Replace chain or not?
#1
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Replace chain or not?
My chain is "stretched" and the cassette shows signs of wear. If I just replace the chain, I think I will have shifting issues so then I will need to replace the cassette as well. On the other hand, the bike is shifting fine for now. Should I wait until the shifting goes bad then replace both? Any harm in doing that?
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There is stretched and then there is s t r e c h e d, as said above you can be penny wise and pound foolish.
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My chain is "stretched" and the cassette shows signs of wear. If I just replace the chain, I think I will have shifting issues so then I will need to replace the cassette as well. On the other hand, the bike is shifting fine for now. Should I wait until the shifting goes bad then replace both? Any harm in doing that?
The price you pay is slower shifting, more chance of the chain to break, and, like mentioned, increased wear of the chainrings and sprockets.
When to replace the chain on a bicycle? - Bike Gremlin - Bicycles
#5
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Very true. The teeth on a chain ring only wear more slowly than those on a cassette/freewheel because there are often more teeth, and more teeth engaged to share the load. An elongated chain will only accelerate it's wear rate.
Shifting with a worn chain and worn teeth is often good.
Brad
Shifting with a worn chain and worn teeth is often good.
Brad
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How are you determining wear on your cassette?
I've been fooling around with bikes for decades and I can't determine cassette wear by looking at it. My test is to replace the chain and take the bike for a test ride. If I don't get skipping in my most commonly used cogs, I assume the cassette is still OK.
While we are on the topic of determining wear, what makes you think that your chain is stretched? If you're using one of those little chain checker thingies I'd calibrate it against a brand new chain before I took it's reading for gospel.
I've been fooling around with bikes for decades and I can't determine cassette wear by looking at it. My test is to replace the chain and take the bike for a test ride. If I don't get skipping in my most commonly used cogs, I assume the cassette is still OK.
While we are on the topic of determining wear, what makes you think that your chain is stretched? If you're using one of those little chain checker thingies I'd calibrate it against a brand new chain before I took it's reading for gospel.
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My chain is "stretched" and the cassette shows signs of wear. If I just replace the chain, I think I will have shifting issues so then I will need to replace the cassette as well. On the other hand, the bike is shifting fine for now. Should I wait until the shifting goes bad then replace both? Any harm in doing that?
As others have mentioned measure 11 or 12" of the chain with a steel rule. A new chain will measure 12". Once it's stretched to about 12 3/32" it's time to replace.
#13
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In my opinion chain checkers are helpful in a shop situation, where one does not have the luxury of getting down and dirty with every customer's chain and a ruler, or perhaps for those with a huge stable of bikes, all of which are ridden thousands of miles per year. Other than that they're just another pretty tool for the board.
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Sure enough the new chain jumped like crazy (old chain ran fine, but was rusting). So, as per Sheldon's advice, I simply swapped the direction of the cogs, aside from the lockring cog. Chain and drivetrain are perfect now, aside from the tallest gear which still skips.
Point is, I stared and stared at these cogs for a long time, and I couldn't for the life of me discern any difference between the worn side and the 'good' side.