Bottom Bracket Seized
#1
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Bottom Bracket Seized
The left pedal didn't drop.
First of all, don't worry, my bike has been repaired. This thread deals with the donor-bike, [FROM] which I obtained the triple JIS crankset.
'What's wrong with this picture?' Should be the caption; you might have missed it, but the left crank arm is sticking up, when gravity should have brought it down. The bottom bracket is seized, something I don't recall ever happening before. Also, somewhat ludicrously , the chain still has the round shape of the chainring, it's completely rusted.
I'm Not sure if this bike has a freewheel or cassette, but it is seven speeds, and if it's cassette, I want it...
I reused the bottom bracket and ball bearings-1 (from my regular daily rider bike) , cleaned it up, regreased with red grease.
My hunch is that this bike had an accident, that the rider wiped out, and probably gave up riding for a while...
My Question is : can Rust cause a Bottom Bracket to Seize ? Or does the bike have to be hit by a car ?
Last edited by hotbike; 04-08-19 at 01:35 PM.
#2
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Man. Well first things first, grab a chain breaker and yank that chain outta there.
If the chain condition is any indication, my guess is the grease has emulsified & caked up from moisture intrusion, age, & weather. The drive side loosens clockwise.
It might be just fine if you can get it out of there to clean up. A BB-UN55 is super cheap, long lasting & sealed if you didn't want to go to the trouble of cleaning/repacking the old one.
If the chain condition is any indication, my guess is the grease has emulsified & caked up from moisture intrusion, age, & weather. The drive side loosens clockwise.
It might be just fine if you can get it out of there to clean up. A BB-UN55 is super cheap, long lasting & sealed if you didn't want to go to the trouble of cleaning/repacking the old one.
#3
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Thread Starter
Yes, I will simply chuck that chain, it can't be salvaged.
Anyway , this is a DONOR bike, I plan to save everything that can be saved, to keep my other bikes running.
The pedal on the floor there, that is also seized. I don't use plastic pedals so that doesn't concern me.
The wheels, unfortunately do not have stainless spokes. But they will make serviceable spares.
Brakes are cantilever, and I generally replace cantilevers with Vee brakes.
I have to take a closer look at the Derailleurs.
The actual problem was, my daily rider needed a new triple , the LBS happened to have only Campagnolo cranks is stock, which has a square BB, so I figured it would fit...
It did fit, BUT Campy BB has a different TAPER ... so it didn't go on all the way... So the past few months, I've been riding in the small and medium chainrings, could NOT shift onto the large ring.
This solved the mismatch. I now have a Campy crankset for sale, real cheap (it black anodized).
Anyway , this is a DONOR bike, I plan to save everything that can be saved, to keep my other bikes running.
The pedal on the floor there, that is also seized. I don't use plastic pedals so that doesn't concern me.
The wheels, unfortunately do not have stainless spokes. But they will make serviceable spares.
Brakes are cantilever, and I generally replace cantilevers with Vee brakes.
I have to take a closer look at the Derailleurs.
The actual problem was, my daily rider needed a new triple , the LBS happened to have only Campagnolo cranks is stock, which has a square BB, so I figured it would fit...
It did fit, BUT Campy BB has a different TAPER ... so it didn't go on all the way... So the past few months, I've been riding in the small and medium chainrings, could NOT shift onto the large ring.
This solved the mismatch. I now have a Campy crankset for sale, real cheap (it black anodized).
#4
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Yes, absolutely! Bearings get moisture and rust solid when not maintained just like any other metal. Like Base2 mentioned, go with sealed bottom bracket bearings, they never rust and last almost forever without needing any kind of adjustments along the way. The last donor I took apart that was rusted up bad included the free wheel and cassette being virtually unusable. Good luck.
#5
Steel is real
Why not strip the BB to see? i had a bike in the same condition due to it was completely rusted out inside there
#6
Banned
Bottom Bracket Seized
Remove it and put something new in
need tools to remove 1 and different ones to put replacement in.. ,
if you want to use a Shimano style cartridge BB..
which are so cheap (un 26) no reason to not ..
...
need tools to remove 1 and different ones to put replacement in.. ,
if you want to use a Shimano style cartridge BB..
which are so cheap (un 26) no reason to not ..
...
#7
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Thread Starter
Congealed Grease and Rust
Son of a gun, you were correct , Base2 !
