 AM
  #2  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
scratch that, I'm an idiot. Could get rid of the 2-3 mm play by loosening the 5mm allen head screws in the pedals, pushing the pedal in, and tightening them again.... Will now go for a ride to the village cafe for breakfast and keep my fingers crossed to see whether the clicking noises vanished....
iozhik is offline  
Old 06-08-19, 02:07 PM
  #3  
seedsbelize 
smelling the roses
 
seedsbelize's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tixkokob, Yucatán, México
Posts: 15,320

Bikes: 79 Trek 930, 80 Trek 414, 84 Schwinn Letour Luxe (coupled), 92 Schwinn Paramount PDG 5

Mentioned: 104 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7081 Post(s)
Liked 901 Times in 612 Posts
Welcome to the idiot's club. EVERY time I build a bike, I invariably cable the brakes backward. The most recent one I caught almost immediately, so some progress is being made. One time I even mounted both crank arms in the same plane. Noticed it on the attempted test ride.
__________________
Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
Auto-pause is a honey-tongued devil whispering sweet lies in your ear.


seedsbelize is offline  
Old 06-09-19, 03:37 PM
  #4  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,073

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4201 Post(s)
Liked 3,857 Times in 2,305 Posts
Shimano's UN-51 BB version is rather old, it could be that the bearings are just wearing away. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 06-09-19, 07:09 PM
  #5  
lukedunk
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 8

Bikes: 2017 Yeti SB5, 2017 Ridley X-Night

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by seedsbelize
Welcome to the idiot's club. EVERY time I build a bike, I invariably cable the brakes backward. The most recent one I caught almost immediately, so some progress is being made. One time I even mounted both crank arms in the same plane. Noticed it on the attempted test ride.
That is hilarious and made my day.
lukedunk is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 01:56 AM
  #6  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by seedsbelize
Welcome to the idiot's club. EVERY time I build a bike, I invariably cable the brakes backward. The most recent one I caught almost immediately, so some progress is being made. One time I even mounted both crank arms in the same plane. Noticed it on the attempted test ride.
This was a refreshing read. Idiots of the world, unite!

In the end the click went away, but lucky as I am, and for the first time ever, I went out and broke a spoke. So this month I'm learning quite a bit of bike maintenance by force.
iozhik is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 01:58 AM
  #7  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
Shimano's UN-51 BB version is rather old, it could be that the bearings are just wearing away. Andy
Thanks for the feedback! I gathered from a well-intended google search that the BB52 is the successor.

If the noise comes back and is clearly identifiable with the bottom bracket, I guess that's the one I'll have to aim for (?)
iozhik is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 04:35 AM
  #8  
Trevtassie
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936

Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times in 640 Posts
Originally Posted by iozhik
Thanks for the feedback! I gathered from a well-intended google search that the BB52 is the successor.

If the noise comes back and is clearly identifiable with the bottom bracket, I guess that's the one I'll have to aim for (?)
UN55 or UN26
Trevtassie is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 04:57 AM
  #9  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Trevtassie
UN55 or UN26
Superb! Thank you very much.

Heck, I'm looking forward to reaching the stage where I can do my own bike maintenance (and am more than happy to pay the price to get there).

Cheers from rainy central Europe!
iozhik is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 05:35 AM
  #10  
Metaluna
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 1,221

Bikes: Niner RLT 9 RDO, Gunnar Sport, Soma Saga, Workswell WCBR-146

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 19 Posts
Originally Posted by iozhik
Superb! Thank you very much.

Heck, I'm looking forward to reaching the stage where I can do my own bike maintenance (and am more than happy to pay the price to get there).

Cheers from rainy central Europe!
Originally Posted by Trevtassie
UN55 or UN26
Those are square taper bottom brackets. The imgur photo that the OP posted shows an external bearing Hollowtech II BB, i.e. a Deore SM-BB51, like this one:

https://planetcyclery.com/shimano-ho...bottom-bracket

iozhik, pretty much any "Mountain" style Hollowtech II bottom bracket with mountain bike branding (e.g. Deore, Deore XT, Alivio, SLX, etc.) should work, such as the SM-BB52 that you talked about. The "road" style Hollowtech II models (with road branding, e.g. Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, etc.) look almost the same but are a bit shorter so might not fit your crankset properly.

