Abu Mahendra

Got my ticket. Three weeks to tour Korea. I know about the Four Rivers oath system, and hope to jump on it. But I also want to strike out away from it. Any tips or insights?

Oh yeah, CC-touring. Will not be carrying camp kit at all.

hhk25

I toured Seoul to Busan last June with my daughter. A few observations:

- Very few people outside of Seoul speak English

- Hotels can be a bit sketchy outside of the big cities. You get quite a few "love motels". For that reason, I wish we brought camping gear. There are a lot of beautiful and free campsites along the bike trails.

- Wayfinding on the trails is not the best. Bring a phone, buy a SIM card at the airport and use Naver maps (Google maps does not work in Korea). Getting lost though, is half the fun.

- Bike trails through the cities can be busy. Lots of kids and grandmas out for a stroll. Pedestrians have the right of way at all times.

- The trails around Seoul are absolutely first rate. They actually blasted bike tunnels through mountains. Fantastic experience.

- There are convenience stores everywhere so getting snacks and water will be no problem. They also sell beer which goes down great after a day in the saddle. Korean beers tend to be weak and watery.

- Try to take in a baseball game while you're there. So much fun.

- Pick up some good dust masks in case you get a yellow dust storm. It can get pretty bad in the spring.

Any other questions, just ask. Overall, it really was a fantastic experience. We loved the 4 Rivers Trail, the food, the people.

Abu Mahendra

wow, thanks...i was hoping to CC-tour, and dispense with the camp kit. are decent hotels really thin on the ground in the countryside along or near the trails?

hhk25

Depends on what you call decent. Think 1 star motel beside a truck stop and that's what you get in most small towns.

There are some resort and spa towns with decent hotels but even they are not up to Western standards.

I can sleep anywhere but I had my 20 year old daughter with me and I was a little more choosy.

We managed just fine. She never complained but I just kept looking at the campsites and wishing we had brought our gear. Most of them had raised wooden platforms to get you off the ground. Some had roofs and even AC power to charge your phone. And most were in primo, riverside locations. In May, they will be empty.

Abu Mahendra

Thanks. Helpful. I'll plan to carry a tent, matt and sleeping bag, then...

hhk25

I think you'll appreciate having the option. Nice thing is, you won't need to cook. There will be plenty of opportunities to eat and or stock up on snacks. The food is great. Every restaurant had their speciality so try learn how to ask about it in Korean.

Abu Mahendra

what about a hammock (with integrated bug netting overhead)? is that a viable alternative to a tent?

hhk25

That's not a bad idea. There are two types of campsites along the trail.

1) The official ones which are groups of wooden platforms or prepared, leveled sites. Most of these don't have trees around for a hammock.

2) Unofficial ones which are supposed to be rest stops. They are platforms with a roof. You could easily attach a hammock to those. I don't think they are designed for camping but don't let that stop you. No one will kick you out, especially if you're a foreigner.

Here's a good webpage that will tell you what it's like to camp along the trail: Four Rivers Ride - Worldbiking.info

One thing I will say is that the people who wrote that blog page seem to be way over-packed. You just don't need much stuff to cycle Korea. There is always a small town or rest stop for supplies. You never need to cook because food is cheap and delicious. If you forgot to bring a jacket or need a new shirt, you can buy one along the way. Korea has a serious camping and hiking culture so outdoor clothing is cheap and good quality.



The best thing about camping in Korea is that it is completely safe. No one will bother you. I'm sure you could just leave everything at your site and go into town for dinner and nothing would be molested.

From the same site as above, a photo of one of the bikes-only LED lit tunnels.



Let me know what route you're taking and I'll try to get you more info. Or just wing it. I would do that next time. Just set out from Seoul and see where the road leads me.

BTW, if you're dead set on credit card touring, by all means, leave the camping stuff at home. The motels are not dirty. They are just kind of tired and sometimes dark. Oh, and I use the term "credit card" touring liberally. Korea is an all-cash society. A credit card can only really be used in the big cities.

Abu Mahendra

My flight puts me in Incheon at around 08.00. Do I find a room near/in Incheon, and start the tour from there? Or head to Seoul right away and start from there?

hhk25

Almost everyone who cycles Korea will suggest that you not start from the Incheon airport. The roads are scary and there is really nothing to see from Incheon to Seoul. It's better to get to Seoul and start from there. The only problem is, I'm not sure about the bike policy on the train.

If you have Facebook, join this group and ask your specific questions there: https://www.facebook.com/groups/5431...?ref=bookmarks

If you're landing at 08:00, you have time to get to Seoul, hit the 4 Rivers Trail and ride well out of Seoul to find a reasonably quiet campsite.

Abu Mahendra

I am not suggesting to bike out of the airport. As I understand it, one of the four rivers trails starts/ends at Incheon. Btw, i am bringing a folding bike in a bag... Sure, i can think of getting to Seoul that morning...

