help me choose a headset (or topcap)
#1
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help me choose a headset (or topcap)
EDIT: Did not mean top cap; meant upper bearing cover. Still looking for confirmation on my question.
hello all,
my headset top cap is a little too tall(especially since it has a 1cm spacer permanently attached to it). Anyways, here are the specs:
41.8mm, Campag (45/45 bearing)
From this list of headsets which would fit:
https://aebike.com/product-list/heads...ete-t600-qc30/
Or if you know where I could get an appropriate top cap, that would work as well. Is there a difference between a 41.8mm and 42mm headset?
would this work? https://aebike.com/product/fsa-impact...d4626-qc30.htm
hello all,
my headset top cap is a little too tall(especially since it has a 1cm spacer permanently attached to it). Anyways, here are the specs:
41.8mm, Campag (45/45 bearing)
From this list of headsets which would fit:
https://aebike.com/product-list/heads...ete-t600-qc30/
Or if you know where I could get an appropriate top cap, that would work as well. Is there a difference between a 41.8mm and 42mm headset?
would this work? https://aebike.com/product/fsa-impact...d4626-qc30.htm
Last edited by Triguy; 04-11-12 at 04:56 PM.
#2
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I don't understand the problem [without seeing it in front of me ]
It is no problem to have a spacer above the stem,
the steer tube is just so long for your current desires..
put the spacer on the underside , then as long as the top cap has space to compress into,
to tighten the headset pre load , you are good to go.
You could cut the fork shorter, it just won't grow back.
Where are you measuring this :
Math, 0.2mm is the obvious answer.
It is no problem to have a spacer above the stem,
the steer tube is just so long for your current desires..
put the spacer on the underside , then as long as the top cap has space to compress into,
to tighten the headset pre load , you are good to go.
You could cut the fork shorter, it just won't grow back.
Where are you measuring this :
Is there a difference between a 41.8mm and 42mm headset?
#3
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I have a tall headset top cap, such as this: https://www.blueskycycling.com/produc...e/18137_md.jpg
I need a short headset top cap, such as this: https://www.kbcyclewerks.com/store/w...de-200x200.jpg
i.e. I want my bars to go lower without buying a new stem.
As to your quip about 41.8mm. All the integrated headsets I see come in xx41 or xx42 designations. I found my answer at Park Tool after lack of success with google previously: 41.85 to 41.9mm 41.8mm Slip fit Integrated-angluar contact
45 x 45 degree contact
CampagnoloŽ Hiddenset standard IS42
I need a short headset top cap, such as this: https://www.kbcyclewerks.com/store/w...de-200x200.jpg
i.e. I want my bars to go lower without buying a new stem.
As to your quip about 41.8mm. All the integrated headsets I see come in xx41 or xx42 designations. I found my answer at Park Tool after lack of success with google previously: 41.85 to 41.9mm 41.8mm Slip fit Integrated-angluar contact
45 x 45 degree contact
CampagnoloŽ Hiddenset standard IS42
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Remove the top cap.
Remove any spacers that might be in between the top cap and the stem.
Loosen the 2 allen bolts on the stem clamp.
Remove the stem.
Remove the amount of spacers below the stem equal to the amount you want to lower your handlebar by.
Replace the stem.
Replace the spacers that you removed from below and above the stem and put them all back in place.
Put the top cap on.
Adjust the preload on the top cap.
Adjust the handlebar.
Lock down the 2 allen bolts on the stem.
These instructions are assuming that you have spacer(s) below the stem that you can remove to lower the handlebar.
Remove any spacers that might be in between the top cap and the stem.
Loosen the 2 allen bolts on the stem clamp.
Remove the stem.
Remove the amount of spacers below the stem equal to the amount you want to lower your handlebar by.
Replace the stem.
Replace the spacers that you removed from below and above the stem and put them all back in place.
Put the top cap on.
Adjust the preload on the top cap.
Adjust the handlebar.
Lock down the 2 allen bolts on the stem.
