Show us your gravel/cross bike...
#2826
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
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Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
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Hi BluesDawg,
It is only in recent times that I have been actively trying to increase my knowledge about bicycles, so I feel as though I know literally nothing about bikes.
So could you please tell me why a low bottom bracket(amongst other things no doubt) makes for a good gravel grinder.
Cheers
It is only in recent times that I have been actively trying to increase my knowledge about bicycles, so I feel as though I know literally nothing about bikes.
So could you please tell me why a low bottom bracket(amongst other things no doubt) makes for a good gravel grinder.
Cheers
Most road bikes have bottom bracket drop in the 70mm vacinity, some are lower, like 75mm. This has been found over time to provide good stability while avoiding crank arm strikes to the pavement in turns. Cyclocross bikes tend to have higher BB drop, traditionally around 60mm, to provide greater ground clearance for obstacles. Gravel riding is more like road riding than it is like cyclocross racing. Larger obstacles are rare and the stability of a low center of gravity is valued with gravel and ruts trying to throw you off your line. This to me is the drawback of cyclocross bikes for general road use or for gravel riding. Compromises that are acceptable under CX racing conditions are less so in uses absent those conditions.
This not to say cyclocross bikes don't make good gravel bikes. But bikes with more roadlike BB height work better. Some recent cyclocross bikes have what has been labeled "American" CX geometry with BB drop around 65mm and slightl slacker angles. For example, the Crux frame I ride has 67mm BB drop. It works well for gravel, but if I had my druthers, I'd prefer 72.5 or 75mm drop and a half degree or so slacker head tube angle. YMMV
#2828
Banned.
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Vegemite Island
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Bikes: 2017 Surly Troll with XT Drive Train, 2017 Merida Big Nine XT Edition, 2016 Giant Toughroad SLR 2, 1995 Trek 830
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Disclaimer - I am not an engineer or a frame geometry expert, so take what I say with a grain of salt.
Most road bikes have bottom bracket drop in the 70mm vacinity, some are lower, like 75mm. This has been found over time to provide good stability while avoiding crank arm strikes to the pavement in turns. Cyclocross bikes tend to have higher BB drop, traditionally around 60mm, to provide greater ground clearance for obstacles. Gravel riding is more like road riding than it is like cyclocross racing. Larger obstacles are rare and the stability of a low center of gravity is valued with gravel and ruts trying to throw you off your line. This to me is the drawback of cyclocross bikes for general road use or for gravel riding. Compromises that are acceptable under CX racing conditions are less so in uses absent those conditions.
This not to say cyclocross bikes don't make good gravel bikes. But bikes with more roadlike BB height work better. Some recent cyclocross bikes have what has been labeled "American" CX geometry with BB drop around 65mm and slightl slacker angles. For example, the Crux frame I ride has 67mm BB drop. It works well for gravel, but if I had my druthers, I'd prefer 72.5 or 75mm drop and a half degree or so slacker head tube angle. YMMV
Most road bikes have bottom bracket drop in the 70mm vacinity, some are lower, like 75mm. This has been found over time to provide good stability while avoiding crank arm strikes to the pavement in turns. Cyclocross bikes tend to have higher BB drop, traditionally around 60mm, to provide greater ground clearance for obstacles. Gravel riding is more like road riding than it is like cyclocross racing. Larger obstacles are rare and the stability of a low center of gravity is valued with gravel and ruts trying to throw you off your line. This to me is the drawback of cyclocross bikes for general road use or for gravel riding. Compromises that are acceptable under CX racing conditions are less so in uses absent those conditions.
This not to say cyclocross bikes don't make good gravel bikes. But bikes with more roadlike BB height work better. Some recent cyclocross bikes have what has been labeled "American" CX geometry with BB drop around 65mm and slightl slacker angles. For example, the Crux frame I ride has 67mm BB drop. It works well for gravel, but if I had my druthers, I'd prefer 72.5 or 75mm drop and a half degree or so slacker head tube angle. YMMV
Heh, I feel like I have so much to learn, it is always good to get this kind of insight.
#2830
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Vancouver,Washington
Posts: 2,280
Bikes: Old steel GT's, for touring and commuting
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I was amazed to discover this new "gravel grinder" category. I used to take my cro-moly Trek Multitrack out on dirt/gravel roads back in 1995 so I know how fun it can be. I've still got one of those old Multitracks and I think it would be a terrific gravel grinder with it's MTB geometry. However, my main bike is shown here. I just got a set of Salsa Cowbell 3 handlebars and I just need to get some V-brake compatible brake levers and I'm going to start going for distance and I also plan to try out gravel grinding.
Nice build!
#2839
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chicago (suburbs)
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Hey Everyone,
I recently took all the Shimano 105 group (compact) off my road bike and replaced it with Ultegra and replaced the wheels and bars. I figured I'd buy a CX frame and put the Mavic Aksiums on it and the 105 group. Compact should be fine for the purpose I'll use the bike for which is riding crushed limestone/gravel converted rail road trails near my home. The 70 mile loop is pretty flat except for some bridges. I'm a little concerned on the size (M/L or 56cm) as with the current 700x25 tires on it now, I'm resting on the top tube when standing over it. Bigger tires are going to increase that a little. I think a M frame would have been best but hopefully this will work.
