billm67

One other thing that might help...Surly Truckstop Bars. This will raise the bars up a bit. Try a 30 degree stem with the truckstop bars and it might get you the fit you need.

shelbyfv

Good plan. How is it working out?

dave73

It's been working out great, better than I thought. Since I am on pavement most of the time, all I had to do was buy some 27.5+ tires that rolled a bit better on concrete. I did also have to buy a more comfortable seat, the WTB Comfort model did the trick. Other than that the TimberJack has been holding up like a champ and really suiting my needs, didn't even have to upgrade the wheels that are on there. I have lost a total of 37 pounds since May 4th and going strong!!! Hope to get myself on a road bike one day and do some some distance riding.

shelbyfv

Good to hear There seems to have been a bunch of "super clydes" recently asking what bike will support them. Maybe you could start a new thread about the Salsa since the drop bar in the title of this thread might keep them from seeing it.

dave73

will do!!!

davei1980

Hey - I am late to this party but just want to give you props, all bodies are cycling bodies and it's great to get out, no matter what your measurements. I am not a huge Surly fan but their combination of wide tire clearance, and thick, heavy frames should suit you well for a very long time. Also, consider some tandem wheels to hold you up. Give careful consideration to the saddle too because I have heard of rails bending. Perhaps a suspension post (Cane Creek) could help? I don't know.

I ride a Jones bike which would be AWESOME for someone of your proportions but they're not really road bikes so I am not sure if that's what you're into. If you are curious, I am happy to share more.

I am happy for you and hope you reach your goals, no matter what those are.

starkmojo

Go try out some bikes. I prefer a more aggressive road/CX bike stance to the more relaxed touring/comfort (there is more to the bike then the bars.) REI has an ADV 1.1 that comes in a XXL if you want to try a touring bike, and they can order 61cm Cannondales like the CAADX or topstone.

One think I have found at my weight is to avoid smaller tires. I use 32's and change tubes about once a month due to flats. I can use 28s if I am willing to deal with a flat a week... anything smaller just seems like cashing out rims (I am 330lbs) so keep that in mind.

You will be over the weight limit for pretty much every road bike I have found. You can still ride them but be aware that voids the warranty. I like CX bikes as "fat man road bikes" because while their wait ratings are higher, I am also not using them for CX but on the road- but check weight limits and assess your personal risks comfort accordingly.

I have looked at the Zinn 747 and would love to try one if it was in my price range. Sadly its not. If you check one out I would love a ride report.

WonderMonkey

You can certainly get a drop bar bike built, but it will be heavy-duty. There is a HIGH chance you will BUY ANOTHER BIKE as you keep losing, etc. It's a choice now. Buy a bike now then buy ANOTHER expensive bike OR get a nice hybrid now and THEN buy a nice bike that will be with you for a long time.

Milton Keynes

Sad truth, but true nonetheless. I just bought my first drop bar road bike in about 30 years, and getting used to the hunched over position. I don't have a huge gut, but I did notice that I can feel it when I'm in the drops. It's just a tad uncomfortable, and I'm at 255. I think a more upright position is likely needed for a 380 lb. rider.

jfoobar

Another issues is that larger men, especially those who have not spent a lot of time on bikes in the past, quite often have pelvic flexibility issues which causes them to roll onto their perineum when trying to get into the riding position on a normal road bike, even a bike that otherwise "fits" them. This obviously leads to substantial discomfort, an endless cycle of trying new saddles to no avail, and possibly someone giving up on cycling altogether or limited themselves to shorter rides. There are also obvious wrist and elbow problems that can result from putting too much weight on the arms on longer rides as well. Back pain and the previously mentioned breathing issues can come into play also.

To address all of these issues on an otherwise dropbar platform, a touring bike is an excellent place to start.

zjrog

@dave73, I was 378 at my heaviest (recorded weight, perhaps was heavier than that at some point) I am 6'1", I used to be a bit closer to 6'3", but age and a back injury, well...

I received as a gift from a good friend, his used 29er MTB, set up with cross style drop bars. And on 28 spoke wheels. I couldn't/didn't ride hard in the dirt, but it has held up quite well as I've lost 140ish pounds and spend more time on my road bikes. It proved to be a lot faster on paved surfaces than I expected, and I now have a second set of wheels with narrower gravel tires.



