Modernizing a Classic: 1984 Trek 760
07-16-20, 11:12 PM
#101
Batüwü Creakcreak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
I know I'm likely going to be told to leave it the hell alone but... I would love to fit 32s on this bike if possible. Right now it'll likely clear 28s but that's about it. I've read a few posts about dimpling the chain stays for some additional clearance. Is this even remotely advisable on a frame with Reynolds 531P? Should have just asked bilenky or had them do it...
08-08-20, 02:00 PM
#102
Batüwü Creakcreak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
Someone in the university cycling club is going to get me an old set of 30/32 tires and I'm going to test fit them F/R to see if it's even possible to fit them with dimpled stays.
One of the issues I have right now is with getting the wheel on and off where the tire hits the seatstay and it's a super tight fit before it goes all the way back in the dropouts. I might have to install/remove wheels with all the air out which is a pain but could be worth it!
One of the issues I have right now is with getting the wheel on and off where the tire hits the seatstay and it's a super tight fit before it goes all the way back in the dropouts. I might have to install/remove wheels with all the air out which is a pain but could be worth it!
08-08-20, 05:45 PM
#103
Senior Member
I'm gonna say no on the 32's, even with dimpling. You may be able to get them in if the tire is deflated and you dimpled the frame but why? And then it still probably won't clear the fork. Maybe different ones may fit different but I think you could get just as good a ride out of a good pair of 28c tires. Like say the RH Chinook Pass.
Here are some pictures on my 760 with my RibMO tires in 700x32.
rubbing
rubbing both tread and sidewall trying to get it in. Still doesn't allow the tire to be inserted.
This is where the axle is with the tire all the way forward.
Here are some pictures on my 760 with my RibMO tires in 700x32.
rubbing
rubbing both tread and sidewall trying to get it in. Still doesn't allow the tire to be inserted.
This is where the axle is with the tire all the way forward.
__________________
1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
Pics
1984 Cannondale ST
1985 Cannondale SR300
1980 Gary Littlejohn Cruiser
1984 Trek 760
1981 Trek 710
Pics
08-10-20, 05:24 PM
#104
Batüwü Creakcreak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
Ahhh thanks for this info, I guess I'll just limit myself to the 28s then.
Honestly, the ride with 25's is really good so the 28s will be pretty amazing. I'm running modern wheels so they're wider than say open pros or what have you.
Honestly, the ride with 25's is really good so the 28s will be pretty amazing. I'm running modern wheels so they're wider than say open pros or what have you.
08-18-20, 08:54 PM
#105
Batüwü Creakcreak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
On modern wider rims in actually fighting just to even get my 25s in and out in the rear. Kinda of unfortunate but I'm not really wanting for anything more on the road to be honest.
Wouldn't be an issue if it had vertical drops but it is what it is...
Wouldn't be an issue if it had vertical drops but it is what it is...
12-03-20, 11:15 AM
#106
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 16,869
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1854 Post(s)
Liked 661 Times
in
504 Posts
I have a 1984 Trek 610 (sport tour versus racing, which yours is) and it has a custom fork which has A LOT of rake. With your bike I would have left it as original except for bar/stem, saddle/seatpost, and wider tires. If you had your tubulars still I would have gone to a 25 mm or 27 mm tire like the Challenge Paris Roubaix. And then take it from there. I think the original component specs were very desirable.
12-03-20, 12:42 PM
#107
Batüwü Creakcreak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
Hi, I caught the beginning of the thread, but not the last two pages. What did you do with the fork?
I have a 1984 Trek 610 (sport tour versus racing, which yours is) and it has a custom fork which has A LOT of rake. With your bike I would have left it as original except for bar/stem, saddle/seatpost, and wider tires. If you had your tubulars still I would have gone to a 25 mm or 27 mm tire like the Challenge Paris Roubaix. And then take it from there. I think the original component specs were very desirable.
I have a 1984 Trek 610 (sport tour versus racing, which yours is) and it has a custom fork which has A LOT of rake. With your bike I would have left it as original except for bar/stem, saddle/seatpost, and wider tires. If you had your tubulars still I would have gone to a 25 mm or 27 mm tire like the Challenge Paris Roubaix. And then take it from there. I think the original component specs were very desirable.
I sold the bike over the summer so that's that with this chapter.
12-04-20, 07:48 AM
#109
Senior Member
Likes For Mogens:
12-04-20, 08:06 AM
#110
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: se MIch.
Posts: 2,300
Bikes: 1938 claud butler,1983 Basso,teledyne titan,teocali super,nrs,1993 stumpjumper fsr,Paramountain,Paramount Buell(sold),4 banger,Zaskar LE,Colnago Master Ibex MTB,1987ish,.etc....
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 800 Post(s)
Liked 2,962 Times
in
1,492 Posts
Stick with steel,
It's funny to be back here all these years later, but here goes.
I bought an 84 trek 760 used in 2007 or so when I was in college. I built that bike up and raced it for a short time, then built it up as a single speed to enjoy. Then I worked in boston for a few years and rode it around like that. Then I started medical school and it sat. And sat. And...
I just started residency. I finally decided to sell my old 'race' bike, a CAAD9 with DA7800 and neuvation wheels and got a pittance for the setup when I put it up. I really should have parted it out but so it goes... I'm still left with the trek that's still sitting in single speed trim. I'm in the market for a 'new to me' bike with a more endurance oriented geometry but I figure... why not try setting this up to be a fun longer distance bike?
