Metallifan33

Hey All,
I decided to wash and lube the bike/chain today and when I went to put the rear wheel back on, I noticed that the indexing was way off (e.g., I put it in the smallest cog before removing the wheel, and when I put the wheel back on, I couldn't shift to within 3 gears of the smallest cog).
So I checked the indexing and sure enough, it had gotten way off track (it was indexed prior to me removing the wheel)... I've also noticed this happened last time I removed the wheel.
So I took a closer look at the cabling and noticed this:





The cable had been pulled back and there was a gap between the cable housing and the housing that sits just on top of the barrel adjuster screw.
Basically it looks like the curve of the cable (from when it exits the frame and enters the RD) is too severe.
I gently pulled on the cable housing and re-inserted it into the housing that sits just on top of the barrel adjuster screw.
I then proceeded to index the gears (and it took an uncomfortable number of turns until I could even get all the gears to engage).
The cable now looks like this with the housing slightly split and frayed.

In addition, there is an additional piece of plastic housing where the cable enters the frame and it is split:




Basically what I think I did was pull too hard on the RD spring when I took the wheel off and it probably compressed/bent the cable housing enough to tear the additional housing around the BA and the one by the frame. (I don't know if this a common thing with guys who don't know what they're doing)
Have I screwed things up? Do I need to take it in to the LBS and have them work on/replace the cables?
From watching YouTube videos, I understand that cables can stretch over time, but how often do they need to be replaced?
Do I need to unscrew the cable completely from the RD and reset it somehow?
The limit screws seem fine (I didn't touch them). Anyway, any advice is appreciated; I'd like to avoid being stranded somewhere due to a broken/snapped shifter cable.
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks in advance!

datlas 

I believe you split/broke the ferrule cap. This can likely be replaced with keeping the cable and cable housing. Tough to say for sure but that’s what it looks like to me. So put RD in smallest cog, loosen cable at RD, slide off old ferrule cap, put new one on, verify housing end is smooth (or sand it smooth), replace cable in RD.

ls01

At worst its probably just a cable replacement. Unless you did something you don't realize. If you don't have the mechanical knowledge to fix it yourself take it to a shop and let them look at it. It might be ok as is or it may need a new cable. Hard to tell from pictures.

cxwrench

You've done an absolutely stellar job cleaning your bike. Hard to imagine you could get it that clean and not notice that housing, but hey...it happens. You might be able to pull the cable back some and trim the end of the housing and then put on a new ferrule.
ETA: Pretty much positive that grommet where the housing goes into the frame is supposed to be split.

jadocs

Not sure how indexing got messed up just by taking the wheel off and putting it on. Everything is installed back correctly I assume?

topflightpro

Replace the housing.

IME, when housing starts to look frayed like that at the ends, it's time to replace it.

msu2001la

Wow that is a clean cassette. Nice job.

Have you tried just shoving the housing back into the ferrule to see if it works? Don't get me wrong... it looks like the ferrule and housing should be replaced, but my guess is that it probably shifts fine if you stick it back in.

Metallifan33

Yeah... The last two times, I had to reindex after replacing the wheel. Haven't touched the limit screws, but it's pretty clear the indexing gets messed up as I can't even access all the gears when I first put the wheel on. It seems like the cable gets stretched/compressed when I remove/replace the wheel. I think I'm stretching the RD too much when I'm pulling the wheel off.

Metallifan33

Thanks. I've been under the whether this week and I've realized cleaning the bike is a therapeutic thing for me
I'll look up ferrule caps and pick one up.

**Edit** Do these things wear out often? Amazon seems to sell them in packs of 100

msu2001la

If you go through 100 ferrule caps during your remaining lifetime I'd be seriously impressed.

Kimmo

There's an ally ferrule that Shimano does, or did, that's for that position in the barrel adjuster, since the plastic ones are prone to kinking. Works a lot better.

Metallifan33

Huh. I didn't realize this. I remove the rear wheel often as I have an indoor trainer and only one bike. It's easier to clean the cassette and wheel with the wheel removed.

znomit

See the trouble being underbiked can cause?

MoAlpha

Neither did anyone else. Take the wheel off whenever and as often as you want.

WhyFi

You come up with weird stuff. Removing a wheel is not a destructive act and removing wheels for washing is quite common (to reach in to the tight spaces), even more so with disc bikes (so that calipers can be covered to avoid pad contamination).

Iride01 

You mention that several times you removed the wheel and had to re-index it after replacing. If everything is correct on your bike, removing and re-installing the wheel will never result in the need to re-index.

This probably should have been an indicator that something was going amok. I'd suggest your cable housing end never was completely in the end cap. Maybe the end cap wasn't even the right size for that cable.

For what ever reason it happened, you just need to replace the end cap from what I'm seeing in the picture. If the exposed cable ends are bent or loose, then trim a millimeter or two back on the housing.

Whether you do that or get new stuff, before you secure the cable in the holdfast of the DR, make certain every end of the cable housing is securely in their end cap if they use one and also securely in the cable stops where ever that cable is held to the frame.

Cable housing not being properly in their end caps and/or cable stops will give you unreliable shifts.

Atlas Shrugged

First of all amazing job cleaning your drivetrain. I would pay someone to get mine that clean!

Removing your wheel is not a destructive act and you could do it daily for a lifetime and not affect the bicycle, Riding a bike is more destructive than removing the wheel so not sure where this is coming from.

Looks like you are missing an alloy ferrule which usually terminates at the end of the cable housing. If the cable is a bit short that doesn't help either. Lastly, the rubber grommet is usually split to allow removal without having to thread the cable through.

Kimmo

If you want to clean something properly, you take it at least somewhat apart.

I'd be far more concerned about water ingress through the poxy seals in the junky cartridge bearings everyone but Shimano and Campy insists on using in even their flashest wheels, rather than any slightly higher possibility of damage from removing the wheels.

Kimmo

Yep, a good trick is to clamp the cable (not so tight it gets crushed, but tight enough not to slip), and shift the lever without pedalling to load up the cable and seat the housing in all the ferrules properly. Turn the cranks to release the tension without causing damage (releasing the tension via the shifter is a bad idea with escapement mechanisms). Then reclamp the cable, and adjust.

This pretty much eliminates "cable stretch" which isn't actually a thing.

msu2001la

I take my wheels off every time I clean my bike. I also frequently swap between multiple wheelsets. I've never had to adjust the derailleur after doing this.

Bigbus

Not sure "impressed" is the word I would use...

cxwrench

Please...stop making it sound like taking a wheel off is dangerous. YOU are the one that needs training/practice if you can't do it properly. Don't tell others they shouldn't do it.