I had a stem riser on the bike for a little while, trying to sort out a sciatica/sacroiliac joint issue... That riser is no longer needed.

I see you chose a 27.5 bike, and I hope it gets you all you want and need... Good luck!!!

tpadul 

Can you show me some photos of how you raised up your handlebars? You had commented on my new 1984 Sekai 5000 racing bike I just picked up I think and I'm struggling with the drop handlebars, I really don't like them and will be switching them out on my other bikes I have but now that I found this vintage 1984 Sekai racing bike I do want to keep the drops on the bike but until I fully lose at least 100 pounds I want to do something to make riding this racing bike more comfortable for me, I saw some photos on this site somewhere where someone had some kind of handlebar extensions placed of the top of the drop bars but I don't know what they are called. The Sekai came with Aerobars clipped on but those don't help as you are really bending down with the Aero bars and I want to find something that I can temporarily put onto the top of the drop bars that will allow me to sit in a more upright position until I am at a much more healthy weight. Any suggestions with photos would be most appreciative. I don't know what the extensions are called that I saw in some photo but they were clipped/bolted onto the top of the drop handlebar. Do you know what these are? I just wish the quill stems were longer so I could raise that up a bit higher, and I have seem quill stem extenders for mountain bikes but I don't know if that would even work on the Cinelli quill stem that is on my Sekai.

samkl 

Also check out Rivendell. Nice sturdy bikes that put you in an upright position - way nicer than a Surly too.

Russ Roth

I think the Somafab cross frameset is really good for this, since it will let you build to budget and modify to fit your needs. Once thing over looked with the gut issue is the effect of crank length, a shorter crank means your knee doesn't come up as high on the upstroke. Plenty of tests show there isn't any appreciable loss of power for quite a range of sizes but putting a 170 instead of 172.5 or ever 175 does mean the knee stays a touch lower. Can use a shorter reach bar so less stretch while keeping a good stem length. Steerer tube on a frameset isn't usually cut so keep it where you need it for now. And money on the initial build goes to wheels you need. Velocity Dyad with 36 spokes and an xt mtb hub will be plenty sturdy, not too heavy and long lasting. Can also build using a sun Rhino Lite in 36h, I built that combo for a friend easily 5 years ago and its never needed truing and a lot of his riding is unpaved rail trail so not the smoothest, in the 5 years he's had it it's yet to need a real true.

dave73

Thanks Russ, a lot of good info here!!!

vjbknife

I am 275lbs and have been riding Lynskey bikes for almost 10 years now with zero issues. They make a touring bike called the backroad thet I just got which they say has 'no weight limit'. I have had one for about a month as well as two other models that they make. I have not used their wheelsets becuase I think they are too lightweight. I build my own wheelsets. I have been riding the Sportive model the longest with 36 spoke 3 cross wheels and have had no problems. They are at the top of your budget but I don't think you will be disappointed. Most manufacturers have weight ratings for their frames so check them prior to buying one. I think Surly would also be a decent choice but check their weight ratings.

cyccommute 

I’d say almost strong enough out of the box. The weak link is going to be wheels. The OEM wheels will be relative strong. But they can be made much better. The straight gauge spokes should be replaced with triple butted spokes which will increase the strength and durability significantly. Perhaps even consider 40 spoke wheels with triple butted spokes.

RadDog

I know this is a bike related thread, but I am a strength and conditioning coach and I have had extraordinary success with intermittent fasting. However, IF must be custom designed to the individual. I have a 350 pounder I have been working with currently and she has lost 20 lbs in less than a month using IF and 3 workouts a week.

I went from 20% fat to 4% using IF (and contest prep/1.2 hours of cardio per day). I eat pretty much what I want and stay 9% using IF in the off season.

I weight train 1.5 hours one day, and ride for 1 hour the next day. I eat pizza, ice cream (in moderation) and simply adjust the number of hours I fast. I eat on a 12 by 12 schedule (eat 12 hours, fast 12 hours). Some people extend the fast to as much as 16 and 8. A 16 and 8 will take weight off in a hurry, but a 12 by 12 is something you can do for life, its easy.

StanSeven

Let’s cut out the arguing and insults. RadDog, you are adding nothing positive to this thread. Leave the thread now.