Jhandrews

Recently bought a older Santana steel frame tandem, when I was putting a new tire on the rear I noticed fractures on the wheel around several spoke nipples. Obviously I need to replace the wheel hoop, spokes And hub appear to be in good order. Any suggestions on a good hoop that’s not expensive? Money is tight do to the pandemic. I found these curious if they are good since I’m new and can’t post a link I found them on eBay there sun ringle me14a msw aluminum eyeletted. Any input would be appreciated.

L134 

Only because you mention money is tight, if the wheels are true I’m not sure I’d be in any particular rush to rebuild depending on the type of riding, team weight and how serious/many the cracks. Depending on how old the Santana, what 40 or 48 spokes? Personally, I might want to wait and monitor the wheels until $ not so tight and get the wheel I want rather than try to go cheap now?

Jhandrews

We aren’t to serious of riders. More flat riding not any crazy big hills in are area and about a 330 weight team. It’s a 40 spoke didn’t really plan on upgrading the wheels just want something I don’t have to worry about.

joeruge

If money is tight, I agree with the suggestion of L124. Ride the bike (carry your cell phone, just in case!) and monitor the cracks. A rear wheel failure is not likely to be dangerous, just inconvenient - hence the cell phone to call for a pickup.

If you want to use the current spokes and hub, particularly if you want to build up the wheel yourself, the easiest and probably cheapest way to do it is to get the exact same rim. This way you know the spokes are going to be the correct length.

If you have the exact same rim, orient it correctly, tape it to your current wheel, loosen all the spokes, maybe each two full turns. Then one by one transfer each spoke from the old wheel to the new rim. Eazy-peazey!

I just this this yesterday for a front wheel that I crushed in a pot-hole on our way to Saguaro National Park on Sunday. I just happened to have a matching 40h Dyad. Took about an hour to transfer the spokes and maybe another two to true it up nice and tight.

As for the Sun ME14A rim; That's a pretty lightweight rim. It's the rim I use (if I can find them) when I want to build a lightweight but fairly cheap set of wheels for my CF road bike. It's also a pretty narrow rim. You might want to check to see if it is recommended for a tire as wide as you might want to ride with on the tandem.

Dyads are a pretty lightweight option for everyday wheels for a tandem. If price is more of an issue than weight, there are probably other options out there that might be less expensive. But for everyday wheels for a tandem, you probably don't want to use a rim lighter than Dyads.

But again, unless you can match the ERD (effective rim diameter, so you can use the same spokes) of another brand rim, just get the same kind to save some dough.

I realize that as a 'newbie' Some of this stuff may be a little baffling. Have no fear! We are here to help, or perhaps only further confuse.

fietsbob

Ferruled rim or nips just go thru a hole.. ?

if you do get the same ERD rim, taping new to old and moving the spokes over with out disturbing the pattern, simplifies the job..

Jhandrews

nips just go thru hole.
the wheels that are on it are sun chinook

fietsbob

Next time get ferruled* rims , I added washers inside the rim and used a little longer spoke to compensate for the washer thickness
these are the wheels on my studded tire MTB.

I have built tandem 40/48 spoke wheels for my touring bike Sun Rhyno the not light, are pretty thick on the inside where the spoke holes go.
[built 25 years ago, IDK current inventories..]
* ferrules are essentially small grommets , folded over once they're thru the hole .. they spread out the force a little..