Which bike for long commute?
#1
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Which bike for long commute?
I've been biking to work for 12 years now. Until now I've never worked more than 11km form my home. This year, I'm a teacher, I'm working 27 to 32 km away from home, depends on the route I choose. The shortest has some cobbles and two hard ramps. The longest is all tarmac but on a somewhat narrow road with a long (4km), although not steep, climb. I've been using a 26 old mtb. But for the distance this year I'm looking for other options. The first 2 days tried a 29er aluminium with 2.1 mtb tyres, the thing rode like it was glued to the ground. On the third day I took my road bike (it is an old aluminium Scott Speedster S5) and the ride was enjoyable. Looking to buy a bike but I am on a really tight budget.
Thought about buying this used 29er fit road tyres and maybe a rigid fork. And maybe someday drop handlebars. Do you think this is an ok base for improvements or would I be wasting my money?
https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/bicicleta...tml#c1b822b31f
Thought about buying this used 29er fit road tyres and maybe a rigid fork. And maybe someday drop handlebars. Do you think this is an ok base for improvements or would I be wasting my money?
https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/bicicleta...tml#c1b822b31f
#2
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If I were you, I would look for a fitness/hybrid/dualsport with the ability for 35mm or wider tires. If you could happen to find a gravel bike within your budget, I believe it would be ideal. Personally, I much prefer drop bars when my commute extends beyond 10 miles.
#3
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I've commuted daily for now approaching 20 years. You want the fastest bike possible, which definitely does not include anything with suspension or fat tires or knobby tires. You want the lightest bike possible, particularly the wheels. The constant start/stopping in the city on a bike with heavy wheels is misery.
I'm now on a recent Specialized Allez road bike, which has a reasonably light frame and component set, and yet is relatively cheap. The wheels are heavyweights with thick 25mm tires. Definitely not race-ready, but I haven't had a flat in months, despite long rides over loose gravel and sand.
I'm now on a recent Specialized Allez road bike, which has a reasonably light frame and component set, and yet is relatively cheap. The wheels are heavyweights with thick 25mm tires. Definitely not race-ready, but I haven't had a flat in months, despite long rides over loose gravel and sand.
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I strongly recommend something with drop bars. For a commute that long, you really need the option to streamline and get your body out of the wind.
You don’ t need to be in the drops all the time, of course, so make sure that you configure the bike to be comfortable when grasping the hoods.
You don’ t need to be in the drops all the time, of course, so make sure that you configure the bike to be comfortable when grasping the hoods.
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I would optimize the Scott for the commute (racks and fenders).
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Drop bars and road gearing, but wider, not thinner tires. And smooth, supple tires, NO KNOBBIES...maybe 700x38 for the cobbles.
#7
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I recently swapped out 1,300 gram race-ready tubular wheels to the wider and heavier wheels on my Allez commuter bike.
These wheels have wider rims, which is apparently the latest fad, and 25mm tires which look more like 28s.
Anyway, the new wheels are heavy, unresponsive pigs, which I only suffer with because I am regularly riding long stretches of gravel and rooty trails in the middle of nowhere, and I don't want to be jumped by a bear while changing a flat.
If anyone can explain to me why I would need fatter tires on a road bike?
The new wheels are slow....
These wheels have wider rims, which is apparently the latest fad, and 25mm tires which look more like 28s.
Anyway, the new wheels are heavy, unresponsive pigs, which I only suffer with because I am regularly riding long stretches of gravel and rooty trails in the middle of nowhere, and I don't want to be jumped by a bear while changing a flat.
If anyone can explain to me why I would need fatter tires on a road bike?
The new wheels are slow....
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I'd second just using your Scott Speedster.
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/Sear...37&model=57178
I suppose it depends a bit on the cobbles. When I was in Parma years ago, they had these giant granite cobbles. And, I was younger... and rode my road bike on them like a maniac.
The smaller cobbles weren't nearly as bad.
If you do want a new bike, perhaps look for an older aluminum cyclocross bike such as the Specialized Tricross. You should be able to use a little larger tires (28mm to 32mm if you wish), and fenders if you wish.
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/Sear...37&model=57178
I suppose it depends a bit on the cobbles. When I was in Parma years ago, they had these giant granite cobbles. And, I was younger... and rode my road bike on them like a maniac.
The smaller cobbles weren't nearly as bad.
If you do want a new bike, perhaps look for an older aluminum cyclocross bike such as the Specialized Tricross. You should be able to use a little larger tires (28mm to 32mm if you wish), and fenders if you wish.
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I like plush. Comfortable. You know, a longer wheelbase, slower handling practical transportation bike. There are practical benefits too, like longer tire life, less flats, longer wheel and spoke life. I’m at end-of-life on a set of 38’s and I’m shopping for a set of 42’s. Seriously. I do about 28 miles a day, and if I’m gonna do that for the long term I gotta be comfortable. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.
