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Cannondale Topstone

Old 03-26-19, 02:31 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by itskohler View Post
The MASON x HUNT 4 Season. I'm open to other cheap, but better-than-stock wheelsets though.
It's not clear from that link if the Mason X Hunt's are 700C or 650b (the Topstone comes with 650b, right? Though it supports both). Anyway, check out this thread from a month or so ago when I was looking for a 650b wheelset…
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html

I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
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Old 03-26-19, 02:40 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by JayNYC View Post
It's not clear from that link if the Mason X Hunt's are 700C or 650b (the Topstone comes with 650b, right? Though it supports both). Anyway, check out this thread from a month or so ago when I was looking for a 650b wheelset…
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html

I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
It comes with 700C wheels. I think the bottom bracket is a little low for Cannondale to officially recommend 650b, but have seen Topstones with them online, so it's probably doable.

I'm definitely going to check in with the Mill City wheel builder down the line. It's great that independent builders are trying to be competitive with the extremely inexpensive overseas operations, and stand behind the parts they use. I saw him post on RidingGravel, which is smart.
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Old 03-26-19, 02:42 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Just be aware of their weight limit. Lightweight, cheap wheels don't come without their compromises.
Oh shoot. I'll need to check in on that; just shy of 200lbs with gear.
Originally Posted by JayNYC View Post
It's not clear from that link if the Mason X Hunt's are 700C or 650b (the Topstone comes with 650b, right? Though it supports both). Anyway, check out this thread from a month or so ago when I was looking for a 650b wheelset…
https://www.bikeforums.net/cyclocros...-wheelset.html

I wound up going with Mill City Cycles for my wheelset based on a recommendation on that thread. I'd recommend at least talking with him about your needs. He can custom build something better for just slightly more than Mason X Hunt.
https://www.facebook.com/millcitycycle/
They're 700c rims, or at least that's what a review from another site says (so I'd be taking that with a grain of salt).

Thanks, I'll check him out!
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Old 03-26-19, 06:23 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
I will know the wheelset weight of the 105 build this weekend. I'll post that.
I'm quite interested in this as well.
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Old 03-28-19, 07:37 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by itskohler View Post
How heavy are the stock wheels? Are they worth replacing with some Hunt 4 Seasons?
Originally Posted by DanBell View Post
I'm quite interested in this as well.
Just as I suspected, the stock wheels are garbage. They weigh 2180g with nothing but tape on them. And my front hub bearings arrived already crunchy. This is criminal.
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Old 03-28-19, 07:58 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Just as I suspected, the stock wheels are garbage. They weigh 2180g with nothing but tape on them. And my front hub bearings arrived already crunchy. This is criminal.
I get the feeling they specced them more for durability rather than for lightness. WTB rims with Formula hubs isn't the worst combo in the world, right?

That is pretty heavy, though, and definitely makes me want to pursue an inexpensive set for road use, and keep the stock set for gravel and off-road entirely.
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Old 03-28-19, 08:33 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Just as I suspected, the stock wheels are garbage. They weigh 2180g with nothing but tape on them. And my front hub bearings arrived already crunchy. This is criminal.
Wow, that is heavy. I assume this includes the skewers/thru axles?

Good to know that I could drop an easy pound or two off this thing. The FSA crankset is also a beast. I haven’t seen confirmation that the frame can handle 50/34, but that’s what I would prefer for my riding (I live in miso flat Illinois after all).
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Old 03-28-19, 10:35 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Just as I suspected, the stock wheels are garbage. They weigh 2180g with nothing but tape on them. And my front hub bearings arrived already crunchy. This is criminal.
damn! that is criminal

Originally Posted by Lava View Post
It comes with 700C wheels. I think the bottom bracket is a little low for Cannondale to officially recommend 650b, but have seen Topstones with them online, so it's probably doable.
I've wondered because I've seen many Niner RLT AL & steel with 650s and those are also 75mm BB drops.

with that being said, my synapse was a 73mm BB drop and I was 700x25, so a 75mm bb drop on that 650 roadplus might not be too much of a stretch.
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Old 03-28-19, 11:04 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Just as I suspected, the stock wheels are garbage. They weigh 2180g with nothing but tape on them. And my front hub bearings arrived already crunchy. This is criminal.
damn! that is criminal

Originally Posted by Lava View Post
It comes with 700C wheels. I think the bottom bracket is a little low for Cannondale to officially recommend 650b, but have seen Topstones with them online, so it's probably doable.
I've wondered because I've seen many Niner RLT AL & steel with 650s and those are also 75mm BB drops.

with that being said, my synapse was a 73mm BB drop and I was 700x25, so a 75mm bb drop on that 650 roadplus might not be too much of a stretch.
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Old 03-29-19, 06:31 AM
  #110  
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So I'm converting my Sora level Topstone to 1x, but the bottom bracket standards are confusing to me, and I cant find any useful information anywhere on their site. What size BB do I need to order? I didn't know that BB standards were so...vast.
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Old 03-29-19, 06:59 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by itskohler View Post
So I'm converting my Sora level Topstone to 1x, but the bottom bracket standards are confusing to me, and I cant find any useful information anywhere on their site. What size BB do I need to order? I didn't know that BB standards were so...vast.
The Topstone uses a threaded bottom bracket. Its called an English threaded bottom bracket, BSA bottom bracket, or BSC bottom bracket. All mean the same thing- the bottom bracket cups thread into the frame. Its a really simple and effective way to attach a crank. So find the crank you want to use, then find the bottom bracket that matches it while being threaded and meant for a 68mm wide bottom bracket shell.