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Naaa, that will buff right out!
#10
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All I would do is squirt some WD40 on it and it will be good Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#12
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Everything on this bike is stiff or seized . Everything .
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And next the SEATPOST and headset. If that is what the BB looks like you might want to look at the inside of the
seat tube and consider what the rest of the tubing looks like apart from the bearings. BB threads could use a
stiff steel brushing and maybe a BB tap run through to clean out the threads.
seat tube and consider what the rest of the tubing looks like apart from the bearings. BB threads could use a
stiff steel brushing and maybe a BB tap run through to clean out the threads.
#15
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Thread Starter
And next the SEATPOST and headset. If that is what the BB looks like you might want to look at the inside of the
seat tube and consider what the rest of the tubing looks like apart from the bearings. BB threads could use a
stiff steel brushing and maybe a BB tap run through to clean out the threads.
seat tube and consider what the rest of the tubing looks like apart from the bearings. BB threads could use a
stiff steel brushing and maybe a BB tap run through to clean out the threads.
I need some WD40 .
I was using spray can lithium grease, doesn't penetrate well.
The rear wheel rotates, but makes a lot of noise. The QR's are opened, but nothing's budging .
Brakes were seized, I've never had luck with rusted brakes, I buy new ones.
I don't want this frame, I don't know, maybe a wire brush would save the threads, but there is a lot of rust inside the tubes.
I was optimistic on account of the paint, no scratches, no peeling, no blistering...
#16
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Kroil or an ATF/acetone mix will penetrate far better then any grease (which is formulated to not penetrate or migrate). Andy
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AndrewRStewart
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#17
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I see chains like that all the time, the trick is to get them off in one piece, and holding the shape of the drive train. I don't see BB's that bad that often. Was this dropped in the Sound?
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Some we can get going others are scrapped for parts.
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A good bolt cutter makes short work of those fully rusted chains
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The important question is for what model of @hotbike leading edge aero designs will the parts be used for? Pics please
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#22
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M318 Fairing
The crankset had to be put on the bike with the Model 318 Fairing. Pardon the appearance of the barn floor with the straw. I wasn't able to use the big ring of the Campy triple, the Italians have a square taper BB
, but the taper is maybe 0.2mm thicker, so I couldnt use the big ring...
this is my everyday bike, and the panniers carry tools for brush cutting. A little bit of brush cutting in the right places abrogates the need for a Bike Lane. It is strenuous, most people don't do brush cutting as a hobby...
i have other bikes that are perfectly good, for use as spares. The 317 has a neat Tail Box, much more aero than the 318 panniers. But the 317 Front Fairing is much bulkier, and less aerodynamic . I have further improved the Fairing with Integral Panniers concept on the 219. A couple of reasons I changed the first digit from 3 to 2 , it went retro to the prototype 2, which was made of sheet aluminum , not fiberglass.
Keep in mind I use right angles, where any designer could've pickef a random number of radians for stylistic purposes . I want to have the ergo dynamics correct as well as the aerodynamics .
The important question is for what model of @hotbike leading edge aero designs will the parts be used for? Pics please
#23
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M318 Fairing
The crankset had to be put on the bike with the Model 318 Fairing. Pardon the appearance of the barn floor with the straw. I wasn't able to use the big ring of the Campy triple, the Italians have a square taper BB
, but the taper is maybe 0.2mm thicker, so I couldnt use the big ring...
this is my everyday bike, and the panniers carry tools for brush cutting. A little bit of brush cutting in the right places abrogates the need for a Bike Lane. It is strenuous, most people don't do brush cutting as a hobby...
i have other bikes that are perfectly good, for use as spares. The 317 has a neat Tail Box, much more aero than the 318 panniers. But the 317 Front Fairing is much bulkier, and less aerodynamic . I have further improved the Fairing with Integral Panniers concept on the 219. A couple of reasons I changed the first digit from 3 to 2 , it went retro to the prototype 2, which was made of sheet aluminum , not fiberglass.
Keep in mind I use right angles, where any designer could've pickef a random number of radians for stylistic purposes . I want to have the ergo dynamics correct as well as the aerodynamics .
Brush cutting? who would have thought? Maybe the next design can have a chaine powered brush cutter in front of the bike.....combine both hobbies and leave many trails for others
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)