New to cycling, what are must have gears accessories and tips?
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New to cycling, what are must have gears accessories and tips?
I live in NYC. I'm literally on the subway omw home from buying a used bike from some guy on CL. It definitely needs a little maintenance but I like it. I rode it very briefly and oh man - the freeing sensation was fantastic. I used to bike in bike medium distance ten years ago so I'm effectively brand new to it with some memories. Some observations I made during my brief ride:
1. Holy eff it's way more dangerous than I remember - I definitely need a helmet and lights.
2. I need riding shoes and pants. Never thought I'd say that - any recommendations?
So hey guys:
1. What safety gear do I need for riding in the city?
2. What other accessories and gear are must-have?
3. How do I lock a bike so no part of it is stolen? I'm not up on the most sophisticated ways to steal bikes.
4. What should I make sure I get checked out when my bike is tuned up.
THANK YOU!
1. Holy eff it's way more dangerous than I remember - I definitely need a helmet and lights.
2. I need riding shoes and pants. Never thought I'd say that - any recommendations?
So hey guys:
1. What safety gear do I need for riding in the city?
2. What other accessories and gear are must-have?
3. How do I lock a bike so no part of it is stolen? I'm not up on the most sophisticated ways to steal bikes.
4. What should I make sure I get checked out when my bike is tuned up.
THANK YOU!
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1. Gloves. You never know when you'll fall over. It's just part of riding. So, better to wear gloves than to pick pebbles out of your hand.
2. Probably a small container with a tire tool, spare tube, and some inflation device.
3. Don't know the best answer for that.
4. Gears work smooth, chain isn't worn, and bearings aren't shot. Basically, anything mechanical that would slow your down or cause gears to miss, especially uphill.
2. Probably a small container with a tire tool, spare tube, and some inflation device.
3. Don't know the best answer for that.
4. Gears work smooth, chain isn't worn, and bearings aren't shot. Basically, anything mechanical that would slow your down or cause gears to miss, especially uphill.
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As far as locking it depends on the bike. What parts can be removed without tools?
Where will you be locking the bike? Is it a secure monitored area?
Where will you be locking the bike? Is it a secure monitored area?
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3) Don't leave your bike unattended or sooner or later it will get stolen. It doesn't matter what kind of lock you use. I've had friends who have had their sportbikes (motorcycles) stolen by thieves who simply lifted them up and placed them in the beds of pickup trucks--happens all the time.
4) if you do take your bike to a shop make sure that they actually test their work by riding the bike. These guys always just work the gears, for example, on the stand and let that suffice. It doesn't. They need to ride the thing and torque the crank to make sure everything is working properly. Try to get recommendations for who does good work. Bike shop competency is spotty at best. Bike shops are famous for not tightening bolts down sufficiently or even the reverse--over torquing bolts, stems, etc. Just the way it is. Get some reference books so that, eventually, you can do some of this work yourself because if you want something done right . . . .
4) if you do take your bike to a shop make sure that they actually test their work by riding the bike. These guys always just work the gears, for example, on the stand and let that suffice. It doesn't. They need to ride the thing and torque the crank to make sure everything is working properly. Try to get recommendations for who does good work. Bike shop competency is spotty at best. Bike shops are famous for not tightening bolts down sufficiently or even the reverse--over torquing bolts, stems, etc. Just the way it is. Get some reference books so that, eventually, you can do some of this work yourself because if you want something done right . . . .
Last edited by Scarbo; 03-22-17 at 08:50 PM.
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A mirror is one of my must haves. Gloves are good too.
Get a repair kit together for flats. I also carry a few small tools for adjustments and "just in case". - Saddle bag will fit everything.
I don't leave my bike so I don't ever lock up my bike but if I did, at the minimum, I would lock both wheels onto the frame, and loop through the saddle rails too probably. Take off anything that doesn't need a tool and take those items with me (lights, etc).
Get a repair kit together for flats. I also carry a few small tools for adjustments and "just in case". - Saddle bag will fit everything.
I don't leave my bike so I don't ever lock up my bike but if I did, at the minimum, I would lock both wheels onto the frame, and loop through the saddle rails too probably. Take off anything that doesn't need a tool and take those items with me (lights, etc).