If the crank you want to use doesnt have a threaded option, there are most likely aftermarket workarounds by wheels manufacturing or praxis.

Last edited by mstateglfr; 03-29-19 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 03-29-19, 08:06 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Lava View Post
I get the feeling they specced them more for durability rather than for lightness. WTB rims with Formula hubs isn't the worst combo in the world, right?

That is pretty heavy, though, and definitely makes me want to pursue an inexpensive set for road use, and keep the stock set for gravel and off-road entirely.
Originally Posted by HarborBandS View Post


Wow, that is heavy. I assume this includes the skewers/thru axles?

Good to know that I could drop an easy pound or two off this thing. The FSA crankset is also a beast. I haven’t seen confirmation that the frame can handle 50/34, but that’s what I would prefer for my riding (I live in miso flat Illinois after all).
NO this doesn't include the TA skewers, only the rim tape and nothing else.

Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
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Old 03-29-19, 08:20 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
NO this doesn't include the TA skewers, only the rim tape and nothing else.

Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
No, I don’t own the bike. Only shopping.
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Old 03-29-19, 08:21 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by HarborBandS View Post


No, I don’t own the bike. Only shopping.
Ah ok. It'll be a fine bike once I get everything taken care of.
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Old 03-29-19, 08:38 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
The Topstone uses a threaded bottom bracket. Its called an English threaded bottom bracket, BSA bottom bracket, or BSC bottom bracket. All mean the same thing- the bottom bracket cups thread into the frame. Its a really simple and effective way to attach a crank. So find the crank you want to use, then find the bottom bracket that matches it while being threaded and meant for a 68mm wide bottom bracket shell.

If the crank you want to use doesnt have a threaded option, there are most likely aftermarket workarounds by wheels manufacturing or praxis.
Ah, the 68mm was the number I needed. Thanks for your help!
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Old 03-29-19, 10:03 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
NO this doesn't include the TA skewers, only the rim tape and nothing else.

Harbor - have you taken off the crank yet? If you haven't be careful. I completely destroyed mine trying to take it off last night. According to the shop it comes assembled from the factory so this is on Cannondale. Basically the NDS arm is so stuck to the spindle that the self-extracting bolt ripped the circular retainer right out of the crank arm. Now the bolt has nothing to push against to remove the arm. I'm about ready to take the sawzall to it because I can't think of any other way to get it off. I'm pretty peeved right now to say the least.
Good lord- you dont waste time! Just jump right in on the changes!
I imagine thats really frustrating- i dont have that exact experience, but totally get being annoyed at something that should be easy and is difficult due to how it was manufactured.

You could try riding it without the bolt- that has gotten some sq taper cranks off for me before when the threading was shot. One came off after a ride around the block. The other came off after multiple standing climbs up a short neighborhood hill(5% grade). It isnt fun the second it loosens because it gets sketchy quickly, but it worked!
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Old 03-29-19, 10:31 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Good lord- you dont waste time! Just jump right in on the changes!
I imagine thats really frustrating- i dont have that exact experience, but totally get being annoyed at something that should be easy and is difficult due to how it was manufactured.

You could try riding it without the bolt- that has gotten some sq taper cranks off for me before when the threading was shot. One came off after a ride around the block. The other came off after multiple standing climbs up a short neighborhood hill(5% grade). It isnt fun the second it loosens because it gets sketchy quickly, but it worked!
Hey that's a great idea, I'll give it a shot thanks.
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Old 03-29-19, 11:08 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Hey that's a great idea, I'll give it a shot thanks.
forgot to say- keep the bolts in, just loose. That'll help everything together and just wobbly once the crank loosens.
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Old 03-29-19, 11:25 AM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
forgot to say- keep the bolts in, just loose. That'll help everything together and just wobbly once the crank loosens.
Right, makes sense. I just tried to hammer a flat screwdriver in between the arm and the bearing as a sort of wedge and it didn't budge at all. I'm not too hopeful for anything other than sawzall at this point.
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Old 03-29-19, 02:44 PM
  #120  
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There are tapered chuck removal wedges that work for crank removal. Jacobs maybe?
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Old 03-29-19, 04:06 PM
  #121  
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FWIW i had an fsa gossamer crank bolt extractor fail so I'm not sure I'd totally blame cannondale. The shop has a tool similar to a square taper crank bolt extractor they were able to use to remove the crank arm
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Old 03-30-19, 08:04 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
FWIW i had an fsa gossamer crank bolt extractor fail so I'm not sure I'd totally blame cannondale. The shop has a tool similar to a square taper crank bolt extractor they were able to use to remove the crank arm
Fair enough. I probably should have taken it to a shop but, alas, I'm halfway through it with a sawzall.

Edit: I might be going to the auto shop to get a gear puller. The sawzall isn't making much progress through the steel spindle.
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Old 03-30-19, 10:19 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
Fair enough. I probably should have taken it to a shop but, alas, I'm halfway through it with a sawzall.

Edit: I might be going to the auto shop to get a gear puller. The sawzall isn't making much progress through the steel spindle.
We need pics!
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Old 03-30-19, 12:11 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by HarborBandS View Post


We need pics!
I've taken some. The tools that have paid the ultimate price are adding up...
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Old 03-30-19, 12:38 PM
  #125  
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Pretty safe to say the tiny alloy self-extracting bolt retainer never stood a chance. Still working on this...

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