rumrunn6

if I just want to adjust the front derailer inner limit screw so that the derailer moves a mm or two away from the frame, meaning outward, to the right

does anyone know, off the top of your head:

1- which way do I turn the screw?
2- do I need to have the chain in any special place, meaning like on the small front chainring? & or the big rear chainring?

fietsbob

only rarely are machine screw threads left handed so ... tighty righty , clockwise..

Bill Kapaun

I'd suggest holding the FDER over with one hand to relieve tension on the screw. It saves threads in the FDER body.
It's relatively soft aluminum & steel threads tend to wear it badly when screwed under tension.
It's a limit screw, not a jacking screw.

dsbrantjr

Put the chain in big rear, small front, closest inboard. Adjust the screw, following Bill Kapaun's suggestion, until there is 1mm max clearance from the chain at its nearest point in the crank's revolution. You will normally not need to move it again.

rumrunn6

I brought it up due to derailer rubbing tire occasionally under load

narrated my answer into my phone w/ a screw driver on the correct screw: on this bike, it's he outside screw the one marked low clockwise moves it out away from the bike counter clockwise moves it left toward the frame

Bill Kapaun

Nice, dry chain.
Only slight rust.
Grind, grind.

rumrunn6

Ignore the chain location in that photo cuz it’s on the small sprocket in the back. Or I tugged in the chain to see the other part So I adjusted the screw & deflated & massaged the tire so it wobbles less seems better . Took it out in the parking lot for testing before it got dark, including a climb, under load, in lowest gears front & rear no rubbing. Isn’t a lot of room tho & if the skewer loosens the wheel can rotate it into the derailer which has happened cpl times so I’m keeping an eye on that skewer tension too

rumrunn6

Thanks guys sensible tips

rumrunn6

I had a real mud fest last time out so I washed everything & let it dry. I just lubed it up before the test ride

JoeTBM 

I'd wipe that chain down real good and re-lube, if you still have that amount of rust oozing from the rollers then repeat again.

rumrunn6

sorry about those large pics. was working with just my phone. that's a really difficult area to photo. took another look this am. chain on both inner rings front & rear & w/o touching chain rotated tire to closest pass. doesn't wobble as much so I'm glad about that & this clearance I think is usable. also used a rotary grindstone on my drill to trim back a mm off the black part that was like folded over & protruding toward the tire (even tho this isn't where the actual rubbing was happening, it was rubbing on the silver part)

rumrunn6

ran out last night. gotta buy another bottle

Retro Grouch 

Think before you screw.

1. Was it ever right? Derailleur limit screws, once set correctly, seldom need readjustment.
2. If it only happens when under load, the grinding you hear is probably due to bottom bracket movement.

djb

old rag, put some elbow grease into the wiping. relube as said, and repeat until rust goes away, even if it never sleeps.

like horses, dont put chains away wet and unlubed.

before anyone asks, my fav horse lube is "TriggerLube", regularly get 5000kms out of a set of shoes.

rumrunn6

hmmm, trying to remember. bought the bike used. my riding has gotten progressively more aggressive on steeper terrain. like I mentioned the left rear dropout wiggled out causing the wheel to pivot right & jam. dunno if that best the derailer a smidge. making it more susceptible to rubbing again. every time I mount those tires I have to massage them a lot to get them on w/o too much wobble. since I bought the bike I never adjusted the limit screws. is a little bottom bracket movement OK or should I be looking for other symptoms for replacing it?

fietsbob

catching up.... I'm seeing the typical issue..

A trade off of fat knobby tire, + short chainstay bikes, grind off offending knob rubber ...

or just put a tire on without that interference..








..

rumrunn6

hehe that thought occurred to me too! wondering if a sharp utility knife might work better than a rotary tool for that. or maybe one of these

trailangel

"Think before you screw" ... that's funny.
BikerBob had a good idea.... cut the tire down..... I like that idea.
Also...in cases like this where you just need a bit more clearance... I use an adjustable Crescent wrench and pliers and tweak the front DR in the right place.

fietsbob

maybe one of those reciprocating 2 blade motorized carving knives?

... that only get used for the big holiday birds.. charity shop search should find some







...

Bill Kapaun

I'd probably use my 3" cut off wheel....outside.

Like this-
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-H...ool-63023.html

rumrunn6

I tried but the thing just flexes, doesn't bend & not sure I want to take two tools to it

trailangel

It's a cheap DR. How can you ruin it? You need to use the Cresent wrench and the pliers at the same time........

rumrunn6

finally got back out on this bike. no more rubbing