hubcyclist

As the title says, just looking to validate what I'm about to do. Recently got this bike from a coworker, and I'm generally very happy with it (for $100, you'd be too!). The only thing that I think I need to improve is the position of the hoods, which I feel are a touch too low for me. I've noticed that the drops are parallel to the ground, but apparently the newer common wisdom is to have a 5-10 degree angle. I'm thinking this little adjustment can make a good difference.Just seeing if others see it the same way. Attached the best pic I have for example of how it looks currently (except for the saddle, its much higher for me now).

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5549/...f7d1f0_b_d.jpg

chaadster

Yes, you can rotate the bars backward and bring the hoods up, and it's probably a good idea. The setup now is pretty old school, in the sense that the sloping ramps that lead to the low lever positioning is a bar design from before the era (which we're in right now, and your levers are, too) when using the lever hoods was a primary grip. The bar may even be a track bar, where no levers are used at all and the primary handhold is the drops.

So yeah, you can rotate the bars back, but be mindful that using the drops will limit how far you can go because if they're too angled, and there is no bar under your hand, keeping your hands on the bar will be harder and the risk of a bump knocking your hands right off will be higher.

The other thing to consider is a bar shape better suited to your needs. Looking at your stem, it looks like an old 25.4 clamp diameter, which limits things a bit, but check out Soma Fab, for example, who offer a great selection, including the compact shape HWY1, in that diameter.

hubcyclist

Yeah, that is definitely something I've been considering, along with changing out the quill stem with a threadless adapter and such. But will definitely check out your recommendation, if it turns out my adjustment doesn't effectively solve my little issue.

awfulwaffle 

I just went through this myself. Bought my first vintage bike, and realized how different the bars were from my modern road bike. Angling them up certainly helped, but also made the brake lever angle feel awkward and made my hands feel as though I could slip off the drops if I was holding onto the ends. Luckily the bars were also too narrow for me, so I ended up ordering a set of Nitto Rando bars. They are much flatter on top in the spots leading up to the brake hoods, and the drops are spread out a bit which I like as well. Best part is they are 25.4 so I can avoid having to buy a threadless adapter.

hubcyclist

What's the best way to figure out the clamp diameter size (I don't have calipers or anything)? This is 1995 model, so curious to know how I can distinguish between 25.4 and 26

Carbonfiberboy 

Yes, agree new bars. Then ignore the angle of the drops. Adjust the angle of the tops leading to where the hoods will be by getting into your low hoods position, forearms as nearly level as is comfortable for you. Your tops should be set so that your wrists rest comfortably on them, i.e. at about parallel with your forearms. Then position your hoods so that the back of the hood forms a continuous straight line with the bar top. When you're low and holding the hoods, almost all the pressure is then on your wrists, not your hands. You want the transition from top to bend to be abrupt, like in these bars:

rather than using the traditional round bend, like these bars:

Carbonfiberboy 

Caliper. So go to your LBS.

hubcyclist

Well I just remembered my HS geometry

circumference= 3.14*diameter (well, I didn't remember it, but remembered to look up the formula!)

hubcyclist

PS, I did measure the circumference of my handlebars, turns out it's 26mm diameter, so that should open up some options for replacement

FBinNY 

There's no rules on this. I've been riding with the bottom tilted for 45+ years. I initially did it to move the bottom forward and improve knee room with the barcons, but later fine tuned it by taste. So years ago, folks tole me I was wrong, and now, without changing anything I'm right.

Anyway, IMO, and discounting the issue of clearance with barcons, the bar angle should be set according to the angle of the section f the curve above the brake levers. This is a section of the bar which is useful as a riding position (I've never ridden using the last 6" of the bar) so having it at a comfortable angle should trump all else. Then the brake levers can be positioned accordingly.

Another way applies to bars with a multi-radius curve in the drops. On these, the open position grip size of the levers changes as they're moved along the curve. So, find the lever position where the grip size is right, then set the bar so the lever is in the right place when riding.

So, that's two ways to think about the bar angle, and there are others. It's not about rules, it's about making the bar work for you.

fietsbob

Free: just rotate the bars up further , so the drops point in a line towards the rear axle and not level ..

true long brifter hoods, to fit in the shift Mech , begat short ramp bars .

back before then the brake lever body was shorter ..

hubcyclist

So, I made the adjustment, and at least an initial test feels a heck of a lot better, both as far as my reach to the hoods, my neck is more comfortable than in my previous position. So we'll see how this goes on a ride tomorrow

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3734/...bfd944_b_d.jpg

Carbonfiberboy 

Looks perfect. Those bars are probably fine.

chaadster

I agree, although there *may* be issues reaching the levers from the drops comfortably, and the upward kick of the hoods from the ramps *may* put the wrist at a weird angle if the rider is looking for a bit of extra reach, but those are very specific fit and riding style/condition issues, and there's every likelihood this is, indeed, perfect.

We'll be looking for a positive ride feedback report today!