I already have a flat bar bike with mountain/cx gearing so not too worried about a true CX chain ring. In any case, I picked up this 2013 Giant TCX Advanced SL frame from ebay for about $700 and it's in near perfect condition other than a few paint scratches on the seat post where the seat was mounted lower (in fact I may be close to that point when I fit the bike anyway, and by the rear cassette on the inside of the stay. It also has all internal cable routing which I really liked.
I realize this bike as built by Giant retails for $4,350 due to the SRAM Red gruppo but wondering if you guys think I got a pretty good deal on the frame considering I'm going to slap a 105 set on there. Only thing I need to buy are brakes, a saddle, stem, a set of cross tires, and bar tape.
I recently took all the Shimano 105 group (compact) off my road bike and replaced it with Ultegra and replaced the wheels and bars. I figured I'd buy a CX frame and put the Mavic Aksiums on it and the 105 group. Compact should be fine for the purpose I'll use the bike for which is riding crushed limestone/gravel converted rail road trails near my home. The 70 mile loop is pretty flat except for some bridges. I'm a little concerned on the size (M/L or 56cm) as with the current 700x25 tires on it now, I'm resting on the top tube when standing over it. Bigger tires are going to increase that a little. I think a M frame would have been best but hopefully this will work.
I already have a flat bar bike with mountain/cx gearing so not too worried about a true CX chain ring. In any case, I picked up this 2013 Giant TCX Advanced SL frame from ebay for about $700 and it's in near perfect condition other than a few paint scratches on the seat post where the seat was mounted lower (in fact I may be close to that point when I fit the bike anyway, and by the rear cassette on the inside of the stay. It also has all internal cable routing which I really liked.
I realize this bike as built by Giant retails for $4,350 due to the SRAM Red gruppo but wondering if you guys think I got a pretty good deal on the frame considering I'm going to slap a 105 set on there. Only thing I need to buy are brakes, a saddle, stem, a set of cross tires, and bar tape.
Last edited by Gus90; 04-13-14 at 08:57 AM.
#2840
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Overland Park, Ks
Posts: 305
Bikes: 1985 Cannondale SR300, 1987 Canonndale SR800 Black Lightning, 1988 Cannondale SR500 TEAM CREST,1992 Schwinn Paramount PDG Series 3, Volume V6 Cutter,
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Heres my Dirty Kanza 200 / Almazo race bike. 2014 Kona Rove with custom florescent orange with rainbow metallic flake powder coating. Selle Anatomica saddle and bar tape, Thomson post and stem, Bags by Swift Industries. Clement X'Plor USH tires. Whiskey Parts Fork with Chris King headset.
#2846
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Thanks!
Those are generic aluminum handlebars. I think they have something like 90mm of rise and 8-9 degrees of pull-back and maybe 60mm wide. I've replaced them with a Profile Design bar that is 60mm rise, 9 degree sweep and 66cm wide. I picked up an 83-84 MTB on Craigslist and I really found the 69cm wide bar to be comfortable (not useable on my bike due to odd clamp area size) so today I ordered a bar with about 40mm of rise, 9 degrees sweep and 74cm wide!! I'll see how I like them.
Those are generic aluminum handlebars. I think they have something like 90mm of rise and 8-9 degrees of pull-back and maybe 60mm wide. I've replaced them with a Profile Design bar that is 60mm rise, 9 degree sweep and 66cm wide. I picked up an 83-84 MTB on Craigslist and I really found the 69cm wide bar to be comfortable (not useable on my bike due to odd clamp area size) so today I ordered a bar with about 40mm of rise, 9 degrees sweep and 74cm wide!! I'll see how I like them.
#2847
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Heres my Dirty Kanza 200 / Almazo race bike. 2014 Kona Rove with custom florescent orange with rainbow metallic flake powder coating. Selle Anatomica saddle and bar tape, Thomson post and stem, Bags by Swift Industries. Clement X'Plor USH tires. Whiskey Parts Fork with Chris King headset.
#2849
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Overland Park, Ks
Posts: 305
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The Zeitgeist bag is very big. When I commute to work I only use the Zeitgeist and Paloma bar bag. I can fit my entire change of clothing in the saddle bag alone, including shoes if they can be smashed down. Each side pocket is the perfect size for 1 tube in box plus a CO2. The quality of all Swift Industries bags are outstanding. I really mean that, some might see them as pricey but I have never owned a better bag. They just feel strong and well made (they arnt light but at the same time they dont feel too heavy). Depending on what you are doing or planning I would suggest going with the small Zeitgeist. The large really is made for touring. In comparison the small is about the perfect size for a 6 pack of beer (cans). I can fit 8 beers plus my tool roll in the large haha. I cant speak to the waterproof abilities, I havent been caught in anything more then a light drizzle. If you are curious about anything more specific ask away!
#2850
Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz
Join Date: Oct 2006
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i love my swift bags.
i also love being in the same town and going on lovely adventures with that whole crew.
rad rove, love the powdah!
i also love being in the same town and going on lovely adventures with that whole crew.
rad rove, love the powdah!