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Old 07-02-20, 02:27 PM
  #1  
John E
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Busted another pedal

For the second time in my life I have broken a pedal cage while riding. The first was one of my beloved SunTour platform pedals; today's victim was one of my cheapo WellGo mountain bike pedals. I snapped the outside rear corner of the steel cage, near the toeclip eyelet. I scrounged a pair of early Kyokuto Pro Ace road quill pedals (probably from my 1971 American Eagle/Nishiki Semi-Pro/Competition) from my parts bin, and the verdict is so far ... so good. The difference between genuine ball bearings and bushings is significant.

I have been putting a lot of miles on the Schwinn KOM-10 mountain bike over the past couple of months, and in the process I have worn out a SunTour thumb shifter, and now this pedal.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Old 07-02-20, 06:02 PM
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3speedslow
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Quit playing video games on your thumb shifter!

As for the pedals, you are just a torque monster!
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Old 07-02-20, 08:31 PM
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A KKT Pro-Ace is about as high quality as you can get compared to a Wellgo pedal of any sort.
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Old 07-02-20, 09:57 PM
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scarlson 
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Wellgo made a few decent BMX pedals. The LU-313 comes to mind. But yea, KKTs are nice and the OP's just an animal!

Reminds me of a friend of mine I built a bike for. One night he rode to the bar and back. Next morning, wakes up a little bleary and tries to take his bike out only to find the chain is nowhere to be found. I dismissed it as a drunken accident until he snapped another chain sober!
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Old 07-03-20, 12:16 PM
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John E
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
... As for the pedals, you are just a torque monster!
Not really. I'm just a small-to-medium guy, 5'8" tall, 145 lbs., but I have broken two pedals, three cranks, two frames, one front hub flange, three rear axles, and several spokes and cables over about 120K miles / 200K km. I do a fair amount of climbing, and I am not as smooth as I should be in my pedaling style, and I suspect these are contributing factors.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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Old 07-03-20, 03:48 PM
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Update. After my ride this morning, the right pedal bearings were loose, and the left were binding. This is normal if the locknuts are too loose, because RH threads are used on both pedals. I completely rebuilt both replacement pedals and noted that the bearing races and cones of these 50-year-old, fairly heavily-used pedals are still in remarkably good condition. (Side note: the quill design and bore diameter of these KKT units makes rebuilding a cinch with standard 11mm and 14mm sockets. Tighten the 14mm cone to leave just a bit of play, then tighten the locknut against it. I got stuck trying to rebuild the Shimano pedals that came with my mountain bike because the outer frame blocked direct access to the locknut and cone, so I bought the Wellgos as temporary substitutes, and we saw how that ended.)
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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