Pulled trigger after ...3 years.
#1
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Pulled trigger after ...3 years.
I'd seen this Miyata up high in the racks since late 2016 when I first started visiting a semi-local, suburban co-op, but even with it's $120 price tag I held off, until now!
What kept this bike from selling was a mostly-superficial crusty-rust problem, covering the headset and giving the toptube a distinct structurally-questionable appearance, all the result of being ridden mostly(?) on an indoor trainer.
There was also a beat-looking, off-brand saddle, a .2mm-too-small generic seatpost and genuine hardware-store SAE screw/washer/nut clamping the frame ears!
After I negotiated for a slightly-lower price, and later had it in my kitchen, I decided to try a new approach to help evaluate what was going on underneath all of the rust, including rust residues over the surface of the paint. I mixed a tablespoon(!) of oxalic acid powder in a 8oz glass of water, heated it up to dissolve all of the powder, grabbed a toothbrush and had a go.
Within an hour, all of the rust was gone from the headset, frame, brake springs, bolts and etc.
Amazingly, relatively little evidence of it remained, but for a small area surrounding one toptube cable housing guide and the headset top nut. This was rust-be-gone in fast-forward, but with no damage to the paint and with the chrome left gleaming after I finally took it outside to spray down the entire bike with water from the hose nozzle.
I put in several hours, rebuilt the bb, serviced the original cabling, replaced the chain, then fitted a larger UG 7s cassette on a different set of wheels (since the bike's rims were mis-matched, though on non-original 32h Superbe hubs).
I got to use the bike for today's balmy (38F) "Fast Friday" ride while also riding to/from the event, all 45 miles on some pretty old 21mm tires inflated to 95psi.
Went well, and the goat-head thorn that punctured the front tire on the last(!) mile even happened two doors down from the LBS, where a floor pump awaited.
It might be a keeper since it fits well, but I'm not liking the bar/tape combo, looking for better grip and control here.
Here's the 1984 Miyata Nine-Twelve after yesterday's overhaul. I'm not feeling quite so bad now about selling my Seven-Ten about fifteen years back!
What kept this bike from selling was a mostly-superficial crusty-rust problem, covering the headset and giving the toptube a distinct structurally-questionable appearance, all the result of being ridden mostly(?) on an indoor trainer.
There was also a beat-looking, off-brand saddle, a .2mm-too-small generic seatpost and genuine hardware-store SAE screw/washer/nut clamping the frame ears!
After I negotiated for a slightly-lower price, and later had it in my kitchen, I decided to try a new approach to help evaluate what was going on underneath all of the rust, including rust residues over the surface of the paint. I mixed a tablespoon(!) of oxalic acid powder in a 8oz glass of water, heated it up to dissolve all of the powder, grabbed a toothbrush and had a go.
Within an hour, all of the rust was gone from the headset, frame, brake springs, bolts and etc.
Amazingly, relatively little evidence of it remained, but for a small area surrounding one toptube cable housing guide and the headset top nut. This was rust-be-gone in fast-forward, but with no damage to the paint and with the chrome left gleaming after I finally took it outside to spray down the entire bike with water from the hose nozzle.
I put in several hours, rebuilt the bb, serviced the original cabling, replaced the chain, then fitted a larger UG 7s cassette on a different set of wheels (since the bike's rims were mis-matched, though on non-original 32h Superbe hubs).
I got to use the bike for today's balmy (38F) "Fast Friday" ride while also riding to/from the event, all 45 miles on some pretty old 21mm tires inflated to 95psi.
Went well, and the goat-head thorn that punctured the front tire on the last(!) mile even happened two doors down from the LBS, where a floor pump awaited.
It might be a keeper since it fits well, but I'm not liking the bar/tape combo, looking for better grip and control here.
Here's the 1984 Miyata Nine-Twelve after yesterday's overhaul. I'm not feeling quite so bad now about selling my Seven-Ten about fifteen years back!
Last edited by dddd; 01-10-20 at 11:14 PM.
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#3
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#4
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That turned out nice. I may have to try your OA recipe. The red on silver paint reminds me a lot of a 70's Motobecane Grand Jubile.