To the OP’s original post, that GT is not something I would consider for a commute of the distance you’re describing. True, there are many who can rack up lots of miles on flat bar bikes, but the kind of mileage you’re looking at really falls closer to a drop bar, touring bike scenario. Focus on fit, comfort and durability because that’s what’s going to matter for the long run.
-Kedosto
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The reason I'm considering a new bike is to keep the road and mtb bikes I have to do that my road and mtb rides at the weekend. Although I don't know if I will have the energy to do so after +50km a day 4 days a week.
I was thinking about changing the tyres on the GT to 28s or 32s and also rigid fork and drop bars. In Portugal it isn't easy to find 2nd hand gravel bikes.
I was thinking about changing the tyres on the GT to 28s or 32s and also rigid fork and drop bars. In Portugal it isn't easy to find 2nd hand gravel bikes.
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Converting to drop bar will require you to get brifters. Those plus a new fork will greatly help to quickly help double your investment into that bike. Maybe rather shop around for a bike in the 450-550eur range that is closer to your desire. What is the used market looking like?
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Been shopping around and these are the figures I expect to transform the GT: Bike300Avid BB7100rigis Fork110Drop handlebar30Levers 160
Am I leaving something out?
This all sums 700€. I am hoping to bargain down the price of the bike. On this price range I can't find a decent gravel bike the ones I've seen, new ones, on this price range have bad mechanical disk brakes according to reviews.
Am I leaving something out?
This all sums 700€. I am hoping to bargain down the price of the bike. On this price range I can't find a decent gravel bike the ones I've seen, new ones, on this price range have bad mechanical disk brakes according to reviews.
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Been shopping around and these are the figures I expect to transform the GT: Bike300Avid BB7100rigis Fork110Drop handlebar30Levers 160
Am I leaving something out?
This all sums 700€. I am hoping to bargain down the price of the bike. On this price range I can't find a decent gravel bike the ones I've seen, new ones, on this price range have bad mechanical disk brakes according to reviews.
Am I leaving something out?
This all sums 700€. I am hoping to bargain down the price of the bike. On this price range I can't find a decent gravel bike the ones I've seen, new ones, on this price range have bad mechanical disk brakes according to reviews.
In almost every scenario, you're better off buying a drop bar bike rather than spending the money to convert. A new, entry level Specialized Allez or Dolce start at $800 (MSRP) and can probably be had for less. For that amount you get a design specific road bike with no fit compromises. I'm sure there are other reputable brands at even lower entry level price points. By the time you bring together the components to convert the GT, you'll essentially be paying $300+ for a frame and cranks, and honestly, they're not worth it. It's an especially bad investment when you consider the compromises you're likely to experience with the fit. Usually, the only time a Frankenbike conversion is worthwhile is when the builder already has a collection of salvaged parts laying around and cobbles something together. It almost always requires a certain amount of fiddling and mechanical expertise to bring together dissimilar parts as well. If this describes you or your situation, then by all means go for it. Otherwise, proceed with caution (IMHO).
-Kedosto
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I used to commute that distance. I used a touring bike with wider tires and it was quick and comfortable. Suggest looking for a used Trek 520 - can often be found near new if purchased for the big tour that never happened. Easily takes fenders and a rack, easy maintenance and nice wide tires (for a road bike).
#15
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I commute similar distance 25 to 35 to work (one-way) depending the road I take. I first got a road hybrid Dynamic Tempo 8 (a long story why I prefer a shaft-drived bikes) but while I went to work fast (around an hour ride) don't like it for bad roads or gravel roads - too narrow tires and too lightweight wheel/frame and my hands hurt from all the bumps and being in forward position all the time. I do not like mountain bikes since they're bad on the road, so I got a "classic" city commuter bike in Brik Brut 8 and it's been the best so far traversing 50+km days - my body feels much better after riding that distance, I adjusted the classic semi-straight handlebars just right so I'm a bit forward for more aggressive pedaling when needed, but upright enough that my hands don't take the load all the time and it's a comfty ride, a proper Brooks saddle maybe the secret too. I lose around 3-5 minutes compared to Tempo per 50km, but for me it's well worth it in terms of ride quality and ride enjoyment.
Just an idea to try classic city commuting bikes that aren't advertised as long distance haulers, but can be surprisingly good ones at that.
Just an idea to try classic city commuting bikes that aren't advertised as long distance haulers, but can be surprisingly good ones at that.
#16
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Hi ICH!
I usually try to go to Portugal (usually Lisboa) and drink Imperials in the sun
I'm making a big assumption here based on talking to my professor friends at the IQTB. My assumption is that cost of living has increased much faster than the wages and a €1K bike would be a huge purchase.