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Hello from NYC!
Beware of the cars' doors opening when riding in the non-dedicated (not painted green) bike lanes. Beware of turning cars when riding in any bike lane. Beware of pedestrians entering bike lanes without looking. Wear some bright reflective vest when riding in the evening.
As someone said, in NYC you need a 50$ bike and a 100$ lock. A motivated attacker can defeat any lock using a grinder. Cheaper locks can be simply cut with bolt cutters or twisted using some lever.
There are great trails in the area. One can take Metro North to Brewster and ride on a paved car-free path 50 miles back to Van Cortlandt park.
Enjoy riding!
Beware of the cars' doors opening when riding in the non-dedicated (not painted green) bike lanes. Beware of turning cars when riding in any bike lane. Beware of pedestrians entering bike lanes without looking. Wear some bright reflective vest when riding in the evening.
As someone said, in NYC you need a 50$ bike and a 100$ lock. A motivated attacker can defeat any lock using a grinder. Cheaper locks can be simply cut with bolt cutters or twisted using some lever.
There are great trails in the area. One can take Metro North to Brewster and ride on a paved car-free path 50 miles back to Van Cortlandt park.
Enjoy riding!
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How far will you be riding?
Do you intend to ride yourself sweaty?
Bicycling generally is a very tolerant activity, it can be done to your satisfaction in a wide number of ways.
Particularly if you're staying within city limits, trial-and-error can work with fairly little punishment.
Here are a few pointers on my approach:
- I never ride out of walking distance w/o a spare tube, tools to replace it, and a pump.
- I "never" ride w/o helmet. Not that a helmet might do that much good if actually run over. But it can certainly do you a lot of good during the far more common topple or wipeout. For what it cost in money and comfort to use one, it seems like a fair trade if all it'll ever do is to prevent an evening in the ER, a split eyebrow and some headache.
- any bike I leave unattended - no matter how well locked - in a public place, is one I can afford to lose, both financially and emotionally.
- I tend to use bicycle-specific pants/tights. Two reasons: my commute is long enough to merit it, and they're far more likely to hold up to the chafing against the saddle. Generic jackets, shirts, socks etc can work fine. But pants might wear out surprisingly fast if the fabric isn't picked with riding in mind. Similarly, bike-specific gloves can be worthwhile due to fingertip wear from shifting and braking.
- I really like my MTB-style clipless pedals and shoes. For urban riding, it's so easy to get going from an intersection by simply lifting a foot a little to bring a pedal into takeoff position.
- Lights and Hi-Viz vest. "Sorry, I didn't see you" shopuld not seem like a valid excuse if/when I'm hit by another road user.
Do you intend to ride yourself sweaty?
Bicycling generally is a very tolerant activity, it can be done to your satisfaction in a wide number of ways.
Particularly if you're staying within city limits, trial-and-error can work with fairly little punishment.
Here are a few pointers on my approach:
- I never ride out of walking distance w/o a spare tube, tools to replace it, and a pump.
- I "never" ride w/o helmet. Not that a helmet might do that much good if actually run over. But it can certainly do you a lot of good during the far more common topple or wipeout. For what it cost in money and comfort to use one, it seems like a fair trade if all it'll ever do is to prevent an evening in the ER, a split eyebrow and some headache.
- any bike I leave unattended - no matter how well locked - in a public place, is one I can afford to lose, both financially and emotionally.
- I tend to use bicycle-specific pants/tights. Two reasons: my commute is long enough to merit it, and they're far more likely to hold up to the chafing against the saddle. Generic jackets, shirts, socks etc can work fine. But pants might wear out surprisingly fast if the fabric isn't picked with riding in mind. Similarly, bike-specific gloves can be worthwhile due to fingertip wear from shifting and braking.
- I really like my MTB-style clipless pedals and shoes. For urban riding, it's so easy to get going from an intersection by simply lifting a foot a little to bring a pedal into takeoff position.
- Lights and Hi-Viz vest. "Sorry, I didn't see you" shopuld not seem like a valid excuse if/when I'm hit by another road user.
