Restoring a vintage Schwinn Paramount
#51
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Thread Starter
Sent a contact to Waterford and got a quick answer from Richard Schwinn himself!
He confirmed 120mm rear spacing and 27.2 seatpost.
I have no doubt that they can refurbish to look even better than original, but I have to think very hard whether or not I want to spend $850. I would have over $1000 invested, frame alone.
He confirmed 120mm rear spacing and 27.2 seatpost.
I have no doubt that they can refurbish to look even better than original, but I have to think very hard whether or not I want to spend $850. I would have over $1000 invested, frame alone.
#52
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Sent a contact to Waterford and got a quick answer from Richard Schwinn himself!
He confirmed 120mm rear spacing and 27.2 seatpost.
I have no doubt that they can refurbish to look even better than original, but I have to think very hard whether or not I want to spend $850. I would have over $1000 invested, frame alone.
He confirmed 120mm rear spacing and 27.2 seatpost.
I have no doubt that they can refurbish to look even better than original, but I have to think very hard whether or not I want to spend $850. I would have over $1000 invested, frame alone.
I'd seal all openings except top tube and pour EvapoRust inside the frame from the top tube, reseal top tube opening or position frame upright and let it stand for three days. Pour the Evapo back in the jug (you can reuse). Then, wax with Mothers cleaner wax to really get an idea of how the paint CAN look.
For stubborn scratches, mars, etc, start with Meguires swirl remover and then progress with 205 and 105 if needed. Rewax.
When you see how well the original Schwinn paint cleans up, you may rethink painting.
#53
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Thread Starter
I took the frame to my LBS and he has a guy that powder coats bike frames, only $250. One of the mechanics wanted to steal it, but fortunately, not his size. Got some wheels from right here on bikeforums. Should have something to show in a couple of weeks.
#54
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1-axle width. From what I could figure out on the massive Sheldon Brown site, about 118mm. Does that sound right for a triple? When checking for sale items, there are lots of widths available.
2-There is everything from new Phil Wood for $150 to Chinese at about $10. And used in between. Any experience with those? I have rebuilt 1970's style sets, but let the LBS deal with the modern one piece sets.
My local swap meet seems to have been cancelled, sad to say.
#55
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BB spindle length and taper depend on the cranks to be used.
Buy Vintage Phil, have the bearings redone by them before building up.
Or, buy Campagnolo "period" Record... made for decades, last for decades.
Buy Vintage Phil, have the bearings redone by them before building up.
Or, buy Campagnolo "period" Record... made for decades, last for decades.
#56
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Reading this thread is making me want to dive into a 1972 P13 that I have sitting here. It is well used , but in overall good to fair shape. There are no dents or funky things about the frame. The components are a variety of things Campy. The derailleurs are Nuovo Record rear and later 3 hole record front ,the wheels are concave Wienmans laced to low flange record hubs with SS spokes. The bar and stem are later model Cinelli, and the seat post is SR. The brakes are Modolo Corsa . The frame has, at some point , been resprayed with a standard Schwinn paint blue which is good, presentable with some touch up done over the years . The head set is Super Record and BB is Campy as well as the cranks . I tried selling it for him as it sits and no takers at $600 so I am thinking of fixing it up and getting it rideable and maybe try to sell it cleaned up. Joe
Last edited by Kabuki12; 02-25-20 at 11:44 AM.
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#57
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I am already into my project, but I would have bought that for $600 in a heartbeat.
#58
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Thread Starter
Good news and bad news.
Good: I got a message from my LBS and my Paramount frame is done and ready for pickup! I have a bottom bracket, crankset and wheels.
Bad: I really don't want to go out for an "unnecessary" trip in public right now. Bummer, 'cause sitting at home, it would give me something to do.
However, I do plan on calling in and paying for my repaint, just help cash flow. The least I can do, I guess.
Good: I got a message from my LBS and my Paramount frame is done and ready for pickup! I have a bottom bracket, crankset and wheels.
Bad: I really don't want to go out for an "unnecessary" trip in public right now. Bummer, 'cause sitting at home, it would give me something to do.
However, I do plan on calling in and paying for my repaint, just help cash flow. The least I can do, I guess.
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#59
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I'm not running unnecessary errands but if the LBS can wheel the bike to the door when you drive up, that risk should be very small. You can pay in advance on the phone to limit contact. Build it up without the repaint for now.
