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Old 11-09-17, 05:10 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk
Just popped some 36cm bars on my track bike. It's surprising how natural they feel. I think I'll need a longer stem though.
+1
I couldn't get mine to feel completely dialed until I put on a 130mm stem.
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Old 11-09-17, 09:25 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk
Just popped some 36cm bars on my track bike. It's surprising how natural they feel. I think I'll need a longer stem though.
Which ones?
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Old 11-10-17, 07:11 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by topflightpro
Which ones?
Zipp SL70s.

I really prefer traditional bend drops, but I can tolerate these. the reach is a little short for my liking but it'll accommodate a sphinx position - especially with some grippy tape.

They flare a little bit, so are slightly wider at the drop.
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Old 11-10-17, 10:50 PM
  #79  
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Trad bend bar have longer reach compared to more compact bar like the SL70 so it make sense to run a longer stem to compensate for the shorter reach.

I received the Vision track crankset, it comes with single length chainring bolt but they require a T30 torx key (a 4mm allen key can work but be careful) and the nut is the spinny type. Good thing I already planned the dura-ce chainring knurled bolts.
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Old 11-11-17, 07:03 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk
Just popped some 36cm bars on my track bike. It's surprising how natural they feel. I think I'll need a longer stem though.
Originally Posted by kings run east
+1
I couldn't get mine to feel completely dialed until I put on a 130mm stem.
Originally Posted by Godsight
Trad bend bar have longer reach compared to more compact bar like the SL70 so it make sense to run a longer stem to compensate for the shorter reach.

I received the Vision track crankset, it comes with single length chainring bolt but they require a T30 torx key (a 4mm allen key can work but be careful) and the nut is the spinny type. Good thing I already planned the dura-ce chainring knurled bolts.
One of my math major friends in college worked out a formula for adjusting stem length to keep the same total extension fit different width bars. He used it primarily for MTB bars, but it should be just as applicable to road bars as well.

For most proportions, the stem length goes up by 1cm as the bars get 2cm narrower, and vice versa.
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Old 11-11-17, 07:39 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by JimiMimni
One of my math major friends in college worked out a formula for adjusting stem length to keep the same total extension fit different width bars. He used it primarily for MTB bars, but it should be just as applicable to road bars as well.

For most proportions, the stem length goes up by 1cm as the bars get 2cm narrower, and vice versa.
That's an interesting thing that I have definitely left out of my calculations/estimations during fitting. Thanks!
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Old 11-14-17, 04:58 PM
  #82  
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My big upgrade for the season ^_^
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
CorimaWheels.jpg (127.1 KB, 217 views)
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Old 11-14-17, 08:30 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by southernfox
My big upgrade for the season ^_^
Very nice! A lot of teams and people have been switching from Mavic to Corima recently. They say it's faster.
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Old 11-14-17, 09:17 PM
  #84  
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I love the look of the 4-spoke over the 5-spoke. Have been keeping an eye out for an older set of corima 4-spokes to come up cheap, just to rock at club racing.
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Old 11-14-17, 09:37 PM
  #85  
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It's funny these are coming back into fashion. I've been using one since forever, but until recently I assumed it was a second class wheel, cuz it was always about the Mavics. Really don't like the flash left over from the mold along the center seam of these though, can't be very smooth aerodynamically. I've always wondered if it would be structurally ok to remove this.
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Old 11-15-17, 08:27 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke
It's funny these are coming back into fashion. I've been using one since forever, but until recently I assumed it was a second class wheel, cuz it was always about the Mavics. Really don't like the flash left over from the mold along the center seam of these though, can't be very smooth aerodynamically. I've always wondered if it would be structurally ok to remove this.
Somebody told me yes, it's okay to remove 'em, but I haven't done it to mine.

Mine have two different weaves to 'em, so in the offseason I plan to use spray.bike to paint them flat black and add a keirin-inspired sparkle topcoat to 'em. Might sand down the flash when I do that. Might not.
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Old 11-16-17, 10:28 AM
  #87  
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I'm not familiar with their exact manufacturing process but manufacturers using female molds for frame production remove resin flash from their frames along the mold line. As long as you don't end up sanding through fibers that may have gotten pinched in the mold there would be no effect on the structure. I suppose if Corima hasn't bothered to remove it maybe there is a reason.

I've always been a fan of the way the four spoke looks but could never find any aero data on it. Ended up buying a HED3 this season and have been very happy with it so far, maybe not quite as fast as the Zipp 1080 it replaced but the HED3 handles better, even indoors.
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Old 11-16-17, 01:52 PM
  #88  
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Just think of the mold flashing as a "trip strip" that disrupts the vortices coming off the wing section.

Also, if fewer spokes are faster, then someone needs to buy that badass 2 spoke wheel.
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Old 11-17-17, 12:49 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by taras0000
Just think of the mold flashing as a "trip strip" that disrupts the vortices coming off the wing section.
Taras, dumb it down for me: Flash good? Flash bad? Safe for Mongo to remove flash? Remember Mongo wants to keep his face the way it is.
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Old 11-17-17, 02:00 AM
  #90  
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Mongo make Taras laugh.

