Proofide

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jgedwa

Someone will chime in with more definitive info in a bit, but I think I remember that skewers, like spokes, have their threads rolled on and not cut in. So simply using a tap will not work.

Hopefully I am wrong and your plan will work.

Jim

HillRider

Jim is correct, the threads (standard M5x0.8 incidentally) on skewers are rolled, not cut. I just checked and miked several Shimano skewers I have in my parts boxes. The threads measure slightly larger in diameter (0.192", 4.88 mm) then a short (~5 mm) section of unthreaded skewer just inboard of the threads which is (0.178", 4.52 mm) and further inside of that, the skewer's unthreaded diameter increases again (0.198", 5.03 mm) where it passes through the hub.

All of the above measurements demonstrate that the OEM threads are rolled and continuing them with a die is impractical. Buy the right one.

Coal Buster

The minimum recommended major diameter for an M5 thread is 4.826mm. You can mic yours behind the threads and see if it's thick enough to die. The only concern I would have is hardness. Rolled threads are worked hardened. Did the manufacturer anneal them afterwards to bring them back to base metal hardness or did he rely on the cold working process to bring the threads to a higher, more preferred, level of hardness?

JohnDThompson 

FWIW, there seem to be plenty of front Shimano skewers available on line:

Amazon.com: shimano front quick release skewer

And since the front wheel isn't driven by the chain, an open-cam type skewer ought to be fine there anyway.

Willbird

Thread rolling is a neat process :-). If you have a look at a decent sized C clamp you will see the threads are rolled..the bigger and better the clamp the easier it is to see that.

To simplify picture taking a 3/8" rod and rolling a 1/2" (not exact dia, exaggeration for example) thread on it......as the thread is rolled the dia. gets bigger in the process, and it is a lot stronger than a thread cut into a 1/2" shaft typically. Most bolts are made this way.

One place I worked they rolled the threads onto spindles for automotive use.


Bill

JohnDThompson 

If your Dawes has forward-facing horizontal dropouts, I wouldn't recommend an open CAM lever on the rear. The open cam design clamps less forcefully than the closed cam design and is intended only for vertical dropouts where axle slip isn't an issue.

fietsbob

Also you can consider a hex head skewer , then you tighten it with a wrench , putting a Star washer on the ends will let it bite into the dropout better.

to resist the rear wheel pulling ..

of course it is also relatively simple to just replace the hollow axle with a longer solid one, fixed with nuts, the inconvenience is its own theft deterrent.

FBinNY 

Discounting for the moment the question of hardness, it's a basic question of diameter.

A rolled thread would have a blank diameter slightly larger than 4.5mm, since the thread is raised from that. A cut thread would call for a blank of 5mm matching the OD of the thread cut into it. However, many skewers have diameters larger than 5mm, and only the threaded area is turned down. Thread dies, cannot remove excess material beyond the thread diameter, so any work area not 5mm or very close cannot be threaded.

So you start by measuring the skewer to see if cutting is possible, then it's a question of the material and hardness. Many skewers are hardened beyond where threads can be cut, but not all, so if the diameter is 5mm (or you can turn it to 5mm) then threading might be possible.

BTW- NOS basic Internal cam front and rear skewers are still out there, as are more modern external cam designs. With a bit of effort you should be able to find a matched pair at reasonable cost, probably close to what a good quality button die might run.

dedhed

Question - What difference would it make if a thread is rolled or cut if it's a standard size such as xx" X yy tpi? If it meets the standards for ID, OD pitch diameter etc. wouldn't a die roll down it? A nut can thread on it no matter how the threads were formed. I get FB's point about the blank starting out at different diameters and how that comes into play. I've often extended threads on bolts at work that I know are rolled thread with a die (not so easy on ˝ SS). I also second the point of buying the die is probably a wash pricewise of getting the correct skewer.

Willbird

They look like an ACME type thread to me on a C clamp...but that is a separate issue from rolled vs cut threads.

Bill

FBinNY 

For most practical purposes a thread is a thread regardless of how it's made. So a die, like the nut the thread is made for would run down it just fine. The rolled vs. cut thrad diameter issue is only an issue as it relates to the blank area now to be threaded. This can be anything, because only the threaded area might have been turned down to the right blank diameter.

For example, most high quality bolts are cold headed, and have rolled threads. But the blank area beyond the thread is as large or larger than the thread diameter, so extending by cutting might be possible (if the material allows).

So the OPs issue isn't how the threads were made, but what he's working with in the area where he plans to cut.

gsa103

Shimano skewers are still internal cams. The Dura-Ace 9000 wheelset came with 2 matching DA internal skewers. Just search ebay for "shimano front skewer" you should get all the hits you need.

Here's an un-used Ultegra front skewer ~$15 shipped-- Ultegra Front Skewer | eBay

Or an older Shimano for $9 shipped Shimano Quick Release Skewer Front Axle 100mm | eBay

Not sure about shipping to England, I would imagine you could find similar on ebay.uk.

Willbird

BUT if that bolt is a Grade 8 bolt for example, running those threads back with a die means it is for sure no longer as strong as it was :-). How much so is a crap shoot.

Bill

FBinNY 

The resulting threads will be as strong as any cut threads on a bolt of that size. They will be slightly weaker than rolled threads would have been, but that refers to the thread strength only. The bolts breaking strength is about the same, since the rood diameter and core material are the same.

However, it's a non issue. Odds are you couldn't thread a grade 8 bolt with a button die anyway.

Willbird

Had to look that one up :-).......yea 48 Rockwell C is pretty hard :-).

Coal Buster

Swaging a thread can make the thread fatter than the rod it's swaged from, which seems to be the case in Hillrider's example.

Dfrost 

Velo Orange has nice internal cam skewers at a very reasonable price, and they are also available through other online retailers.

VO Quick Release Skewers - Skewers - Wheels, Rims, Hubs & Accessories - Components

FBinNY 

You quoted from a follow up post. See post no.12 for the big picture.

dwmckee

Sometimes we use a spacer washer between the inside of the axle and the frame to allow a shorter axle to be used with wider spacing. Is there anything wrong with just using a couple of spacer shims on the outside instead and using the longer skewer the OP has? If it were me, I'd certainky be considering this as the easiest fix...

Sixty Fiver

Finding a matching set of QR skewers should not be difficult at all... maybe ask your local bike shop if they have any and you can't go wrong with Shimano as their closed cam units are very good.

Sixty Fiver

What kind of hubs are you running ?

I am sure that folks here could provide a match.

FBinNY 

The OP is in the UK so what's available is probably different than whats' on this side. Shipping from the USA can be pretty pricey compared to the stakes.

OTOH the holding power needed for a front wheel is pretty low, so either internal or external cam is going to be fine. But, reliability is paramount, so I wouldn't do anything that has the least reason to not trust it. Skewers are cheap, peace of mind is priceless.