#60
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Thread Starter
I might do that. The repaint is done; just a bare frame right now.
Rain here anyway for the next few days, so I guess it's Tour de Basement.
Rain here anyway for the next few days, so I guess it's Tour de Basement.
#61
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Thread Starter
It's back! My wife and son surprised me and picked it up at the shop.
Today's dilemmas: the headset was removed from the frame and fork for painting. Can I replace this without the special tool?
Still need to figure out the seatpost thing.
Brake reach looks pretty long. I am suspecting that this originally cam with 27 inch wheels, so 700c is farther. 70mm rear, 61mm front. Time to visit Velobase.
Today's dilemmas: the headset was removed from the frame and fork for painting. Can I replace this without the special tool?
Still need to figure out the seatpost thing.
Brake reach looks pretty long. I am suspecting that this originally cam with 27 inch wheels, so 700c is farther. 70mm rear, 61mm front. Time to visit Velobase.
#62
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It's back! My wife and son surprised me and picked it up at the shop.
Today's dilemmas: the headset was removed from the frame and fork for painting. Can I replace this without the special tool?
Still need to figure out the seatpost thing.
Brake reach looks pretty long. I am suspecting that this originally cam with 27 inch wheels, so 700c is farther. 70mm rear, 61mm front. Time to visit Velobase.
Today's dilemmas: the headset was removed from the frame and fork for painting. Can I replace this without the special tool?
Still need to figure out the seatpost thing.
Brake reach looks pretty long. I am suspecting that this originally cam with 27 inch wheels, so 700c is farther. 70mm rear, 61mm front. Time to visit Velobase.
Wasn't it common for Schwinns of the era to have Dia Compe 610's up front and 750's out back? They still make these new, I think.
https://porkchopbmx.com/dia-compe-75...aliper-silver/
https://www.rivbike.com/products/dia...terpull-brakes
#63
Full Member
Nice! Looking forward to seeing it with the fork and replacement decals.
On re-seating the headset, I use a DIY tool of a threaded rod, some big washers, and nuts. Sometimes pushes the parts askew but I go slow and re-position as needed. For the race on the fork, I use a piece of plumbing pipe that is slighter larger in diameter, and longer than, the steerer tube to tap it into place, but always holding things upside-down and NEVER put any pressure on the fork itself.
On re-seating the headset, I use a DIY tool of a threaded rod, some big washers, and nuts. Sometimes pushes the parts askew but I go slow and re-position as needed. For the race on the fork, I use a piece of plumbing pipe that is slighter larger in diameter, and longer than, the steerer tube to tap it into place, but always holding things upside-down and NEVER put any pressure on the fork itself.
#64
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Thread Starter
I don't exactly have a bunch of old plumbing parts laying around. I might take it to the LBS to have him wrestle with it, since took the parts off. I'll buy a new seat and some other stuff.
#65
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On getting a Paramount back up to speed.
#66
Senior Member
Looks great to me. Congratulations. I think that's a big improvement over the 80s era repaint.
If you're taking it to the LBS anyway... The bottom bracket shell should be faced and chased too -- if you're using a conventional (e.g. old Campy) BB. If you've got a Phil Wood BB, it's better to leave the edges painted, plus it looks cooler.
If you're taking it to the LBS anyway... The bottom bracket shell should be faced and chased too -- if you're using a conventional (e.g. old Campy) BB. If you've got a Phil Wood BB, it's better to leave the edges painted, plus it looks cooler.
#67
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Thread Starter
bblair Look closley at the slot in the seat lug, Is the slot wider at the bottom than the top? Then it has probly been tightened with the wrong seatpost in it. If the slot is parallel from bottom to top it may have the seat tube braized in upside down,( the thick end of the tube in the seat lug) then it would most likley need a 26.4 or 26.6 post
I did try to spread slot with a screwdriver, but no way. Not even a little.
There are not very many 26.4mm Campy seatposts out there, but I will look more later. Thanks.
#68
Senior Member
I suggest you have a bike shop deal with the seat tube and seatpost issues. Special tools are needed to do this properly.
If it was sized for 27.2 and has had a 26.4 crammed in there, the slot would be obviously non parallel.
If there's a question as to whether the seat lug has been damaged by an improperly sized post, it should be checked by an experienced (probably older) mechanic and reamed with a properly sized seat tube reamer.
