Not sure how to remove this cassette
#1
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Not sure how to remove this cassette
The bike is around a '93 Specialized 7 speed. I'm trying to remove this cassette but not sure how. The removal tool does not fully drop into the cassette due to a lip or something just beneath the locking ring. With only about a 2mm drop into the locking ring the tool is very loose. Do I need a different tool or is there another way to remove this cassette?
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The bike is around a '93 Specialized 7 speed. I'm trying to remove this cassette but not sure how. The removal tool does not fully drop into the cassette due to a lip or something just beneath the locking ring. With only about a 2mm drop into the locking ring the tool is very loose. Do I need a different tool or is there another way to remove this cassette?
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Yes, the right tool has a protruding rod that will insert into the quick release axle hole.
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#6
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Yeah they look the same but the diameters are slightly different. I wish they were all made the same...
Last edited by RockiesDad; 05-15-18 at 01:16 PM.
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https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-removers.html
FREEWHEEL REMOVERS
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Unless you are going to do it often, a bike shop might loosen it for you cheaper than getting a new tool or even free. Buy a pair of socks or something there to help them out.
You don't need a tool to put a freewheel on. The pedaling will tighten it plenty.
You don't need a tool to put a freewheel on. The pedaling will tighten it plenty.
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Jon
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OP has a cassette. It won't tighten itself on with riding.
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The bike is around a '93 Specialized 7 speed. I'm trying to remove this cassette but not sure how. The removal tool does not fully drop into the cassette due to a lip or something just beneath the locking ring. With only about a 2mm drop into the locking ring the tool is very loose. Do I need a different tool or is there another way to remove this cassette?
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Unless you are going to do it often, a bike shop might loosen it for you cheaper than getting a new tool or even free. Buy a pair of socks or something there to help them out.
Likewise go back and let them tighten the new cassette...... maybe you need more socks or new cup holder.
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Okay.....
Unless you are going to do it often, a bike shop might loosen it for you cheaper than getting a new tool or even free. Buy a pair of socks or something there to help them out.
Likewise go back and let them tighten the new cassette...... maybe you need more socks or new cup holder.
Unless you are going to do it often, a bike shop might loosen it for you cheaper than getting a new tool or even free. Buy a pair of socks or something there to help them out.
Likewise go back and let them tighten the new cassette...... maybe you need more socks or new cup holder.
#14
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If your local bike store is not cool (or you don't need socks) a chain whip and cassette removal tool is about $13 shipped on ebay. Good tools to have in your collection as cassettes are still used on all bikes today.
#15
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Here's an alternative to the chain whip that I find easier to use:
#16
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One more quick question... can I use any of the new 7-speed cassettes? Are they all interchangeable on my hub? Its a tri-color Shimano 600 with 127mm spacing. Thanks again...
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(There are several gotchas if you want to make other modifications, such as 8 or 9-speed. 7-speed to 7-speed is no problem.)
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RockiesDad,
Not sure, if you have managed to change out your cassette yet already. But, I encountered the exact issue the other day in the shop. In the end, to help the customer, I removed the axle from the non-drive side so that I could seat the removal tool deep enough. Your drive side cone/lock nut basically has a washer in place that is too large of a diameter to allow your cassette removal tool to sit deep enough. Once you have the axle out, you can swap out that over sized washer with one that has a smaller outer diameter that won't prevent the tool sitting at the correct depth.
You can kind of just see the edges of the washer that I am talking about in your second picture. It is a ring behind the edges of the lock nut. If you do replace that washer, just make sure the outer diameter is small enough for the edges of the removal tool to pass by freely and that the thickness of the replacement washer is the same.
You might have luck if you put in a quick release skewer to hold the cassette removal tool in place. My customer's lock ring had a lot of corrosion and was not budging at all with that trick. Had to use a liberal application of penetrating oil even after the removal of his axle and having the removal tool seated all the way.
Not sure, if you have managed to change out your cassette yet already. But, I encountered the exact issue the other day in the shop. In the end, to help the customer, I removed the axle from the non-drive side so that I could seat the removal tool deep enough. Your drive side cone/lock nut basically has a washer in place that is too large of a diameter to allow your cassette removal tool to sit deep enough. Once you have the axle out, you can swap out that over sized washer with one that has a smaller outer diameter that won't prevent the tool sitting at the correct depth.
You can kind of just see the edges of the washer that I am talking about in your second picture. It is a ring behind the edges of the lock nut. If you do replace that washer, just make sure the outer diameter is small enough for the edges of the removal tool to pass by freely and that the thickness of the replacement washer is the same.
You might have luck if you put in a quick release skewer to hold the cassette removal tool in place. My customer's lock ring had a lot of corrosion and was not budging at all with that trick. Had to use a liberal application of penetrating oil even after the removal of his axle and having the removal tool seated all the way.
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Last edited by *Scuba; 05-16-18 at 11:08 PM.
