Stuck square taper crank - can't remove using crank puller.
#1
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Stuck square taper crank - can't remove using crank puller.
Hi
I'm trying to remove my crank and it just won't budge. I'm worried about doing damage to the bike. Is there anything I can do to loosen it up - lubrication points? WD-40 etc? I have the right tool as far as I know.
Cheers.
I'm trying to remove my crank and it just won't budge. I'm worried about doing damage to the bike. Is there anything I can do to loosen it up - lubrication points? WD-40 etc? I have the right tool as far as I know.
Cheers.
#2
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Well at least you removed the bolt. A more common mistake than you’d think
Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and allow it to sit overnight. Some say that Kroil works better. Then try again. You might need a cheater bar.
Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and allow it to sit overnight. Some say that Kroil works better. Then try again. You might need a cheater bar.
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Take your remover out and make dead sure that when you replace it, the "plunger" of the tool is hitting the end of the spindle and nothing else; that any washer in there has been removed. If the tool is contacting the crank instead of the spindle, you are just doing your best to destroy the crank. It that is all good and the crank is still stuck, hang around. I am sure there are tricks using penetrating oils, temperature changes, etc. I'm not that source.
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#5
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You've got a stuck crank. Do you want to screw around with a substitute for penetrating oil?
Lean the bike on its side and load that baby up with Kroil or PB Blaster.
Let it soak. After awhile, take a box end wrench or similar and tap the area. You want to "ring" it so the vibrations/capillary action helps get the oil into the tiniest places. No mashing.
Lean the bike on its side and load that baby up with Kroil or PB Blaster.
Let it soak. After awhile, take a box end wrench or similar and tap the area. You want to "ring" it so the vibrations/capillary action helps get the oil into the tiniest places. No mashing.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 04-03-21 at 07:14 PM.
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After you have applied Kroil or PB Blaster a suggested, when you get the crank remover as tight as you dare, hit the end of the puller a sharp blow with a hand sledge, in line with the puller axis. This shock may get the taper to release.
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Huh...well, it's not ...not like proper penetrating oils. Get some of you'll be trying to get that thing off for a week.
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Cheers.
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back in the day i did a lot of motorcycle work. to get a stuck magneto rotor off a tapered crank, we would put a load on the puller tool and give the the end of the tool a wrap with a hammer.
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Yrep, small engine flywheels too. Pound a couple wood wedges under it, run the nut to the top of the crank, a tap on the crank and pop.
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After you remove the bolt, you start riding, but gently. At the moment you sense that the crank starts to loosen, you stop and walk the bike back. It works 100% of time. Yes, you always hear advice never to do it warning of a damage. If you do it gently the damage occurs in 0% of cases.
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After you remove the bolt, you start riding, but gently. At the moment you sense that the crank starts to loosen, you stop and walk the bike back. It works 100% of time. Yes, you always hear advice never to do it warning of a damage. If you do it gently the damage occurs in 0% of cases.
Just take it for a spin around the block. Stay sitting down. If that doesn't budge it, maybe take it up a slight incline. It'll come off eventually.
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If all else fails there is always the Jacob wedges or a ball joint pickle fork, just use them carefully as to not damage the frame
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Came across such a crank yesterday. Reluctant to put too much muscle on the remover and risk stripping out the threads in the crankarm, I kept that tension on it and did a few taps on the remover with a hammer, some heat from a propane torch, a few more taps with some energy behind them, and it came loose. The other side did the same thing so got the same treatment.
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Came across such a crank yesterday. Reluctant to put too much muscle on the remover and risk stripping out the threads in the crankarm, I kept that tension on it and did a few taps on the remover with a hammer, some heat from a propane torch, a few more taps with some energy behind them, and it came loose. The other side did the same thing so got the same treatment.
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Does the ram end of the puller fit in the square hole of the crank? Hard to tell. Probably does but maybe not.
If not, then you are pushing against the crank and not the shaft. That won't work.
If not, then you are pushing against the crank and not the shaft. That won't work.
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It almost looks like its traveling down on the threads. Find a small bolt that drops in with out contacting the threads but still fits inside the square taper. Then try your puller.
#21
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Triflow's thin enough so it may work. Heat up the crank a bit with a hair dryer or heat gun to improve penetration. Have patience and resist the urge to use a cheater bar (unless it's only a foot long).
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#22
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#23
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Yup - had the TriFlow on it over night, then gave 'er. Crank is off. Maybe I just need a night's rest too.
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#25
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Now that I saw it your way, it's hard to un-see it. haha.