The picture you posted to me looks like your left crankarm was coming loose from the crank spindle. The gap you correctly highlighted in the pic should not exist and the crankarm should be pressed up against the bottom bracket cup. It sounds like you managed a good enough fix by pushing it back together and tightening the two pinch bolts, but there should be a small plastic or metal cap on the end of the spindle with what looks like a star-shaped impression in it. That is the preload screw. You are supposed to loosen the pinch bolts then tighten this screw (using a special tool) until the crankarm presses against the left BB cup with a little bit of force (aka preload). Then you tighten the pinch bolts to the correct torque.

But to keep this problem from recurring, you really need to do that preload procedure and then torque the bolts properly (I think the torque spec is around 13 Nm).

This tutorial should give you an idea of what I'm talking about:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...ession-slotted
Metaluna is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 06:17 AM
  #11  
Trevtassie
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936

Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.

Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times in 640 Posts
Originally Posted by Metaluna
Those are square taper bottom brackets. The imgur photo that the OP posted shows an external bearing Hollowtech II BB, i.e. a Deore SM-BB51, like this one:

https://planetcyclery.com/shimano-ho...bottom-bracket

iozhik, pretty much any "Mountain" style Hollowtech II bottom bracket with mountain bike branding (e.g. Deore, Deore XT, Alivio, SLX, etc.) should work, such as the SM-BB52 that you talked about. The "road" style Hollowtech II models (with road branding, e.g. Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, etc.) look almost the same but are a bit shorter so might not fit your crankset properly.

The picture you posted to me looks like your left crankarm was coming loose from the crank spindle. The gap you correctly highlighted in the pic should not exist and the crankarm should be pressed up against the bottom bracket cup. It sounds like you managed a good enough fix by pushing it back together and tightening the two pinch bolts, but there should be a small plastic or metal cap on the end of the spindle with what looks like a star-shaped impression in it. That is the preload screw. You are supposed to loosen the pinch bolts then tighten this screw (using a special tool) until the crankarm presses against the left BB cup with a little bit of force (aka preload). Then you tighten the pinch bolts to the correct torque.

But to keep this problem from recurring, you really need to do that preload procedure and then torque the bolts properly (I think the torque spec is around 13 Nm).

This tutorial should give you an idea of what I'm talking about:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...ession-slotted
Right you are, I just looked up the bike itself from the model name, and didn't look at the imgur link. The European on must have had hollowtech fitted .
I can't see the little plastic spacer ring that goes between the crank and the bearing either, unless it's hiding in there somewhere?
Trevtassie is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 08:20 AM
  #12  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Trevtassie
Right you are, I just looked up the bike itself from the model name, and didn't look at the imgur link. The European on must have had hollowtech fitted .
I can't see the little plastic spacer ring that goes between the crank and the bearing either, unless it's hiding in there somewhere?
Metaluna, thanks a bunch for your detailed and pedagogic answer!

I'll make sure to steer towards the SM-BB52 or equivalent when the time
comes.

A couple days ago I placed an order which should hopefully reach me
these coming days, part of which is indeed the tool to tighten the
preload screw. Thanks a lot for the feedback though. It feels so likely
to be making stupid mistakes... I take it though as an investment or
rather a guarantee that I'll be able to properly maintain a more decent
bike whenever this happens Thanks also for the Park Tool tutorial.
Their set of videos plus those of GCN are being educational beyond my
wildest dreams!

Cheers!
iozhik is offline  
Old 06-10-19, 08:21 AM
  #13  
iozhik
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: France
Posts: 13

Bikes: 2015 Kona Rove

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Apologies about the plaintext link.... As a new user I have to pay the penalty of not being able to upload images or paste URLs. I think after 10 posts or so I will be granted the privilege.
iozhik is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
travbikeman
Bicycle Mechanics
13
11-27-16 07:26 PM
sethbob
Bicycle Mechanics
8
01-30-12 09:48 AM
bikenh
Bicycle Mechanics
2
08-30-11 03:29 PM
brut3forc3
Bicycle Mechanics
3
04-17-10 02:43 PM
techieelectric
Bicycle Mechanics
9
02-24-10 10:45 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.