smashndash

Hi,

I set up my bike to have a shorter reach by flipping my stem. I personally think that I would prefer an even shorter reach. When I had my stem flipped the other way, my hands would get numb and my shoulders would hurt. Now they don't as much but I still spend a lot of time on the tops because I feel that the hoods are hard to reach. I'd like to spend more time on the hoods since it's safer.

I'm concerned that this self diagnosis is misguided, though, because my favorite position on the bike is on the tops, leaned over all the way, with my elbows at an very acute angle, behind my knees.

I have never seen anyone else ride in my position and I've heard that actually going lower (not higher as I did) helps increase comfort, counter-intuitively. Any thoughts? Is there any way my setup could actually be correct for me and I should really be reducing my reach?

Clem von Jones

The top of my hands and wrists hit the bar-uppers in the drops when reach is inadequate. You'll start to feel a very distinct back-pressure in your palms while riding the drops that becomes painful over time. I get a very unpleasant jack-hammer fatigue if the stack is too high or the reach is too short.

Carbonfiberboy 

IMO a nice reach is when, hands on hoods, forearms horizontal, your elbows are just in front of your knees as you pedal. Some prefer a little less reach, but not much. Another thing to look for is when well bent over the bike and with a straight back, your upper arms are at right angles to your torso, hands on hoods or in drops. Both these things are true when reach is adequate.

Colnago Mixte

My rule of thumb for bike fitting is, when sitting on the bike (while on the hoods or in the drops) I look straight down. If I'm properly balanced I should see my handlebar tops blocking out the front axle.

The front axle can be slightly forward of the bar top or slightly back a bit. I don't sweat that too much because just sliding forward or back on the seat can dramatically change where the front axle falls.

I have 8 or 10 different bikes of various sizes I ride, but the axle to bar top alignment remains relatively consistent on all of them. It's something I'm constantly checking as I ride, especially if something does not feel right. I find it a very useful rule of thumb.

smashndash

This is interesting but I'm skeptical of it. I have really long neck. Someone whose neck were 1 inch shorter than mine would have a different result even if they were otherwise identical to me and thus needed the same reach.

I'll keep all this advice in mind next time I ride.

How do people feel about tipping saddles forward a bit to roll the hips forward more without increasing soft tissue pressure? This is something that I'm struggling with.

Brian25

Yes tipping your saddle down is generally a good thing to a point. (especially for riding in the drops) Find out what works for you. My experience has been to never exceed 6mm, 5mmm is a safer bet. 4 is generally good. I definitely start to fee increased hand pressure at 6 on is why I do not recommend it, or any more. As far as too close reach symptoms hitting your knee(s) on the handlebar is one I can think of. I try to have it where when you get out of the saddle you remain over the saddle, as apposed to getting pulled over the handlebars. I have to discount the "looking down and seeing the hub obscured" theory as total rubbish. The reason is that; different bikes have varying head angles from 70 to 75 degrees and different fork rakes from 25mm to 60mm. With the different angles/ fork rake it makes it where the hub can be located all over the place on different bikes.

smashndash

Yeah. For the record, the "hub obscured" check showed me that my reach is too short.... but I'm not going to put much stock into that because I know I have a long neck and short arms. Knees are definitely clear of the bars and I have no issues hovering over the saddle. I'm going to try out a shorter (172.5->170) crank because I definitely am not getting enough hip rotation without dealing with impingement. Once I do that if I still feel like I have to arch my back to pedal I'll try gently tipping the saddle 1 or 2mm.

Colnago Mixte

"I set up my bike to have a shorter reach by flipping my stem. I personally think that I would prefer an even shorter reach"

* checks alignment of bar top with front axle *

"Yeah. For the record, the "hub obscured" check showed me that my reach is too short...."

So by my method, your stem checks out as too short. All logic would indicate that you should . . . get an even shorter stem? OK fine. Try a shorter stem the, it's your back and neck, and your money paying for all these different stems. Good luck.