Also, this forum is most Americans who hasn't really been around Europe that much.
I would recommend a bike from Decathlon, which makes great/inexpensive combos.
Take a look through the BICICLETAS ESTRADA here:
https://www.decathlon.pt/C-1619203-b...estrada/T-7105
The 100 is quite good for €250
and the 500 is really good for €400
https://www.decathlon.pt/bicicleta-e...d_8379069.html
If you can splurge ... Shimano SORA is excellent for that money:
https://www.decathlon.pt/bicicleta-e...d_8377757.html
€550 is an excellent price for that rig.
To my American friends out there ... that works out to €550 = $687 - 23% tax = $555.
I'd say that's quite solid ... any of those three options will work well.
I don't have any personal experience with Microshift but haven't heard bad things either. (Middle option at €400.)
I usually try to go to Portugal (usually Lisboa) and drink Imperials in the sun
I'm making a big assumption here based on talking to my professor friends at the IQTB. My assumption is that cost of living has increased much faster than the wages and a €1K bike would be a huge purchase.
Also, this forum is most Americans who hasn't really been around Europe that much.
I would recommend a bike from Decathlon, which makes great/inexpensive combos.
Take a look through the BICICLETAS ESTRADA here:
https://www.decathlon.pt/C-1619203-b...estrada/T-7105
The 100 is quite good for €250
and the 500 is really good for €400
https://www.decathlon.pt/bicicleta-e...d_8379069.html
If you can splurge ... Shimano SORA is excellent for that money:
https://www.decathlon.pt/bicicleta-e...d_8377757.html
€550 is an excellent price for that rig.
To my American friends out there ... that works out to €550 = $687 - 23% tax = $555.
I'd say that's quite solid ... any of those three options will work well.
I don't have any personal experience with Microshift but haven't heard bad things either. (Middle option at €400.)
#17
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Actually that cheap bike gets a lot of love as a gravel bike.
https://www.decathlon.pt/pt/pageReviews?productId=8377732&collaborator=0
From a German:
Überraschend Gut
Selbst für schnelle sportliche Einheiten super geeignet. Innbergigen Gegenden fehlt dann aber doch der eine oder andere Gang. Für Berlin Brandenburg kein Problem. Die leichteste Übersetzung reicht für 10% Steigung aus. Alles weitere abhängig vom Nutzer ;-) Die Gänge schalten schnell und zuverlässig. Als Crosser auch auf Abwägen gut geeignet. Den schwersten Gang habe ich bisher nur Berg ab gebraucht. Die Gänge scheinen mir gut aufgeteilt.
Ich mache Triathlon und fahre Rennrad sportlich versiert. Besitze mehrere Rennräder im Profi Bereich und kann dieses günstige Rad absolut empfehlen für den Alltag und sportliche Ausfahrten.
That's pretty solid right there.
https://www.decathlon.pt/pt/pageReviews?productId=8377732&collaborator=0
From a German:
Überraschend Gut
Selbst für schnelle sportliche Einheiten super geeignet. Innbergigen Gegenden fehlt dann aber doch der eine oder andere Gang. Für Berlin Brandenburg kein Problem. Die leichteste Übersetzung reicht für 10% Steigung aus. Alles weitere abhängig vom Nutzer ;-) Die Gänge schalten schnell und zuverlässig. Als Crosser auch auf Abwägen gut geeignet. Den schwersten Gang habe ich bisher nur Berg ab gebraucht. Die Gänge scheinen mir gut aufgeteilt.
Ich mache Triathlon und fahre Rennrad sportlich versiert. Besitze mehrere Rennräder im Profi Bereich und kann dieses günstige Rad absolut empfehlen für den Alltag und sportliche Ausfahrten.
That's pretty solid right there.
Last edited by acidfast7; 09-25-18 at 06:25 AM.
#18
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Thought about buying this used 29er fit road tyres and maybe a rigid fork. And maybe someday drop handlebars. Do you think this is an ok base for improvements or would I be wasting my money?
https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/bicicleta...tml#c1b822b31f
https://www.olx.pt/anuncio/bicicleta...tml#c1b822b31f
I'm a bit confused by your post, why aren't you just planning on riding the road bike you already have?
#21
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Went to a decathlon store when I was in London. They had serviceable bikes like you might find at dicks sporting goods in the USA only maybe a tick higher end. I miss london.
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#24
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I'm sitting in the office right now waiting for my permanent residence application to be approved (ILR). Then I'm a free agent and can move into the financial sector, form a start up and wind down my professorship.
Decathlon sells some good **** cheap and those bikes are excellent value for money for commuting.
#25
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another option might be to get an additional road bike to sacrifice toward commuting. this way you keep your joyrider & are free to Fred up a commuter with rack, fenders, lights, cameras or flags. etc.