Asking for permission...
#26
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Now if you wanted box lining, or elaborate pin striping, I'd throw my hands up and start negotiating now.
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#28
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^ That doesn't appear to be lug lining. Maybe off-the-lug lining.?.
#29
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Does your bikes serial number start with 204xx? My 21" Platimun Grey #20432
That's quite a spread given this is a 1yr only color.
But.. there's no longer a question of keeping the original finish. Looking for the ser# I discovered the bottom bracket shell is a rustball also. Paint's gonna have to come off this one to preserve the bike.
Guess I'll sit down w/ powder coater to find a workable single layer color. Easy to obscure details w/ powder, it's comparatively "thick".
And, few people realize powder can be wet sanded and polished to a glass smooth finish.
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#31
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I agree with really cleaning and waxing it first. Gold lug lining might make the decals pop more. Maybe some other graphics?
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#32
Full Member
Not really 14324 decodes to 1981 43 week 24 frame. What is your headbadge number? mine 2422 They apprently just finished them as needed, if they got a new batch of frames from Don Mainline they put them in front of what was left. They made frames on 18 weeks that I have serials on, and from low of 2 to a high of 71 covering 435 frames my guess is they made 30-40 most weeks and 750 - 1000 frrames.
#33
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Do what you want for all the reasons that you can.
I like my bikes pretty, either original or after a paint job/powder coat. My completely unsolicited opinion is that bubbling and those imperfections are quite minimal, especially for the year. It's an '83 Schwinn, a really really cool year color and graphics-wise for them (speaking as a Schwinn fan). The metallic in the grey is very present, and polished up, it will really sparkle in the sun. And the grey is just dark enough to let the silver components pop in contrast, while still leaving room for a colored Brooks and bar tape. Such a nice grey! Plus all the components are 'worn' at the same rate as the frame. It all matches.
So "at worst" you have a gorgeous bike that's ready to rock. Not a bad place to be!
I like my bikes pretty, either original or after a paint job/powder coat. My completely unsolicited opinion is that bubbling and those imperfections are quite minimal, especially for the year. It's an '83 Schwinn, a really really cool year color and graphics-wise for them (speaking as a Schwinn fan). The metallic in the grey is very present, and polished up, it will really sparkle in the sun. And the grey is just dark enough to let the silver components pop in contrast, while still leaving room for a colored Brooks and bar tape. Such a nice grey! Plus all the components are 'worn' at the same rate as the frame. It all matches.
So "at worst" you have a gorgeous bike that's ready to rock. Not a bad place to be!
#34
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Not really 14324 decodes to 1981 43 week 24 frame. What is your headbadge number? mine 2422 They apprently just finished them as needed, if they got a new batch of frames from Don Mainline they put them in front of what was left. They made frames on 18 weeks that I have serials on, and from low of 2 to a high of 71 covering 435 frames my guess is they made 30-40 most weeks and 750 - 1000 frrames.
#35
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Then, taking another photo of frame I found rust under paint on top tube, looking for Ser# I flipped frame over and saw bottom bracket. I'm thinking this is more rust than I oughta be leaving in place?
#36
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Great picture Danny S . We can see the rust for sure. It came from the surface that lock ring bottoms against. This looks pretty normal for a bike of this age. I use Testors model paint. If it were, my bike, I would remove the bottom bracket before sanding and painting. I use a small artist brush. Usually will need two coats. On this you might even apply some Rustoleum Rusty metal primer first, then sand it smooth and let it sit for a few days before applying the touch up paint.
On the bottom of the bottom bracket, you don't have to be an artist to touch it up. Nobody, except you will see it.
It may be time to renew the grease in the bottom bracket anyway.
On the bottom of the bottom bracket, you don't have to be an artist to touch it up. Nobody, except you will see it.
It may be time to renew the grease in the bottom bracket anyway.
#37
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#38
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...I use Testors model paint. If it were, my bike, I would remove the bottom bracket before sanding and painting. I use a small artist brush. Usually will need two coats. On this you might even apply some Rustoleum Rusty metal primer first, then sand it smooth and let it sit for a few days before applying the touch up paint.
Ya THINK?!
