New shifter cables not working
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New shifter cables not working
I am a rather newbie to bicycle mechanics. Have changed shifter cables and housing on my hybrid bike a few times without any problems. Now I try to replace my shifter cables on my Cannondale Caad9 roadbike (Shimano Ultegra FD6600 groupset). Think the limit screws are rather properly adjsuted ( I am able to move the shifter with my hand to all cogs). But when attaching the cable rather tight nothing works. Using the shifter there is no gearing. I guess I do some basic mistakes. I can feel the cable getting more tense and loosen when i use the shifter, but there is no movement in the derailleur. And I am only able to make 3-4 “clicks” in the shifter. Should the cable be supersupertight when its attached? Any ideas where to start to solve this?
Manual check of adjsument
Manual check of adjsument
#2
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Make sure the cable isn't wrapped around or snagged on anything. Make sure it is routed correctly.
Loosen the pinch bolt pull the cable taut and pull the cable by clicking the shifter see does it move smoothly.
Start with the shifter in the lowest gear.
Then pull the cable taut and tighten the pinch bolt.
If the limit screws where correct to begin with they should still be.
Loosen the pinch bolt pull the cable taut and pull the cable by clicking the shifter see does it move smoothly.
Start with the shifter in the lowest gear.
Then pull the cable taut and tighten the pinch bolt.
If the limit screws where correct to begin with they should still be.
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Limit screws are something that when set correctly, they should never need to be touched again. So don't if you haven't already. Certainly not for just a cable change.
This DM is for the next model higher than yours, but it probably will get you started in the right direction. Might need to go back to square one though and start at the very beginning.... you know... Sound of Music... Do, re, mi ? <grin>
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-24-ENG.pdf
But I suspect you simply had the chain in the wrong rear gear when you put the cable through the hold fast.
This DM is for the next model higher than yours, but it probably will get you started in the right direction. Might need to go back to square one though and start at the very beginning.... you know... Sound of Music... Do, re, mi ? <grin>
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-24-ENG.pdf
But I suspect you simply had the chain in the wrong rear gear when you put the cable through the hold fast.
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Limit screws are something that when set correctly, they should never need to be touched again. So don't if you haven't already. Certainly not for just a cable change.
This DM is for the next model higher than yours, but it probably will get you started in the right direction. Might need to go back to square one though and start at the very beginning.... you know... Sound of Music... Do, re, mi ? <grin>
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-24-ENG.pdf
But I suspect you simply had the chain in the wrong rear gear when you put the cable through the hold fast.
This DM is for the next model higher than yours, but it probably will get you started in the right direction. Might need to go back to square one though and start at the very beginning.... you know... Sound of Music... Do, re, mi ? <grin>
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-24-ENG.pdf
But I suspect you simply had the chain in the wrong rear gear when you put the cable through the hold fast.
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+1 I also expect this is your problem. You have to upshift the rear shifter several times to assure the shifter is in it's most "relaxed" position and the cable is extended as fully as possible. Only then do you attach it to the derailleur clamp, pull the cable snug and tighten the clamp bolt. Then use the barrel adjuster until it shifts properly.
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No, it should not. The cable should be snug when you tighten down the pinch bolt on the derailleur. As others have pointed out, you might have missed the basic steps of setting the chain in the correct position (big ring, small cog) and setting the shifter to its correct position (where it will be when on the smallest cog). Then you set your barrel adjuster all the way down, so that you can fine-tune to add tension later if needed.
I highly recommend the Park Tool youtube channel. They should have several videos that will cover setting up a rear derailleur for indexed shifting.
Also, make sure that cable isn't touching your bike stand. It looks awfully close in one of the photos.
I highly recommend the Park Tool youtube channel. They should have several videos that will cover setting up a rear derailleur for indexed shifting.
Also, make sure that cable isn't touching your bike stand. It looks awfully close in one of the photos.
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No, it should not. The cable should be snug when you tighten down the pinch bolt on the derailleur. As others have pointed out, you might have missed the basic steps of setting the chain in the correct position (big ring, small cog) and setting the shifter to its correct position (where it will be when on the smallest cog). Then you set your barrel adjuster all the way down, so that you can fine-tune to add tension later if needed.
I highly recommend the Park Tool youtube channel. They should have several videos that will cover setting up a rear derailleur for indexed shifting.
Also, make sure that cable isn't touching your bike stand. It looks awfully close in one of the photos.
I highly recommend the Park Tool youtube channel. They should have several videos that will cover setting up a rear derailleur for indexed shifting.
Also, make sure that cable isn't touching your bike stand. It looks awfully close in one of the photos.
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Anyhoo, same rationale applies to the front: cable should be snug (not "supersupertight") and it should be possible to add tension at the barrel adjuster later, if needed. And (obviously) the most relaxed position for the front is over the inner chainring. Consult YouTube for more detailed guidance.
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Make sure the cable isn't wrapped around or snagged on anything. Make sure it is routed correctly.
Loosen the pinch bolt pull the cable taut and pull the cable by clicking the shifter see does it move smoothly.
Start with the shifter in the lowest gear.
Then pull the cable taut and tighten the pinch bolt.
If the limit screws where correct to begin with they should still be.
Loosen the pinch bolt pull the cable taut and pull the cable by clicking the shifter see does it move smoothly.
Start with the shifter in the lowest gear.
Then pull the cable taut and tighten the pinch bolt.
If the limit screws where correct to begin with they should still be.
No, it should not. The cable should be snug when you tighten down the pinch bolt on the derailleur. As others have pointed out, you might have missed the basic steps of setting the chain in the correct position (big ring, small cog) and setting the shifter to its correct position (where it will be when on the smallest cog). Then you set your barrel adjuster all the way down, so that you can fine-tune to add tension later if needed.
I highly recommend the Park Tool youtube channel. They should have several videos that will cover setting up a rear derailleur for indexed shifting.
Also, make sure that cable isn't touching your bike stand. It looks awfully close in one of the photos.
I highly recommend the Park Tool youtube channel. They should have several videos that will cover setting up a rear derailleur for indexed shifting.
Also, make sure that cable isn't touching your bike stand. It looks awfully close in one of the photos.
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Problem solved
There seem to be a very obvious cause to the problems with the rear derailleur: the bike repair stand. I thought I had no places where the bike stand made problem, but I realized the cables couldnt move properly under the frame due to the pressure between the frame and bike stand. I was aware this pressure under the down tube (had to build a Lego "adapter" to create space). When hanging the frame from the roof I was able to get the shifters operating. Now on the front derailleur!