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In the shop, freewheel/cassette removal tools are one and the same. There are loads of different designs and types of interfaces. For example, what if a customer came into the shop with a lower end bike that has a freehub but solid axle, if I only had the removal tool that has the protrusion to fit into the hollow axle, it actually means I won't be able to help them, unless I take the axle out of the hub.
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#20
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RockiesDad,
Not sure, if you have managed to change out your cassette yet already. But, I encountered the exact issue the other day in the shop. In the end, to help the customer, I removed the axle from the non-drive side so that I could seat the removal tool deep enough. Your drive side cone/lock nut basically has a washer in place that is too large of a diameter to allow your cassette removal tool to sit deep enough. Once you have the axle out, you can swap out that over sized washer with one that has a smaller outer diameter that won't prevent the tool sitting at the correct depth.
You can kind of just see the edges of the washer that I am talking about in your second picture. It is a ring behind the edges of the lock nut. If you do replace that washer, just make sure the outer diameter is small enough for the edges of the removal tool to pass by freely and that the thickness of the replacement washer is the same.
Not sure, if you have managed to change out your cassette yet already. But, I encountered the exact issue the other day in the shop. In the end, to help the customer, I removed the axle from the non-drive side so that I could seat the removal tool deep enough. Your drive side cone/lock nut basically has a washer in place that is too large of a diameter to allow your cassette removal tool to sit deep enough. Once you have the axle out, you can swap out that over sized washer with one that has a smaller outer diameter that won't prevent the tool sitting at the correct depth.
You can kind of just see the edges of the washer that I am talking about in your second picture. It is a ring behind the edges of the lock nut. If you do replace that washer, just make sure the outer diameter is small enough for the edges of the removal tool to pass by freely and that the thickness of the replacement washer is the same.
Looking more into different tools I think there might be two different diameters for these locking rings. One size is Park Tool FR-5.2 which is 23.4mm and FR-1.3 which is 22.6mm. Both sizes are for Shimano. Got figure...
https://www.parktool.com/product/cas...ng-tool-fr-5-2
https://www.parktool.com/product/fre...remover-fr-1-3
I'm liking my LBS more and more. There is an old-school shop around here that might have this particular size tool. I might just go there and see what he says. I'll ever get the new cassette from him if he as one...
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Hi Ghrumpy and andrewclaus,
In the shop, freewheel/cassette removal tools are one and the same. There are loads of different designs and types of interfaces. For example, what if a customer came into the shop with a lower end bike that has a freehub but solid axle, if I only had the removal tool that has the protrusion to fit into the hollow axle, it actually means I won't be able to help them, unless I take the axle out of the hub.
In the shop, freewheel/cassette removal tools are one and the same. There are loads of different designs and types of interfaces. For example, what if a customer came into the shop with a lower end bike that has a freehub but solid axle, if I only had the removal tool that has the protrusion to fit into the hollow axle, it actually means I won't be able to help them, unless I take the axle out of the hub.
There are two cassette lock ring "standards" of which I'm familiar. Shimano's and Campagnolo's. Shimano's cassette lock ring pattern is also used for some of their brake disc lock rings. Campagnolo's lock ring tool is also used to install and remover some of their square taper bottom brackets.
The lock ring tool with the hollow axle guide pin (Park FR-5.2G) has the same spline pattern as the one without (Park FR-5.2). I have both, and any decent shop should too. They only cost a few bucks. That being said, IME there are precious few solid axle hubs that use a freehub/cassette.
@RockiesDad , you need the Park FR-5.2, which as it says in the product description, is for cassette lock rings. It will not fit freewheels. As previously noted, you will also need a chain whip to hold the freehub from turning while you remove the lock ring.
The Park FR-1.3, as it says in the product description, is for freewheels. It will not fit cassette lock rings. You do not need that for this situation. Ignore the fact that they are both Shimano. Shimano have used three different multiple-freewheel removal interfaces over the years, and a different one for single-cog freewheels. None of them are compatible with their cassette lock ring interface.
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The axle has nothing to do with it @*Scuba. OP was trying to use the freewheel tool on a cassette lockring, and they're not compatible with each other. The FR-5 is the correct one for cassettes.
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The axle has nothing to do with it @*Scuba. OP was trying to use the freewheel tool on a cassette lockring, and they're not compatible with each other. The FR-5 is the correct one for cassettes.
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Hmm, I went down into the basement to double-check my statement. I can't get my FR-5 into the splines of an MF-Z012 or MZ-TZ20 freewheel, nor can I get the FR-1 into any of my HG50 or HG70 (7-speed in all cases) lockrings. Did Park used to make these tools a little looser fit in the past or something?
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True! But not compatible with Shimano's freewheels or cassette lock rings. Might look like it, but you might end up sorry you tried it. They're easy to distinguish: The Campagnolo tool has a hole big enough to go over a BB spindle. The Shimano does not.