If it was sized for 27.2 and has had a 26.4 crammed in there, the slot would be obviously non parallel.
If there's a question as to whether the seat lug has been damaged by an improperly sized post, it should be checked by an experienced (probably older) mechanic and reamed with a properly sized seat tube reamer.
#69
Full Member
bblair it not the seat lug thats upside down, it's the seat tube. Reynolds 531 seat tube 28.6 outside diameter. It s single butted the wall thickness is .8/.5 the .8 goes at the bb the .5 goes in the seat lug. 28.6 O/D -(.5+.5)= 27.6 - (.2+.2 clearence) = 27.2 seatpost. If the seat tube has the butt up 28.6 - (.8+.8) = 27.0 -(.2 +.2) = 26.6 seatpost. Of the 30,000+ Paramounts produced over the years there probbly 100 like this. Schwinn most likley discovered the problem after the frame was painted when assembling the bike and would have just used a smaller post that fit and sent it out the door.
#70
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Thread Starter
bblair it not the seat lug thats upside down, it's the seat tube. Reynolds 531 seat tube 28.6 outside diameter. It s single butted the wall thickness is .8/.5 the .8 goes at the bb the .5 goes in the seat lug. 28.6 O/D -(.5+.5)= 27.6 - (.2+.2 clearence) = 27.2 seatpost. If the seat tube has the butt up 28.6 - (.8+.8) = 27.0 -(.2 +.2) = 26.6 seatpost. Of the 30,000+ Paramounts produced over the years there probbly 100 like this. Schwinn most likley discovered the problem after the frame was painted when assembling the bike and would have just used a smaller post that fit and sent it out the door.
#71
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#72
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Here is where I am so far: Headset in and fork installed. Also bottom bracket and crankset. Still need some parts.
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#73
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Beautiful bike! I'm looking forward to seeing this build develop.
One thing I found about my recent built project was that even when it looked like it was mostly together, the list of little parts I still needed to get was longer than the list of stuff on the bike - handlebar wrap, cables, brake housing, rear derailleur housing (not the same stuff as brake housing), housing ends, dropout screws, seat tube clamp bolt, etc.
One thing I found about my recent built project was that even when it looked like it was mostly together, the list of little parts I still needed to get was longer than the list of stuff on the bike - handlebar wrap, cables, brake housing, rear derailleur housing (not the same stuff as brake housing), housing ends, dropout screws, seat tube clamp bolt, etc.
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#74
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Beautiful bike! I'm looking forward to seeing this build develop.
One thing I found about my recent built project was that even when it looked like it was mostly together, the list of little parts I still needed to get was longer than the list of stuff on the bike - handlebar wrap, cables, brake housing, rear derailleur housing (not the same stuff as brake housing), housing ends, dropout screws, seat tube clamp bolt, etc.
One thing I found about my recent built project was that even when it looked like it was mostly together, the list of little parts I still needed to get was longer than the list of stuff on the bike - handlebar wrap, cables, brake housing, rear derailleur housing (not the same stuff as brake housing), housing ends, dropout screws, seat tube clamp bolt, etc.
#75
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Thread Starter
Here is where we are so far:
Frame powdercoated, reassembled and decals applied.
Campy record low flange hubs, courtesy BikeForums.net
Suntour 7 speed freewheel, Campy Record front and Chorus (?) derailleurs all from that junk box that we all have in our basements.
Handlebars from my brother Brian's junk box (thanks!). Not sure if I will keep those, probably.
Weinmann centerpull brakes on order via eBay. Only set that I could find with sufficient reach.
To come: seat post, also eBay, but a whack-o size. One of my old Suntour bar end shifters is messed up, so I need to figure it out, or find an old one. Need a seat too.
Complications?: we will see if my old derailleurs have enough range and wrap for my setup.
Frame powdercoated, reassembled and decals applied.
Campy record low flange hubs, courtesy BikeForums.net
Suntour 7 speed freewheel, Campy Record front and Chorus (?) derailleurs all from that junk box that we all have in our basements.
Handlebars from my brother Brian's junk box (thanks!). Not sure if I will keep those, probably.
Weinmann centerpull brakes on order via eBay. Only set that I could find with sufficient reach.
To come: seat post, also eBay, but a whack-o size. One of my old Suntour bar end shifters is messed up, so I need to figure it out, or find an old one. Need a seat too.
Complications?: we will see if my old derailleurs have enough range and wrap for my setup.