Paint and decals
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Paint and decals
I have a number of frames that are nearing readiness for paint. I was thinking about sending them to the local powder coater, but now that the weather is warm enough I'm thinking about using automotive paint.
I'm curious what paint people are using. I was just looking at TCP global automotive paints, both HOK and Custom Shop. I would like to keep costs down, but not to rattlecan levels. I have everything I need to spray, gun, filtering, water separation, compressor. So mostly I just need to buy paint.
And as the title says, I'm interested in decals. Not sure I want to mask on my first frame painting in decades, but maybe I'll do that.
I'm curious what paint people are using. I was just looking at TCP global automotive paints, both HOK and Custom Shop. I would like to keep costs down, but not to rattlecan levels. I have everything I need to spray, gun, filtering, water separation, compressor. So mostly I just need to buy paint.
And as the title says, I'm interested in decals. Not sure I want to mask on my first frame painting in decades, but maybe I'll do that.
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I've been using Transtar epoxy primer and HOK base and UC01 clear. These products fall into the middle to slightly lower price spectrum of similar products but the quality is excellent.
I'm also interested in decals. Been using hand cut stencil masks but it's a challenge to achieve the desired result.
I'm also interested in decals. Been using hand cut stencil masks but it's a challenge to achieve the desired result.
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I've used Custom Shop epoxy primer and some of their base/clear coats on a few frames with good results. It's not nearly as durable as powder, though.
Consider your base color when choosing a primer color. I've found that White works well under most of the bright colors. The clear application is where it usually goes wrong, if you try to put the first couple of coats on too heavy.
This frame and fork was painted with Custom Shop paints.
Consider your base color when choosing a primer color. I've found that White works well under most of the bright colors. The clear application is where it usually goes wrong, if you try to put the first couple of coats on too heavy.
This frame and fork was painted with Custom Shop paints.
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I have a Cricut and it does a great job of cutting vinyl decals and paint masks. I'd be happy to cut some for you, if you have a file. If it's an available font, I can do it without a file.
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Ed
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Inkscape would probably do a really good job on a font. I have done that in the past
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I don't clear over them. They are fairly thin and durable. I have some that have been in regular use for years with no peeling or damage. I think they are Oracal 651, which is rated for 5-8 years of outdoor use.
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I bought it when I wanted to do a restoration on a frame that had originally been hand lettered by a sign painter back in the '70's for me. I spoke with another sign painter and was quoted $500 for the lettering. I bought the Silhouette and used a "hand lettering" font- looks fantastic and paid for the vinyl cutter on the first use.
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I used a stencil cut from "Gerber mask", sprayed the blue, de-masked and then clear coated. The Gerber mask is heavier weight than regular sign vinyl, and has a lower tack adhesive. Still only good for one use, but more easily handled for stencil applications.
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Can anyone recommend a single stage paint, particularly if I can get it in rattlecans? I have some frames I just want to get done and that seems like a good way to go.
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I've never used it, but I've seen some impressive results with Spray Bike rattlecan paint.
https://spraybike.us/
https://spraybike.us/
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I have never used their products, but I have had my eye on this company for a couple of years. Looks like a pretty impressive offering of two stage and single stage paints. You might take a look. This has been a great thread - thanks everyone for all of your input. Best, Daniel
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I don't think I want to go with a clear coat. I was thinking just a urethane top coat. It looks like HOK has one, but their website is confusing about that.
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There are solid color urethane paints in the market, but I don't know of any that come in a rattle can. That's why I recommended the Spraymax products - you can get them from Amazon. And it's just minimal extra work to base and then clear.
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I'm about to talk myself back into powder coat, but I'm a little afraid of how they'll do with masking.
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Good mask of course is the first....some people will only do it with a positive airflow mask.
I did this once and used the pre-val sprayers ...which worked, but your set up sounds better
if you paint them all the same color it will save
I did an acid etch primer first (in a can from a auto paint store) then sandable primer, then 3-4 coats of color and 2 coats clear. it was really durable and looked nice
I did this once and used the pre-val sprayers ...which worked, but your set up sounds better
if you paint them all the same color it will save
I did an acid etch primer first (in a can from a auto paint store) then sandable primer, then 3-4 coats of color and 2 coats clear. it was really durable and looked nice
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#23
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I have used rattlecan primer and rattlecan paint with a 2k clear coat over the top. It looks pretty good the top coat is nice and shiny.
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I've never used it, but I've seen some impressive results with Spray Bike rattlecan paint.
https://spraybike.us/
https://spraybike.us/
If fact I just got some for a Bertoni resto.
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I'm not real happy after talking to the local powder coater. Anyone have a rough notion how much paint I need to paint multiple frames with a typical wet paint job? I have a nice spray setup.