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Nice grab-n-save! Oxalic is more than a bar keepers friend, it’s a C&V cyclist’s friend. Nice job!
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Looks good to me. Gotta love the red handlebar tape and cable housings with the silver.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Red and silver are two of my favorite combos. I built this one up last year and gave it to a friend.
Nice job on your Miyata. I had no idea about using Oxalic Acid. Do you have a certain mixture formula you might share?
Nice job on your Miyata. I had no idea about using Oxalic Acid. Do you have a certain mixture formula you might share?
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You waited how long to purchase this? And no one else was interested?
amazing. Nice job.
I think you were lucky.
amazing. Nice job.
I think you were lucky.
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Thanks for the o.a. tip about strong dilution and short time period! A tablespoon to a cup of water is about 12 times stronger than what I use to soak a frame, but I have to soak it for a day or two at that strength. Did the yellow residue that forms when you soak a frame start to form in that short time period?
And nice bike!
Brent
And nice bike!
Brent
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Thanks for the o.a. tip about strong dilution and short time period! A tablespoon to a cup of water is about 12 times stronger than what I use to soak a frame, but I have to soak it for a day or two at that strength. Did the yellow residue that forms when you soak a frame start to form in that short time period?
And nice bike!
Brent
And nice bike!
Brent
The normal mix removes rust over night, but hereI had most of the rust gone in about twenty minutes.
The residue appeared like dirty water, but came right off with a shower and drying with a rag, no additional scrubbing at all.
What's amazing is that even the severely bubbled chrome on the top nut gleams good enough from just six feet away, even though much of the chrome is gone.
I was kind of expecting some deleterious result on the paint or something, but it washed off and all of the parts and paint look fine.
I weighed the bike today including pedals and lightweight bottle cage, came up as the exact same 24 pounds as my recent Pro-Tour save! This one even has lighter rims and cassette-style hub, so this does seem a little odd to me. 24lbs is what my stock SR Semi-Pro with pedals weighs (these are all ~57-58cm frame size).
#13
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I'm wanting to put wider tires on the Miyata, so might use my NOS red/black Michelin 23's. Right now it has "25c" Performance brand tires (that measure all of 21mm at 95psi on the i13.5mm Wolber T430 Alpine rims).
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What brand of bike is that? Looks like a custom-stickered GT. It sure is shiny, right down to the rims! A shiny gruppo might be over-doing it on that bike so the Tri-color balances it out.
I'm wanting to put wider tires on the Miyata, so might use my NOS red/black Michelin 23's. Right now it has "25c" Performance brand tires (that measure all of 21mm at 95psi on the i13.5mm Wolber T430 Alpine rims).
I'm wanting to put wider tires on the Miyata, so might use my NOS red/black Michelin 23's. Right now it has "25c" Performance brand tires (that measure all of 21mm at 95psi on the i13.5mm Wolber T430 Alpine rims).
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So we're not going to talk about the absolutely mint and POLISHED shifters?!?
Great looking 912. A race bike with a suit on. I love the thinned lugs.
Great looking 912. A race bike with a suit on. I love the thinned lugs.
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How much of your seatpost is there in the frame? That post looks to be pretty high. Other than t hat it's a great looking bike. I got a Miyata Seven Ten for $30.00CDN and i love it.
Cheers
Cheers
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I weighed the bike today including pedals and lightweight bottle cage, came up as the exact same 24 pounds as my recent Pro-Tour save! This one even has lighter rims and cassette-style hub, so this does seem a little odd to me. 24lbs is what my stock SR Semi-Pro with pedals weighs (these are all ~57-58cm frame size).
I'm 99% finished with an 1982, 912 next size up, exact group but with period tubular wheelset. Awaiting an Avocet computer.... weight is just shy of 23 lbs Miyata brand tubing, double butted.
Looking forward to its first ride, soon as the roads clear of snow. ;")
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This one is pretty long, and the line is definitely well inside of the seattube.
I went ahead and put some good, used GP4000SII 25mm tires on today. Measuring out to 25.6mm width, these should help make tomorrow's ride a pleasant one.
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