Why do people want 1x???
#26
flyover
My Sram Rival front derailleur switches the chain from the big sprocket to the little sprocket and back when I "tell" it to. What else is it supposed to do? Why do people say they don't work? What am I missing?
#28
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Friction front shifting via Gevenalle. Its fast, its accurate, its infinitely trimmable. 0 dropped chains. 0 fuss. 0 chain grinding. 0 maintenance.
I never knew front derailleurs on road bikes(which gravel bikes are) was such an issue that a nuclear option like 1x was needed to correct the issue.
On MTBs- 1x makes sense. I spend most my time in 1 ring on my MTB.
I never knew front derailleurs on road bikes(which gravel bikes are) was such an issue that a nuclear option like 1x was needed to correct the issue.
On MTBs- 1x makes sense. I spend most my time in 1 ring on my MTB.
#29
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Any chance you know if the 8000 works back compatible with 6800 STI shifters and 6800 cranksets? I read 8000 has different stops in the movement due to 8000 cranks having wider ring spacing. All this is because of disc brakes, apparently.
I would figure that new ring spacing means derailleurs with different stop positions, but havent seen this confirmed.
I would figure that new ring spacing means derailleurs with different stop positions, but havent seen this confirmed.
#30
Full Member
I did that on my 39-52 crankset too. I basically never used the big ring.
In my opinion shifting at the front is a bit more cumbersome than shifting at the back but it's not a big problem at all. 1x is simply nicer to use to me. That's about it. I know it sounds dumb but I simply have more fun on my bike with a 1x.
I think 1x is good as an option but some companies are forcing it which is not cool, or talking about it like it's a revolutionary thing.
In my opinion shifting at the front is a bit more cumbersome than shifting at the back but it's not a big problem at all. 1x is simply nicer to use to me. That's about it. I know it sounds dumb but I simply have more fun on my bike with a 1x.
I think 1x is good as an option but some companies are forcing it which is not cool, or talking about it like it's a revolutionary thing.
Last edited by Facanh; 01-04-18 at 11:56 AM.
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Any chance you know if the 8000 works back compatible with 6800 STI shifters and 6800 cranksets? I read 8000 has different stops in the movement due to 8000 cranks having wider ring spacing. All this is because of disc brakes, apparently.
I would figure that new ring spacing means derailleurs with different stop positions, but havent seen this confirmed.
I would figure that new ring spacing means derailleurs with different stop positions, but havent seen this confirmed.
I am using a 9100 front derailleur with 6800 shifters and praxis rings on a rotor 3d+ crankset on my road bike, works great. The only place you have to worry about compatibility is using the 9100 or 8000 crankset with older derailleurs.
#32
Banned
There are fashion trend/ marketing - changes in bikes , 1 by is trendy now..
My 1 by has a Rohloff hub in the back..
My 1 by has a Rohloff hub in the back..
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-06-18 at 02:50 PM.
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Gearing is all about personal preferences.
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I've tried a 1x10 setup a couple of times. I used it for CX racing for a season and had a couple of problems with chain drops (the technology has gotten a lot better since then). I also tried it on a commuter bike and didn't like it. I had a range that worked for my commute, but it required a few cogs that I hardly ever used at the low end, and a bit of spinning at the high end. The high end bothered me most, because even though my top speed didn't matter at all (even to me) I just didn't like the feeling of approaching the limit where I couldn't go much faster even if I wanted to.
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1x is not about gear range, it's about shifting. Front shifting doesn't work as well as rear shifting. Not anyone's brand, not any group. That's why the front shift is the big one and you keep away from it until you have to. Rear shifting just works. 2x is about shifting ratios. Doubles will survive as long as roadies want a corncob in the rear. I pretty much expect triples to disappear, though. The only reason they're surviving on cheaper MTB's is that the Walmart-to-$500 range is a very standard bike with very standard parts and the triple is one of them.