#8
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If you think you can keep a thief from stealing something they really want...think again..
#9
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Get the Park tool Blue Repair book even if you don't plan to do too much work. Know your bike.
Read all the Sheldon articles.
and you are already doing that, read this forum :-)
Read all the Sheldon articles.
and you are already doing that, read this forum :-)
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Lots of people ride happily in NYC --- you can join them.
Definitely lights. Bright lights. I recommend two flashing tail lights and a solid and flashing headlight from before dusk until after dawn in urban areas. You can get the watch-battery blinky lights for cheap. Do Not cheap out on your main lights---you want them just short of painfully bright for your visions and for visibility.
Definitely lights. Bright lights. I recommend two flashing tail lights and a solid and flashing headlight from before dusk until after dawn in urban areas. You can get the watch-battery blinky lights for cheap. Do Not cheap out on your main lights---you want them just short of painfully bright for your visions and for visibility.
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Google "Grant Peterson". Read some of his stuff. Then read some of the stuff from Grant Peterson haters.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
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The cheesiest lock that you can use to lock up your bike is still about 90% effective because it forces the thief to have some kind of tool with him. As you go from 90% to 99% effective, you engage in a progressively more high tech and progressively more expensive one-up-mans-ship battle with the thief which you will always eventually lose.
There is no 100% secure.
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My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
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You have a point but you can improve your odds big time.
The cheesiest lock that you can use to lock up your bike is still about 90% effective because it forces the thief to have some kind of tool with him. As you go from 90% to 99% effective, you engage in a progressively more high tech and progressively more expensive one-up-mans-ship battle with the thief which you will always eventually lose.
There is no 100% secure.
The cheesiest lock that you can use to lock up your bike is still about 90% effective because it forces the thief to have some kind of tool with him. As you go from 90% to 99% effective, you engage in a progressively more high tech and progressively more expensive one-up-mans-ship battle with the thief which you will always eventually lose.
There is no 100% secure.
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At a minimum, you should have a helmet, patch kit, spare tube, tire levers, and mini pump or CO2 canisters. And a floor pump for pumping your tires up before you leave the house.
If you plan to leave the bike anyplace for any length of time in NYC, you need a good lock. Something like a Kryptonite New York lock, or an Abus. I mostly ride in rural and suburban Wisconsin so I use a cheaper lock on most of my rides, but if I leave my bike in Milwaukee, I use a Kryptonite lock.
Then the rest is up to you. Shorts, tights, jersey, base layers, windproof or rain jacket, thermal jacket, gloves, clipless pedals and shoes? Some kind of eye protection? Sure. Lights for riding at night? fenders for riding in the rain? If recreational cycling becomes your thing, you will probably acquire all this stuff and more in time.
If you plan to leave the bike anyplace for any length of time in NYC, you need a good lock. Something like a Kryptonite New York lock, or an Abus. I mostly ride in rural and suburban Wisconsin so I use a cheaper lock on most of my rides, but if I leave my bike in Milwaukee, I use a Kryptonite lock.
Then the rest is up to you. Shorts, tights, jersey, base layers, windproof or rain jacket, thermal jacket, gloves, clipless pedals and shoes? Some kind of eye protection? Sure. Lights for riding at night? fenders for riding in the rain? If recreational cycling becomes your thing, you will probably acquire all this stuff and more in time.
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You have a point but you can improve your odds big time.
The cheesiest lock that you can use to lock up your bike is still about 90% effective because it forces the thief to have some kind of tool with him. As you go from 90% to 99% effective, you engage in a progressively more high tech and progressively more expensive one-up-mans-ship battle with the thief which you will always eventually lose.
There is no 100% secure.
The cheesiest lock that you can use to lock up your bike is still about 90% effective because it forces the thief to have some kind of tool with him. As you go from 90% to 99% effective, you engage in a progressively more high tech and progressively more expensive one-up-mans-ship battle with the thief which you will always eventually lose.
There is no 100% secure.
When I was a kid, I was fortunate that I never had a bike stolen, despite riding my bike just about everywhere. I used one of those chains with a combination lock, so not much of a deterrent. Almost everyone I know whose bike was stolen (and I knew quite a few kids whose bikes got stolen) left their bikes unlocked.
