Are there wheels which wont work tubeless?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Rolla, MO
Posts: 171
Bikes: 2014 Giant defy advanced 0 with DI-2, 2013 Blue Triad TT Bike, 2015 Fuji Altamira CX 1.3 Gravel Bike
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Are there wheels which wont work tubeless?
I was wondering about this question, based on my experience of setting up not specific tubeless rims with stans tape, and tubeless valve stems and running them tubeless.
I have done this with 5 separate sets of wheels, with no problems to date on any of these wheels. 1 was alloy, 4 were carbon.
In looking at purchasing wheels today, I still get comments from wheel companies that they don't recommend tubeless, for their wheels and I even had one company (HED) say that running their wheel tubeless would void their warrentee and could damage the wheel .
This what they specifically said: The bead seat Diameter on a tubeless rim must be larger to accommodate the tighter fit and different distribution of forces that tubeless tire exerts on the rim.
Bead seat diameter larger ? This is a new one on me. Can someone explain this to me and whether this is really the case and if so why has this never been a problem on the five sets of wheels I have set up this way that were not designated Tubeless.
I have done this with 5 separate sets of wheels, with no problems to date on any of these wheels. 1 was alloy, 4 were carbon.
In looking at purchasing wheels today, I still get comments from wheel companies that they don't recommend tubeless, for their wheels and I even had one company (HED) say that running their wheel tubeless would void their warrentee and could damage the wheel .
This what they specifically said: The bead seat Diameter on a tubeless rim must be larger to accommodate the tighter fit and different distribution of forces that tubeless tire exerts on the rim.
Bead seat diameter larger ? This is a new one on me. Can someone explain this to me and whether this is really the case and if so why has this never been a problem on the five sets of wheels I have set up this way that were not designated Tubeless.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 526
Bikes: 2015 Redline Conquest Elite; 2014 Fuji Tahoe 1.1 27.5er; 2006 Scott Speedster S30 (sold); 2001 Specialized S-Works CX; 1990 Trek 750 (sold); 1999 Bianchi Volpe; 1988 Bianchi Campione D'Italia.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 131 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I was wondering about this question, based on my experience of setting up not specific tubeless rims with stans tape, and tubeless valve stems and running them tubeless.
I have done this with 5 separate sets of wheels, with no problems to date on any of these wheels. 1 was alloy, 4 were carbon.
In looking at purchasing wheels today, I still get comments from wheel companies that they don't recommend tubeless, for their wheels and I even had one company (HED) say that running their wheel tubeless would void their warrentee and could damage the wheel .
This what they specifically said: The bead seat Diameter on a tubeless rim must be larger to accommodate the tighter fit and different distribution of forces that tubeless tire exerts on the rim.
Bead seat diameter larger ? This is a new one on me. Can someone explain this to me and whether this is really the case and if so why has this never been a problem on the five sets of wheels I have set up this way that were not designated Tubeless.
I have done this with 5 separate sets of wheels, with no problems to date on any of these wheels. 1 was alloy, 4 were carbon.
In looking at purchasing wheels today, I still get comments from wheel companies that they don't recommend tubeless, for their wheels and I even had one company (HED) say that running their wheel tubeless would void their warrentee and could damage the wheel .
This what they specifically said: The bead seat Diameter on a tubeless rim must be larger to accommodate the tighter fit and different distribution of forces that tubeless tire exerts on the rim.
Bead seat diameter larger ? This is a new one on me. Can someone explain this to me and whether this is really the case and if so why has this never been a problem on the five sets of wheels I have set up this way that were not designated Tubeless.
There are lots of wheels that won't work tubeless. If a manufacturer didn't design their wheel to be tubeless they are never going to tell you that it will run tubeless. Sometimes those wheels will work tubeless, sometimes they won't. There are extensive lists of people's experiences, a lot of them on MTB forums. Google is your friend.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,883
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 263 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times
in
8 Posts
Are you talking about road or MTB?
Usually when setting up non-tubeless rims tubeless you have to build up the inside of the rim so that the tire can seat to some degree on the inside of the rim. Otherwise you can't keep enough air in the tire to seat the bead - usually takes an air compressor.
Usually when setting up non-tubeless rims tubeless you have to build up the inside of the rim so that the tire can seat to some degree on the inside of the rim. Otherwise you can't keep enough air in the tire to seat the bead - usually takes an air compressor.