Any bike friendly hotels in Seoul?
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hhk25

Yes, the trail starts in Incheon at the Ara Hangang Sea Lock. The train from Incheon Int'l Airport stops at Cheongna International City Station which is very close to the start of the path. In Seoul, I had no problem storing a bike at my hotel. Most modern hotels will accommodate. If it's a folding bike, I don't think you're going to have any problem. I would stay close to the bike path so you don't have to navigate through Seoul on a bike.

Keep in mind that Google Maps does not work in Korea. I think Kakao map app has an English interface.

That Facebook group is gold for detailed info. I've only done the tour once. Most of the people in the group live in Korea.

Abu Mahendra

Unlocked GSM SIM phone useless, or i can buy a 4G SIM card there?

hhk25

We never used a phone other than for GPS and WiFi. There is widespread free WiFi so you can get away with it. SIM cards for non-residents were hard to find which is why we didn't buy one. I believe they can be purchased at the airport.

Oldsport

You'll find everything that you need here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/543187712445164/
Biking in Korea is fantastic. DM if you need any help.

Abu Mahendra

The biking is very good. Hotels at the end of the day? Cost of food? So far, I think Taiwan has the edge on those two things.

Abu Mahendra

My Tour-o-log is on the Folding Bicycles channel here.

Abu Mahendra

Having toured in South Korea and Taiwan within the last few months, I am in a good position to provide a comparison of the two places as CC-touring destinations.

Getting There
Coming from the Americas, Europe or Ocenia, both South Korea and Taiwan are going to be long, not inexpensive hauls. From Southeast Asia, Taiwan is closer, and flights are less expensive than to Korea.

Folding Bikes in Public Transport
In Taiwan, I only put the bike on trains, once on a local train where one can simply roll the bike aboard, and another time on an express train where the bike had to be folded and in a bag. In Korea, I took the bike folded and in a bag in the express train from Incheon airport, on the bullet train from Busan to Taipei, and on the shuttle bus from downtown Seoul to the airport. No problems.

Costs
Hotel prices are comparable in Taiwan and Korea. In both places one will pay more in Taipei and in Seoul. Korea has Love Motels everywhere which can be quite plush, and a great value in travelling as a couple. I never paid more than $55/nite outside of Seoul. Taiwan hotel prices are similar, but it has the advantage that it is well served by Agoda so searching hotels is easier. Hotels in Taiwan will provide breakfast, while most hotels where I stayed in Korea did not. For this reason, hotels in Taiwan are marginally less expensive
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Food costs is where the two countries differ. Food in Korea is more expensive than in Taiwan. In the former, you will be hard pressed to get a bowl of noodles or rice, both in and out of Seoul, for less than $5-7. Meat is particularly expensive in Korea. Another striking difference is the prevalence and quality of 7/11 convenience stores. In Taiwan they are everywhere, they are well-stocked with food, and have nice tables to sit at. By comparison, Korean convenience stores lag.

Public Security and Safety
Both Taiwan and South Korea are very safe. At no time did I feel even remotely unsafe or vulnerable. Public criminality is generally very low. When on roads, there are either shoulders or dedicated bike lanes in both countries, and vehicular traffic is quite respectful of cyclists. People leave you alone, and there are no hassles or hustles of any kind in both places. Leaving bikes unattended outside is generally safe, and bikes are often just locked so the wheel cannot turn, rather than affixed to a stationary object. No tips or gratuities of any kind are requested or expected anywhere. People are generally friendly, though reserved, and helpul in both places.

Riding and Roads
I came away very impressed with the amount and quality of public infrastructure in both places. It is obvious that Taiwan and Korea have invested significantly in transportation, rail and roads. In the case of Korea, the investment in water-works is evident everywhere. Taiwan has some impressive long-span bridges and elevated roadways. Korea blasted through mountains to provide tunnels for its bike paths, and Taiwan has built pedestrian and bike only bridges. Road surfaces in both places is good.

In Korea the bike trails are brilliant. Imagine, you can cross the entire country, essentially on one continuous bike path. Trails around Seoul and Taipei are quite substantial. Once out of the capital cities, the bike paths in Korea don't have a lot of climbs, but the one that there are tend to be 10-13% gradient. Short and steep. Climbs in Taiwan are more gradual and a lot longer and more prevalent. In Taiwan you'll do more total elevation while in Korea you'll do more total distance.

One interesting aspect of the Korean bike path is that once you get down to Busan, you can hop on a ferry to Japan, and continue there. A Tokyo-Seoul tour would be killer.
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In summary, both places are well set up, and rewarding for CC-touring. Taiwan and Korea have long, fascinating histories, culture and cuisine too. Highly recommended.