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Every time you lock your bike and walk away you are gambling. You can tilt the odds a little in your favor, but locking a bike in NYC is like playing in a casino you Know is crooked.
If you need to run into a convenience store for five minutes, use a big lock and thick chain. Anything more than that, ride a crappy bike.
If I were just riding in an urban area (which I did for about 15 years) I would ride whatever I wanted and carry a solid lock and chain---better still, two U-locks.
If I were running errands in an urban area, I would ride a bike that people would not want to steal. If the bike next to it is worth a little more and has the same lock, your bike is a little safer.
Having had a few bikes stolen, I'd say it is the emotional impact which hurts worst. I get attached to Any bike I ride more than a couple times. But if i know it was a $50 Craigslist beater and I have three more in my garage, at least I know I won't be walking the next day.
#18
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Whatever you wear, have it highly reflective. When you drive a car at night or even during sunny days, pay attention how late or barely you see pedestrians and bicyclists. Don't assume every car driver pays attention, or has good vision. A car driver has to pay attention to oncoming, crossing, behind traffic, pedestrains, cyclists, cellphone text messages, eating, drinking, radio, children in the car.... trust me, you want to be as visible as possible to not be overseen.
I have am OSHA rated high-visibility vest I put over my T-shirt. I also have a construction site rated hi-vis wind breaker. Any backpack should be visible too. I even thought of getting some shoes or covers that are reflective because the pedal motion may be more visible. don't get something just yellow, get something that is rated safety gear for construction sites.
Have good lights (and batteries charged). I put mine on my helmet so I don't leave them un-secured and also take them inside to charge batteries.
I drive my car every day, often in the dark and I can't see myself ever wearing a black jacket or similar at night and expect not being run over. Even on dedicated bike paths you have to cross driveways, streets etc.
I have am OSHA rated high-visibility vest I put over my T-shirt. I also have a construction site rated hi-vis wind breaker. Any backpack should be visible too. I even thought of getting some shoes or covers that are reflective because the pedal motion may be more visible. don't get something just yellow, get something that is rated safety gear for construction sites.
Have good lights (and batteries charged). I put mine on my helmet so I don't leave them un-secured and also take them inside to charge batteries.
I drive my car every day, often in the dark and I can't see myself ever wearing a black jacket or similar at night and expect not being run over. Even on dedicated bike paths you have to cross driveways, streets etc.
#19
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If a thief wants your bike, there's no way to stop him. In fact, since you bought your bike off from CL there's a good chance that your bike has been stolen before. I probably assign a higher likelihood of that than someone legitimately selling their old workhorse; but there's no denying that it happens...
#20
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In addition to the aforementioned spare tube and pump and levers, have the know-how to use them. Practice taking a tire and tube off at home, so when you have to do it it isn't a learning experience. I was about ready to help some folks on an organized ride last fall, until SAG showed up, who had everything they needed but no clue how to use it. If they'd have been on their own, it would have done them exactly no good.
Past that? MY must haves are gloves and a basic wired cyclocomputer. YMMV, though, but those are the two things I always have. Helmet also strongly recommended, as I've learned everytime I've crashed without one, the only thoughts going through your head at that moment are "HEY IDIOT, DON'T HIT YOUR HEAD!"
Past that? MY must haves are gloves and a basic wired cyclocomputer. YMMV, though, but those are the two things I always have. Helmet also strongly recommended, as I've learned everytime I've crashed without one, the only thoughts going through your head at that moment are "HEY IDIOT, DON'T HIT YOUR HEAD!"
#21
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Well, if you hit your head hard enough, you forget, so ... no helmet needed.
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Lots of Grant threads on BF, many pages in fact. Most either love him or hate him.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ersen-npr.html
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I am looking to get a new helmet for the season, and have narrowed it down to two; the Giro Chronicle and the Kali Maya. Does anyone have a recommendation or preference?
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They both look like decent trail helmets. Agree with 10 wheels. Buy what fits best. If they both feel the same, buy the helmet that looks best, or is the cheapest.