I got some Deja Vu about this. https://www.bikeforums.net/13996793-post14.html

Originally Posted by Baby Puke
Thanks for the 4-spoke info, Taras. I know they are burly, and I have the special tandem/sprinter/fat guy version, but does anybody know if they're considered fast? I got mine for a reasonable price, and I can't afford anything else, I'm just curious. And that extra molding flash that you mentioned-- has anyone removed this? Is it safe to do so? Seems like that alone would considerably clean up the aerodynamics of the wheel.
Originally Posted by taras0000
The Corima 4 spoke is a fast wheel. I've never ridden 808's, 1080's or Io's so I can't compare to them. They are a quick wheel that spins up fast because of the shallower rim depth. As far as the mold flashing being structural, I couldn't tell you for sure. It's not something that I would file off, as the carbon fibers on the seemed to make it's way into the flash to some degree. This could be an optical illusion due to clear coat over the carbon distorting how it looks. I've never taken a file to it, and wouldn't recommend it. If it has any effect on aerodynamics, I thing that it would be negligible. The french national sprint team used to win races all the time with these wheels so they definitely are performers.
Maybe Mongo leave mold flashing?

But yeah, I wouldn't touch it. If you have very good lighting, you may be able to make out the outer layer of clearcoat and "MAYBE" knock off a little of the edge of the mold flash, but I recall the flash being substantial enough that I wouldn't want to try to fully remove it.

After finding this photo of the hand finishing process that these wheels go through, I would think they would take off what they could at the factory, and leave what is necessary/safe

Last edited by taras0000; 11-17-17 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 11-17-17, 02:16 AM
  #91  
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It sucks, because the flashing on these wheels is quite substantial, and it's not just limited to their wheels. Here is a photo of the Corima Fox TT bike and although smooth, the flash line is quite thick.



It doesn't afflict all their products. they had/have a full carbon rimmed/spokes/hubbed road wheel that is beautifully finished. Like polished smooth. For some reason, they just can't quite nail the airfoil mold.
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Old 11-17-17, 06:36 AM
  #92  
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Thanks, Taras. I knew I'd asked about this before, totally forgot that you'd already given me a detailed answer years ago. Mongo getting old!
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Old 11-18-17, 07:40 PM
  #93  
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A sewing machine.
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Old 11-18-17, 09:22 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by carleton
A sewing machine.
I'm currently looking at picking one up right now. Wife asked me what I want for Christmas and I told her a sewing machine. She laughed and then found out that I want to make a bunch of camping gear for the two of us for a few upcoming backpacking trips this year. Seeing as one of those trips is her and a couple of friends going on a 4 day mountain hike that we had done a few years ago, she immediately put in some requests that would get their pack weights down.
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Old 11-18-17, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by taras0000
I'm currently looking at picking one up right now. Wife asked me what I want for Christmas and I told her a sewing machine. She laughed and then found out that I want to make a bunch of camping gear for the two of us for a few upcoming backpacking trips this year. Seeing as one of those trips is her and a couple of friends going on a 4 day mountain hike that we had done a few years ago, she immediately put in some requests that would get their pack weights down.
Nice!

I got a Singer 4423 Heavy Duty from Amazon for under $150. I went to a local fabric store and got a lot of basic tools, some nice shears, and some fabric with which to practice.

I bought mine because I have a lot of cycling related ideas, projects, and repairs that involves sewing. Being a fat boy, I pop a lot of seams here and there. I've taken kits and skinsuits to seamstresses for alterations or repairs in the past. Basic stuff that I can do myself. Also, my track sack needs some work done to it. I want to modify it to get rid of the features I don't use and add new ones that I will.

Sewing was a mystery to me, then I realized how much I helped my grandmother when she would sew and realized that the basics aren't that hard and I should simply sit down to learn.

So, between 3D printing, sewing, and training, I have enough hobbies to keep me busy for a loooong time.
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Old 11-18-17, 10:55 PM
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Ha, I can get that machine on amazon.ca for 150 Kanuckistanian Pesos! I think I'll grab it. I looked up some reviews and it seems to be able to handle just about anything.
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Old 11-19-17, 02:38 AM
  #97  
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I have an older Singer 328, basic simple machine however does everything I currently am skilled to take on. It was mom's and one of the few material things I kept when she passed on. There is a good post about 10 pages long in the Classic & Vintage section on sewing machines and riders that collect them.

Last edited by m_sasso; 11-19-17 at 02:43 AM.
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Old 11-19-17, 07:41 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Also, my track sack needs some work done to it. I want to modify it to get rid of the features I don't use and add new ones that I will.
I thought you gave your track sack to M.D.?
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Old 11-19-17, 10:09 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by m_sasso
I have an older Singer 328, basic simple machine however does everything I currently am skilled to take on. It was mom's and one of the few material things I kept when she passed on. There is a good post about 10 pages long in the Classic & Vintage section on sewing machines and riders that collect them.
Very nice! I found that thread and subscribed. It's amazing.


Originally Posted by topflightpro
I thought you gave your track sack to M.D.?
I did! He gave it back when I "un-retired"
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Old 11-19-17, 09:31 PM
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I made a nylon pedal strap today. Took me about 2 hours from beginning to end with a lot of re-dos and newb issues. The piece is very solid and functional and has features that the leading BLS strap doesn't. My measurements are off (need it to be longer) and the stitches look really bad, but it works.

I got everything I needed from Home Depot for less than $5. I had some Velcro ($3) from the fabric store. Nuts.

It's like when I strung a tennis racquet for the first time, 2 hrs. After a few times, I was down to about 45 minutes.

I'm really pleased with purchasing a sewing machine!
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