I feel like most people just don't understand the triple mindset. Or maybe it just doesn't appeal to them. I use a triple very much the way everyone else uses a 1xN setup, except I've got a couple of aces in the hole. I do almost all of my riding on the middle ring and then use the small ring as a bailout gear and the big ring when I really want to hammer. I choose my cassette for the gear range I want with the middle ring.
The "equivalent" range argument just doesn't hold water when you look at it like this. Suppose I've got a 50/39/26 crankset with an 11-34 cassette. Using just the 39T ring I've got a range from 32 to 100 gear inches, but when I hit that 32 inch gear and I need a little more help, I can drop to the small ring and go as low as 21 inches. And when I top out on the 39x11 gear and want a little more, I can pop up to the big ring and go as high as 128 inches. I've got the simplicity of a one ring setup, but I've got a LOT more range. What kind of cassette is going to give you this range with a 1x? Even 10x50 doesn't get you there, and if it did (say I'm only comparing to a 50/39/30) I'd have fully one third of my cogs used for parts of the range that I rarely use.
Long live the triple!!!
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In any event...
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This. +30
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#39
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I agree...I have bikes with triples, doubles, and singles. They all have their place. Depends on what you want to do with the bike and where you want to ride it. I would be a sad day if we had fewer choices on how to gear a bicycle.
I really don't why triples are perceived as being clunky and unnecessarily complicated. If you can wrap your head around how to operate a double, a triple isn't any more complicated. Mine have always worked flawlessly. They provide potential for more range and fewer gaps...whats not to like?
I really don't why triples are perceived as being clunky and unnecessarily complicated. If you can wrap your head around how to operate a double, a triple isn't any more complicated. Mine have always worked flawlessly. They provide potential for more range and fewer gaps...whats not to like?
#40
Jet Jockey
Sadly that is not always true. I just bought a Rival 1 mechanical groupset 2 months ago from bike24.
SRAM Rival 22 with brakes: 470 EUR
SRAM Rival 1 with no brakes: 470 EUR
105 5800 with brakes AND a bottom bracket: 460 EUR
And there is of course the price of the cassettes which with the XD driver start from 100 EUR...
Don't sweat it, you will find the "because SRAM can't make a front derailleur" joke in pretty much every 1x vs 2x discussion.
SRAM Rival 22 with brakes: 470 EUR
SRAM Rival 1 with no brakes: 470 EUR
105 5800 with brakes AND a bottom bracket: 460 EUR
And there is of course the price of the cassettes which with the XD driver start from 100 EUR...
Don't sweat it, you will find the "because SRAM can't make a front derailleur" joke in pretty much every 1x vs 2x discussion.
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That's OK. It was funny to me. I'm sorry if I offended you. I really didn't mean to.
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clutch rear derailleurs might be innovative tech, but if you go back to the toeclip era and youll find that 1x drivetrains for cx is nothing new.
#43
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I can see the appeal of this argument, but honestly I have a mental block about it. I feel like my bike is somehow awkwardly asymmetric if I don't have a shifter on both levers. I know this is entirely ridiculous, but it's the way I feel. Even in situations where I know I'm not going to need two chainrings, such as most cyclocross races, I like having multiple chainrings.
I've tried a 1x10 setup a couple of times. I used it for CX racing for a season and had a couple of problems with chain drops (the technology has gotten a lot better since then). I also tried it on a commuter bike and didn't like it. I had a range that worked for my commute, but it required a few cogs that I hardly ever used at the low end, and a bit of spinning at the high end. The high end bothered me most, because even though my top speed didn't matter at all (even to me) I just didn't like the feeling of approaching the limit where I couldn't go much faster even if I wanted to.
I've tried a 1x10 setup a couple of times. I used it for CX racing for a season and had a couple of problems with chain drops (the technology has gotten a lot better since then). I also tried it on a commuter bike and didn't like it. I had a range that worked for my commute, but it required a few cogs that I hardly ever used at the low end, and a bit of spinning at the high end. The high end bothered me most, because even though my top speed didn't matter at all (even to me) I just didn't like the feeling of approaching the limit where I couldn't go much faster even if I wanted to.