These instructions are assuming that you have spacer(s) below the stem that you can remove to lower the handlebar.
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BTW as far as I know, the "headset" is considered to be the bottom and top integrated bearings, the top cap and the star nut. I don't consider the spacers and the stem to be the headset.
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You have a headset with a tall stack height. The top cap has nothing to do with it- it is just the center piece that sets the bearing preload. Are there additional spacers above the upper bearing cover (the tall cone in the upper link of your second post)? If so, they can be moved above the stem, or you can shorten the steerer and remove them entirely. Have you already flipped the stem to its lower orientation? You could go with a headset with a lower stack height. If the cups are integrated into the frame, you would need to stick with 41.8 like your present headset. If the cups are pressed in as part of the headset installation, you can go either way.
#7
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The picture shows, not thje top cap,but, the ring that presses down on the top headset bearing,
It tapers a bit to make a smooth transition down to the OD of spacers..
I expect the manufacturer also makes a squat version.
see if your Bike Shop can order the squat version of that piece.
you could get rid of any spacers above that put the stem right on top of it,
the upper ring of the headset assembly,
put any of the spacers you removed , above the stem,
and then put the top cap . the one with the Preload adjusting bolt thru it..
( or there is no fixing a slow cycling speed , with bike-parts,
Triguy, get the times down in the swim and run portions.)
It tapers a bit to make a smooth transition down to the OD of spacers..
I expect the manufacturer also makes a squat version.
see if your Bike Shop can order the squat version of that piece.
you could get rid of any spacers above that put the stem right on top of it,
the upper ring of the headset assembly,
put any of the spacers you removed , above the stem,
and then put the top cap . the one with the Preload adjusting bolt thru it..
( or there is no fixing a slow cycling speed , with bike-parts,
Triguy, get the times down in the swim and run portions.)
Last edited by fietsbob; 04-11-12 at 02:16 PM.
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so, anyways...
First, to Fiets, I'm fast enough in all respects which I need to be. 2nd in my last race, 1st the time before that, 1st in the 5k before that. Not to mention, this is for my road bike not my tri-bike.
Second, sorry I used the term top cap; I should have said, upper bearing cover. The pictures I believe made this clear.
Third, I have all the spacers removed and stem flipped. I know how to do all of this, I was unsure of the proper headset standard to order; which none of you helped me with. My headset is made by Stronglight and is not a "model." It's generic to the frame thus why I'm looking for a compatible headset upper bearing cover from the QBP catalog.
To who ever asked, there are no cups, it's an integrated headset.
The part is not a spacer, as it functions as part of the headset preloading with a beveled edge.
As an aside, I'm not trying to win the all time lowest handlebar position. My frame is somewhat "tall" for it's reach, and so even with the shorter top cap my drop from saddle to hoods will only be ~8cm.
First, to Fiets, I'm fast enough in all respects which I need to be. 2nd in my last race, 1st the time before that, 1st in the 5k before that. Not to mention, this is for my road bike not my tri-bike.
Second, sorry I used the term top cap; I should have said, upper bearing cover. The pictures I believe made this clear.
Third, I have all the spacers removed and stem flipped. I know how to do all of this, I was unsure of the proper headset standard to order; which none of you helped me with. My headset is made by Stronglight and is not a "model." It's generic to the frame thus why I'm looking for a compatible headset upper bearing cover from the QBP catalog.
To who ever asked, there are no cups, it's an integrated headset.
The part is not a spacer, as it functions as part of the headset preloading with a beveled edge.
As an aside, I'm not trying to win the all time lowest handlebar position. My frame is somewhat "tall" for it's reach, and so even with the shorter top cap my drop from saddle to hoods will only be ~8cm.
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Well now you are making more sense. using the word top cap is what threw all of us off. I had no idea you were referring to the cover over the bearing since the top cap was at the very top of the steerer tube and would normally not affect the height of the handlebars themselves.
Just to make things simpler, do you have an actual picture of your setup?
Just to make things simpler, do you have an actual picture of your setup?