Red Austro Daimler Build
#51
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You nailed it. The spacing between the dropouts is fine, but the height of the driveside dropout is off. It’s 10mm at the back of the dropout, but only about 9mm at the opening. The non-driveside dropout is consistently about 10mm.
So is it even possible to open up the driveside dropout a bit? File it down to fit? Or is it safer just to live with it being kind of hard to get the wheel in and out?
This deformation typically occurs during shipping with the wheels removed. The gear hanger constitutes a protrusion such that when frame experiences a vertical drop it can hit first and take the impact.
+1 on advice posted above for cold setting.
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Serials - this does not apply in this case but it is something to be aware of with Styria products. They will oftimes exhibit two apparent serials on the underside of the bottom bracket. One number will be very evenly spaced and will appear almost "moulded in" while the other is clearly stamped in. The first number in such cases is not a serial but rather a lot number (found on contract built bicycles). If you have such a bike do not permit the lot number to be recorded by a licensing agency as there may be ten thousand bikes with this number. This number often gets recorded and can generate many false positives when serial number checking for stolen bicycles.
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#52
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Do not file it down. The DO steel is ductile enough to be bent back. Some suggest using the hole at the handle of an apptopriate size adjustable wrench over the lower end of the slot to bend it open. Just do it carefully and take it easy with repeated measurements so you do not go over the amount of bending you will need and you do not damage the brazed connections to the stays....
1mm shouldn't be too hard to bend out...
1mm shouldn't be too hard to bend out...
I ended up using the handle of an adjustable wrench to lever the dropout and open it up. It’s almost dead on now, and the wheel slides in smooth as silk.
#53
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I've gotta say, I'm not wowed by the looks of the Sugino seapost. But I'll have to wait until the bike is actually up and running, so I can measure just how long of a seapost I'll need. It shouldn't be too much longer now. I started truing the rear Mavic G40 wheel last night, and may have it finished this evening, if all goes well.
New rims strips and 27 X 1" Pasela PT's will be ordered tonight, along with a rim grommet for the front Mavic MA40. For some odd reason, the front wheel was drilled out to accept a Schrader valve. That wheel is also going to need a ton of work to true properly. But the Mavics seem to be worth the effort. The hubs spin sooooooooo EFFORTLESSLY. Like a dream.
New rims strips and 27 X 1" Pasela PT's will be ordered tonight, along with a rim grommet for the front Mavic MA40. For some odd reason, the front wheel was drilled out to accept a Schrader valve. That wheel is also going to need a ton of work to true properly. But the Mavics seem to be worth the effort. The hubs spin sooooooooo EFFORTLESSLY. Like a dream.
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? regarding dropout adjuster screws -
are both in backwards and broken off?
puzzling that head of drive side screw is painted over. suggests frame at least spot painted.
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? regarding dropout adjuster screws -
are both in backwards and broken off?
puzzling that head of drive side screw is painted over. suggests frame at least spot painted.
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#55
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I haven't played with the screws yet. But it looks like they're both broken off short, and the springs are missing. My bet is that the screws were originally stuck, and the heads were completely covered by the crazy paint job, so the owner or LBS just busted them off.
Last edited by AlmostGreenGuy; 07-11-18 at 04:17 PM.
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thank you -
yet another "mystery wrapped in an enigma"
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thank you -
yet another "mystery wrapped in an enigma"
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#57
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I finally made a bit more headway on the AD tonight. Both wheels are now true and round. But the rear wheel is iffy. A few off the nipples were stripped out, to where I couldn’t fully tighten the spokes. So new spokes are required in the offseason, if I don’t totally retire the wheel altogether. Is it possible to swap the axles in the front and back wheels, so the better quality wheel is on the rear?
New Pasela PT’s arrived, along with new rim strips. Unfortunately, the rim strips were a but too narrow. So I ran a length of Gorilla Tale on the inside, and laid down the rim strips on top of the tape.
