speedevil 

I think these are the right "screws" to fasten a headbadge to the headtube. They're not actually screws, the head is round like a rivet and they have helical threads that cause it to turn as it is tapped into place. There is no slot in the head.

https://www.mcmaster.com/drive-screws

Any words of wisdom before I order some? Kind of silly to buy 100 of them when I need only 2, but I want this to be done right. I'd be happy to mail some to others if needed. Would it be smart to put a dab of caulk on the back of the badge before I put the drive screws in? Do I need to support the inside of the headtube before I tap the screws in? If so, is there a good way to do that?

3alarmer 

...I've never had much luck doing this with screws. The last one I did, the screws looked so clunky that i finally removed them, and refastened the badge with a piece of 3M trim tape. Then I glued some short small rivets in the holes so the rivet heads would show.

xiaoman1 

^^^^
Ben

francophile 

The following may help:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ge-rivets.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...tallation.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...headbadge.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...ead-badge.html

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...adbadge-2.html

Andy_K 

I did that on my Stella. Maybe I used the wrong thickness of 3M trim tape, but it left a little more of a gap than I would have liked. You have to be looking for it, but I know it's there.

I've got a Pinarello on which a local paint shop installed the head badge with drive screws. Here's a visual of both methods:



Pretty much a wash in appearance, IMO. The trim tape was probably easier.

Drillium Dude 

In addition to refinishing this badge, I also found a couple fake rivets to add to it. I fastened the badge to the headtube with JB Weld. Worked great!



Sorry I can't recall where I found the brass "rivets".

DD

due ruote 

I have some 3/16” in silver finish. If that would work, pm me with your address and I’ll send a few.
ie. The McMaster Carr ones in the OP.
Btw I had a hard time with these. I drilled per the MMC spec, but when I tried to tap them in, it seemed like I was denting the headtube. So I bailed on that plan and used a bead of silicone and faux rivets made from brass escutcheon nails.

speedevil 

@due rote - thanks for the offer, but I placed an order last night. I ordered a bag of 100, in sizes 00 and 0 and 1/8" length from McMaster-Carr. So when I'm finished, I'll have 198 of them to give away to anyone that needs them. I am also concerned about denting the headtube, so I'll watch carefully for that and enlarge the hole in the headtube if that seems to be needed.

I'll probably put a dab of silicone caulk under the badge and around the drive screws as I install it. That way, even if the headtube hole is a little larger than it should be, I won't lose the badge.

I'll follow up with photos and a report of how it goes when the drive screws get here.

due ruote 

That may be a better length than what I have. Obviously you need enough length to make a solid connection, but there isn’t a lot of space between the head tube wall and the steerer. And I suppose some badges are thicker than others.
Make sure you have a decent pair of needle nose tweezers. And something like a jeweler’s hammer. They are pretty tiny.