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#39
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I had similar paint issues. Actually they were quite a bit worse on a Bruce Gordon. I repainted mine which I do not regret. However, next time I might have used wet spray instead of powder coat. But I do feel powder coat is a better coating for the frame. But there was a lot of pitting underneath that spidering due to rust on my frame. If it were me I may ride it for a year the way it is, but I would probably paint it at some point.
#40
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I had similar paint issues. Actually they were quite a bit worse on a Bruce Gordon. I repainted mine which I do not regret. However, next time I might have used wet spray instead of powder coat. But I do feel powder coat is a better coating for the frame. But there was a lot of pitting underneath that spidering due to rust on my frame. If it were me I may ride it for a year the way it is, but I would probably paint it at some point.
Gran Sport components aren't finished up to Campy's usual "jewelry finish" standards, but these are cleaning up pretty well.
After:
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#42
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it's not the most inspiring color but they are only original once. If originality doesn't matter then outlining the lugs in a contrasting color would both liven up the looks and show off the lug work.
#43
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Completely agree with your decision to sandblast and start over. The rust needs to be gone.
I've had two bikes powder-coated with great results. Someone above suggested finding someone experienced with bikes and knows the difference between a bike frame and a trailer hitch. They'll know exactly how to tape it off and will ensure all the threads are chased if needed.
Be aware that if you powder-coat instead of paint, you'll lose a little bit of detail around the lugs. They edges aren't as "sharp" as they will be with paint. It doesn't bother me, but originality and cosmetics are less important than functionality on my bikes. I don't have any "collectibles".
I've had two bikes powder-coated with great results. Someone above suggested finding someone experienced with bikes and knows the difference between a bike frame and a trailer hitch. They'll know exactly how to tape it off and will ensure all the threads are chased if needed.
Be aware that if you powder-coat instead of paint, you'll lose a little bit of detail around the lugs. They edges aren't as "sharp" as they will be with paint. It doesn't bother me, but originality and cosmetics are less important than functionality on my bikes. I don't have any "collectibles".
#44
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Thread Starter
Completely agree with your decision to sandblast and start over. The rust needs to be gone.
I've had two bikes powder-coated with great results. Someone above suggested finding someone experienced with bikes and knows the difference between a bike frame and a trailer hitch. They'll know exactly how to tape it off and will ensure all the threads are chased if needed.
Be aware that if you powder-coat instead of paint, you'll lose a little bit of detail around the lugs. They edges aren't as "sharp" as they will be with paint. It doesn't bother me, but originality and cosmetics are less important than functionality on my bikes. I don't have any "collectibles".
I've had two bikes powder-coated with great results. Someone above suggested finding someone experienced with bikes and knows the difference between a bike frame and a trailer hitch. They'll know exactly how to tape it off and will ensure all the threads are chased if needed.
Be aware that if you powder-coat instead of paint, you'll lose a little bit of detail around the lugs. They edges aren't as "sharp" as they will be with paint. It doesn't bother me, but originality and cosmetics are less important than functionality on my bikes. I don't have any "collectibles".
Anyone had good experiences with a powder coater within driving range of Nashville?
#45
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Thx Jefff. I'm aware powder can obscure details. Hoping to find an appropriate color that will work with a single layer. Many powder coating colors require base color, metallic or pearl coat then a final cleat coat Serial numbers are obliterated, lugs are half filled in. I'm hoping a single layer will minimize the issue. If paint wasn't prohibitively pricey, and didn't take so long to toughen up, I'd go that route for sure. But powder had a bunch of advantages, and it's removable as well if it ends in disaster.
Anyone had good experiences with a powder coater within driving range of Nashville?
Anyone had good experiences with a powder coater within driving range of Nashville?
#46
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#47
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You have my permission, especially after that pic of the bottom bracket. Once it’s past basic touch-up, have no choice. That bottom bracket is past touch-up.
I have had 3 frames professionally redone, and bought a bike that had a professional respray. Very happy with the results, and just as, or more so, durable then the original. Factory paint jobs were not always that great, not at all impressed with original paint on the Sports Tourer I bought, will be better then factory after the respray.
Tim
I have had 3 frames professionally redone, and bought a bike that had a professional respray. Very happy with the results, and just as, or more so, durable then the original. Factory paint jobs were not always that great, not at all impressed with original paint on the Sports Tourer I bought, will be better then factory after the respray.
Tim