Brake Pad shapes and sizes
#1
The dropped
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Brake Pad shapes and sizes
I have a question there may not be an easy answer for. What, besides mounting post treatment (threaded or smooth) and pad thickness (or expected caliper travel) differentiates the various styles of rim brake pad? I'm only concerned about shape, not compound.
As an example, I have 2 pair of Kool Stop eagle claw 2 pads with plenty of life that were too thick for the low profile cantilever brakes and wider rims for my touring bike. I recently acquired a Raleigh-built Hercules from 1960, and a Schwinn Racer from 1966 which need new pads. So what's stopping me from using the threaded post Kool Stops I pulled from my tourer on those single pivot calipers?
As an example, I have 2 pair of Kool Stop eagle claw 2 pads with plenty of life that were too thick for the low profile cantilever brakes and wider rims for my touring bike. I recently acquired a Raleigh-built Hercules from 1960, and a Schwinn Racer from 1966 which need new pads. So what's stopping me from using the threaded post Kool Stops I pulled from my tourer on those single pivot calipers?
#2
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,507
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2743 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
If they fit, nothing. I run a pair on the front of my 84 Gran Prix
#3
Banned
Here is the Range.. Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977
a more recent design..
a more recent design..
Last edited by fietsbob; 07-10-20 at 10:11 AM.
#4
The dropped
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
Thanks! You're using eagle 2 pads on your Grand Prix then? I'm guessing that pad shape is influenced by expected conditions, and Kool Stop added innovations like their plow tip to cope. I expect that you don't want to use a flat-faced rectangular block for harsh conditions, but using a plow tip for less challenging conditions isn't a detriment.
#5
Banned
What I have found with Eagle Claw pads , is, on forks, the long , leading end is between the fork blades, facing back,
so the QR opening of brake calipers is ineffective.. I then must let the air out of the tire to get the wheel out..
so the QR opening of brake calipers is ineffective.. I then must let the air out of the tire to get the wheel out..
#6
Senior Member
Here is the Range.. Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977
a more recent design..
a more recent design..
#7
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,507
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2743 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts
Yep, the back is inside the fork legs and a tight fit. My bike shouldn't need the wheel removed unless it's flat.
#8
Banned
#9
The dropped
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
#10
The dropped
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
You must be using a wide tire on a narrow rim. Usually the brake QR does enough to squeak the wheel out, when inflated. You're not wrong about them hanging up inside the fork legs though. I can measure, but I think I'm only reducing the caliper distance by 2mm (1mm per side) by using these over the installed Weinmann pads.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,902
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4802 Post(s)
Liked 3,922 Times
in
2,551 Posts
My take (and experience) is that except for clearance issues (tires, fork, etc) I cannot tell a difference between pad style, just the rubber compound. My winter/rain/city bike has had probably every Koolstop cantilever option made over the years. (Mafac Racers and skinny Open Pro/almost as skinny Sport rims. With that combo, clearance, even tire clearance isn't an issue.) I suspect the bigger, longer pads last longer just being more rubber there but as far as stopping, I cannot tell.
#12
The dropped
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
My take (and experience) is that except for clearance issues (tires, fork, etc) I cannot tell a difference between pad style, just the rubber compound. My winter/rain/city bike has had probably every Koolstop cantilever option made over the years. (Mafac Racers and skinny Open Pro/almost as skinny Sport rims. With that combo, clearance, even tire clearance isn't an issue.) I suspect the bigger, longer pads last longer just being more rubber there but as far as stopping, I cannot tell.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,902
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4802 Post(s)
Liked 3,922 Times
in
2,551 Posts
If you are going to run chrome rims, consider the Racer calipers. They will probably drop right on to both of those bikes. (My 1967 Peugeot came with them so while they may not be model correct, they are the right vintage. For many years, the best stoppers out there. Still excellent. KoolStop and Racers work really well (and very rarely give off little muted versions of the famous Mafac squeal)
And complete aside but fun - I miss the squeal. In traffic, what a tool! .A Boston driver cuts me off. I hit the front brake much harder than I need to . SQUEAL!!! Every head for a block in each direction turns. I point at the offending car. Driver comes out of his fog and sees everybody looking at him! Driver slinks off with his tail between his legs. (I grew my cycling legs in and around Boston.)
Ben
And complete aside but fun - I miss the squeal. In traffic, what a tool! .A Boston driver cuts me off. I hit the front brake much harder than I need to . SQUEAL!!! Every head for a block in each direction turns. I point at the offending car. Driver comes out of his fog and sees everybody looking at him! Driver slinks off with his tail between his legs. (I grew my cycling legs in and around Boston.)
Ben
#14
The dropped
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
If you are going to run chrome rims, consider the Racer calipers. They will probably drop right on to both of those bikes. (My 1967 Peugeot came with them so while they may not be model correct, they are the right vintage. For many years, the best stoppers out there. Still excellent. KoolStop and Racers work really well (and very rarely give off little muted versions of the famous Mafac squeal)
And complete aside but fun - I miss the squeal. In traffic, what a tool! .A Boston driver cuts me off. I hit the front brake much harder than I need to . SQUEAL!!! Every head for a block in each direction turns. I point at the offending car. Driver comes out of his fog and sees everybody looking at him! Driver slinks off with his tail between his legs. (I grew my cycling legs in and around Boston.)
Ben
And complete aside but fun - I miss the squeal. In traffic, what a tool! .A Boston driver cuts me off. I hit the front brake much harder than I need to . SQUEAL!!! Every head for a block in each direction turns. I point at the offending car. Driver comes out of his fog and sees everybody looking at him! Driver slinks off with his tail between his legs. (I grew my cycling legs in and around Boston.)
Ben