So here I am again. I hope you'll humor me and answer a few questions.
1) If I were to put on a carbon fork, what should I be looking for? Any suggestions?
I've had back surgery in the past and I'm looking to smooth out the ride a bit. There's nothing wrong with the current fork per-se, but it may be nice to do this. I remember there used to be a few options.
2) Is there anything I need to know for compatibility other than the fact that the BB is a 68mm english thread? FD should be a 28.6mm clamp, correct?
Thanks for any help.... it's been a while. I think it would be really nice to build this back up just to enjoy it!
I bought an 84 trek 760 used in 2007 or so when I was in college. I built that bike up and raced it for a short time, then built it up as a single speed to enjoy. Then I worked in boston for a few years and rode it around like that. Then I started medical school and it sat. And sat. And...
I just started residency. I finally decided to sell my old 'race' bike, a CAAD9 with DA7800 and neuvation wheels and got a pittance for the setup when I put it up. I really should have parted it out but so it goes... I'm still left with the trek that's still sitting in single speed trim. I'm in the market for a 'new to me' bike with a more endurance oriented geometry but I figure... why not try setting this up to be a fun longer distance bike?
So here I am again. I hope you'll humor me and answer a few questions.
1) If I were to put on a carbon fork, what should I be looking for? Any suggestions?
I've had back surgery in the past and I'm looking to smooth out the ride a bit. There's nothing wrong with the current fork per-se, but it may be nice to do this. I remember there used to be a few options.
2) Is there anything I need to know for compatibility other than the fact that the BB is a 68mm english thread? FD should be a 28.6mm clamp, correct?
Thanks for any help.... it's been a while. I think it would be really nice to build this back up just to enjoy it!
12-04-20, 08:20 PM
#111
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,696
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1946 Post(s)
Liked 2,004 Times
in
1,105 Posts
'02 nrs Are you sure the cracks are structural? I was gifted one a while back that was too small for me. During a standard major overhaul, I noticed some hairline cracks but some research led me to believe that certain vintage aluminum treks had paint that cracked while the tube junctions were fine. Trek's painting process was changed but not the bonding process and it was all good. That Trek was a fast bike but too small and ...
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
12-07-20, 01:51 PM
#112
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: se MIch.
Posts: 2,300
Bikes: 1938 claud butler,1983 Basso,teledyne titan,teocali super,nrs,1993 stumpjumper fsr,Paramountain,Paramount Buell(sold),4 banger,Zaskar LE,Colnago Master Ibex MTB,1987ish,.etc....
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 800 Post(s)
Liked 2,962 Times
in
1,492 Posts
trek cracks?
'02 nrs Are you sure the cracks are structural? I was gifted one a while back that was too small for me. During a standard major overhaul, I noticed some hairline cracks but some research led me to believe that certain vintage aluminum treks had paint that cracked while the tube junctions were fine. Trek's painting process was changed but not the bonding process and it was all good. That Trek was a fast bike but too small and ...
12-07-20, 02:40 PM
#113
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,696
Bikes: 82 Medici, 2011 Richard Sachs, 2011 Milwaukee Road
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1946 Post(s)
Liked 2,004 Times
in
1,105 Posts
I only saw some at the head tube And I don't recall looking closely at the other joints. You need another opinion/further research for sure as those cracks seem to follow what I imagine is the joint. Thanks for the pictures.
__________________
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
Likes For Classtime:
12-07-20, 02:49 PM
#114
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Fredericksburg, Va
Posts: 9,579
Bikes: '65 Frejus TDF, '73 Bottecchia Giro d'Italia, '83 Colnago Superissimo, '84 Trek 610, '84 Trek 760, '88 Pinarello Veneto, '88 De Rosa Pro, '89 Pinarello Montello, '94 Burley Duet, 97 Specialized RockHopper, 2010 Langster, Tern Link D8
Mentioned: 73 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1607 Post(s)
Liked 2,214 Times
in
1,103 Posts
@'02 nrs - I suggest you start a new thread. Doubt many will come back since it was closed.
__________________
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Bikes don't stand alone. They are two tired.
Likes For SJX426:
12-07-20, 09:50 PM
#115
Batüwü Creakcreak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The illadelph
Posts: 20,784
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
160 Posts
The new owner is a friend of a teammate and it's his first real road bike. He was more than stoked to get it. I can't think of a better bike to shepherd someone into the addiction.
As for me, I've kept my other road bike and bough a cross/gravel bike to use for cross and winter road rides. And it's *gasp* carbon!
Likes For ridethecliche:
12-07-20, 10:22 PM
#116
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 1,092
Bikes: 1980's Spectrum 10 sp Campagnolo Centaur, 1990 Eddy Merckx 10 sp Campagnolo Centaur, Bushnell Tandem, Co-Motion Speedster Tandem
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 102 Times
in
65 Posts
these bikes were built using lugged aluminum joints and aluminum tubes these cracks are right where the lugs had a step up and the tubes slipped over the stepped down portion which was inside the lug. It was Treks answer to the welded Cannondales. There is a high probability that this is just cracks in the paint at the joining point of the lug and tube.
