My frame/fork stripping fears have vanished
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Tange
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My frame/fork stripping fears have vanished
I got hold of a 1986 Schwinn Prelude cheap, and decided I have a try at stripping it myself (in my 50's, never done one). A liberal coating of aircraft remover, overnight, and about one hour total with the drill and a wire wheel. It came off like chalk from a blackboard. I can't tell if the stamp on the top/steer tube lug is stamped 'G3' or '63' (it IS a 63cm frame). Does anyone have any opinions on a product sold as 'Spray.bike' (https://spraybike.us/)?
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Great job on the paint stripping. I would get an estimate for a powder coating. If the price difference is not big between the spray paint and the cost of the powder coating, let a professional color the frame.
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Powder coating place is dead to me. Quoted me $100.00 last year for a frame and fork, got that one done. Took this one in, they quoted me $150.00 when I dropped by. I then tried to get an online quote, mentioning their quote from last year, they replied saying it would be $160!!
#4
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Powder coating place is dead to me. Quoted me $100.00 last year for a frame and fork, got that one done. Took this one in, they quoted me $150.00 when I dropped by. I then tried to get an online quote, mentioning their quote from last year, they replied saying it would be $160!!
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Powder coating place is dead to me. Quoted me $100.00 last year for a frame and fork, got that one done. Took this one in, they quoted me $150.00 when I dropped by. I then tried to get an online quote, mentioning their quote from last year, they replied saying it would be $160!!
Edit: I'd use Spraymax products before spraybike. They sell a "2k" catalyzed primer and clear which will greatly enhance durability over other rattle can paints. Amazon sells Spraymax.
Last edited by Nessism; 05-26-19 at 06:18 PM.
#6
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I second the 2K clear.
There are youtube videos with Rustoleum paint jobs covered in 2K clear. They are compatible - which is always something to be sure of. I will be trying it someday soon
There are youtube videos with Rustoleum paint jobs covered in 2K clear. They are compatible - which is always something to be sure of. I will be trying it someday soon
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I'd use the 2k primer, some sort of base coat that's compatible (do research), and then seal with the 2k clear. The good primer is important for lasting durability. Before the primer you are going to want to etch the metal with some phosphate. That will make the primer really bite in.
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G3 that's the lug-maker's mark and I don't think a size indication, I can't recall what brand the lugs are but it's Asian, probably Taiwan. I once thought "Eisho" but that's not correct.
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From the examples posted on other threads, the spray.bike finish is OK if you want an unconventional, textured finish. (I know I don't, it looks cheap and weird to me)
I've had good looking - albeit fragile - results doing the strip and rattle can thing on my own (about $80 spent on high quality rattle epoxy and epoxy primer, and 15 -20 hours of my own labor) and just as good looking but much more durable results going with my local powder coater. And zero hours of my own labor. At $135, that was the better deal by a lot.
I've had good looking - albeit fragile - results doing the strip and rattle can thing on my own (about $80 spent on high quality rattle epoxy and epoxy primer, and 15 -20 hours of my own labor) and just as good looking but much more durable results going with my local powder coater. And zero hours of my own labor. At $135, that was the better deal by a lot.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
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From the examples posted on other threads, the spray.bike finish is OK if you want an unconventional, textured finish. (I know I don't, it looks cheap and weird to me)
I've had good looking - albeit fragile - results doing the strip and rattle can thing on my own (about $80 spent on high quality rattle epoxy and epoxy primer, and 15 -20 hours of my own labor) and just as good looking but much more durable results going with my local powder coater. And zero hours of my own labor. At $135, that was the better deal by a lot.
I've had good looking - albeit fragile - results doing the strip and rattle can thing on my own (about $80 spent on high quality rattle epoxy and epoxy primer, and 15 -20 hours of my own labor) and just as good looking but much more durable results going with my local powder coater. And zero hours of my own labor. At $135, that was the better deal by a lot.
#11
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Thanks for the replies, and the info on Spraymax. They've not been on my radar before.
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