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This really makes me sad. I love triples.
I feel like most people just don't understand the triple mindset. Or maybe it just doesn't appeal to them. I use a triple very much the way everyone else uses a 1xN setup, except I've got a couple of aces in the hole. I do almost all of my riding on the middle ring and then use the small ring as a bailout gear and the big ring when I really want to hammer. I choose my cassette for the gear range I want with the middle ring.
Long live the triple!!!
I feel like most people just don't understand the triple mindset. Or maybe it just doesn't appeal to them. I use a triple very much the way everyone else uses a 1xN setup, except I've got a couple of aces in the hole. I do almost all of my riding on the middle ring and then use the small ring as a bailout gear and the big ring when I really want to hammer. I choose my cassette for the gear range I want with the middle ring.
Long live the triple!!!
I really don't why triples are perceived as being clunky and unnecessarily complicated. If you can wrap your head around how to operate a double, a triple isn't any more complicated. Mine have always worked flawlessly. They provide potential for more range and fewer gaps...whats not to like?
It can only ever get adjusted for using two rings. Invariably, one ring just slides the chain off like it's allergic.
No amount of trimming, or clean&lubing the chain helps.
Maybe friction shifters would work.
#45
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4 different LBSs and a Co-Op haven't been able to get my triple working adequately.
It can only ever get adjusted for using two rings. Invariably, one ring just slides the chain off like it's allergic.
No amount of trimming, or clean&lubing the chain helps.
Maybe friction shifters would work.
It can only ever get adjusted for using two rings. Invariably, one ring just slides the chain off like it's allergic.
No amount of trimming, or clean&lubing the chain helps.
Maybe friction shifters would work.
Not like itll be fixed over the internet, but I am always interested to see the setups of those who dont have triples that work. It seems many dont have proper trim options.
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Curious what your crank model and tooth counts are, what your derailleurs are, what speed and range cassette you use, and what your shifters are.
Not like itll be fixed over the internet, but I am always interested to see the setups of those who dont have triples that work. It seems many dont have proper trim options.
Not like itll be fixed over the internet, but I am always interested to see the setups of those who dont have triples that work. It seems many dont have proper trim options.
Or they bought a used bike. True story, my neighbor says his bike isn't shifting right. Pulls out his Leatherman and bends his FD. he also told me his front tire wasn't holding air. He tells me he checked it 8 times and every time he checked it it was lower. (using a car tire pressure gauge)
he has Shimano 50LX rapidfire, I told him he needs to keep the shifter lubed with triflow or similar. Days later he tells me he opened it and filled it with graphite powder.
His career, a mechanic... LOL! Not a bike Mechanic apparently.... hahahah
#47
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... same reason some people prefer single speed, etc.... Improved simplicity/chainlines/fewer moving parts at a cost of some gear range.
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Curious what your crank model and tooth counts are, what your derailleurs are, what speed and range cassette you use, and what your shifters are.
Not like itll be fixed over the internet, but I am always interested to see the setups of those who dont have triples that work. It seems many dont have proper trim options.
Not like itll be fixed over the internet, but I am always interested to see the setups of those who dont have triples that work. It seems many dont have proper trim options.
Bike came with 11/28. It used to always be 30/39 or 39/50 would work. Now it's 30/50. Weird, right?
It has an 11/32 now.
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Sora shifters- less click trim positions than higher level STIs.
At least thats how it was a handful of years ago. Not sure if Shimano changed the design.
At least thats how it was a handful of years ago. Not sure if Shimano changed the design.
#50
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1x on a cyclocross bike is great...so much better than 2x, IMHO. It all has to do with dropping chains and simplicity when in a race or training for a race for me. 1x with a chain keeper up front pretty much ensures the chain won't come off when shouldering the bike, placing the bike back on the ground for a run, riding through muddy pitches while shifting. It's just way easier.
I would not like it for road. I never once had a problem with my Ultegra or etap front shifting on the road.
I would not like it for road. I never once had a problem with my Ultegra or etap front shifting on the road.