I took apart the headset and removed the fork. I cleaned everything good, re-greased and reassembled it all. Putting it all back together proved problematic, as I didn’t have a proper headset wrench. I ended up using my digital calipers as a wrench, as they were the only thing thin enough not to interfere with the lock nut. I really need to buy a good headset wrench.
I’ve also started patching up some of the larger scratches with nail polish. But the paint job is so far gone, I feel like I’m polishing a turd.
The Cinelli stem and handlebar are now mounted. I tried installing the Shimano 600 brake levers, but ran into a snag. The Cinelli stem is slightly oversized, and the clamps on the levers won’t quite fit onto the bars. I’m considering sanding down the bars a hair, so the lever clamps fit properly.
The steering tube on the fork says REYNOLDS 531 BUTTED 16/13. Does anyone know what 16/13 means?
Last edited by AlmostGreenGuy; 07-17-18 at 07:43 PM.
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The mysteries continue with this bike. I managed to get the brake levers mounted tonight, as well as the front brake caliper and original cable. But for some strange reason, even at their highest setting, the brake pads aren’t high enough to fully contact the front rim. What is going on? Is it possible that this bike was intended to be used with 700C wheels, and not the 27” wheels that came with the bike? Or are the Brake calipers designed for 700C?
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That frame was definitely built for 700C wheels. I’m using 700C on mine with short reach brakes.
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I do have a set of 700C wheels on a Specialized Sirrus, with an 8-speed cassette on the rear. Maybe I can get those wheels to work. But sounds like I'll have to change the dropout spacing from 126mm to 130mm.
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Uggghhhhhh..... So I guess I just bought a set of spare Pasela PT's for my Motobecane, and I need to find some 700C wheels and tires for the AD.
I do have a set of 700C wheels on a Specialized Sirrus, with an 8-speed cassette on the rear. Maybe I can get those wheels to work. But sounds like I'll have to change the dropout spacing from 126mm to 130mm.
I do have a set of 700C wheels on a Specialized Sirrus, with an 8-speed cassette on the rear. Maybe I can get those wheels to work. But sounds like I'll have to change the dropout spacing from 126mm to 130mm.
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Sounds good. And if I'm using the Sirrus as parts for this bike, I may just go a step further, and rob the triple chain ring from it. That would eliminate of the crazy oval Biospace chainring, and the oddball half-step plus granny gearing. I'll have to think on that one.
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#64
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@Scooper knows. Or at least he did in 2011: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-markings.html
My wife now refers to this AD as The Enigma. LOL
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It certainly is an enigma. There seem to be a good many of them around relative to the very sparse amount of information available. That is to say, if you ask about a Vent Noir, people know about it. This one? Not so much.
Have you seen this: My Austro-Daimler "Vent Noir II" Bicycle And Brief History of Steyr Daimler Puch ?
I think that's got the best evidence that your bike is an Ultima. Specifically:
Your bike (like mine) is definitely "Bordeaux red" (which is one reason I would be very reluctant to give up on the paint, no matter how bad it is). Unfortunately, there were relatively entry level AD-S and SE models produced in this color that show up more often and are seen in available catalog scans which seem to be what a lot of people associate with that color when trying to recall vintage A-Ds. It doesn't help that this "Ultima" is just about the only A-D model I've seen that doesn't have the model name on the top tube.
Have you seen this: My Austro-Daimler "Vent Noir II" Bicycle And Brief History of Steyr Daimler Puch ?
I think that's got the best evidence that your bike is an Ultima. Specifically:
After that good deal of forethought and preparation at Lifecycle, Gene Ritvo made the first of several trips to Graz, Austria to discuss these matters directly with production management and technicians. Gene also had in hand his big passion: color charts. Gene was proudest of development of the Ultima, their top line model originally finished in a red termed "Bordeaux Red" then later in the distinctive purple aubergine color, the Super leicht (super light) model, the unprecedented all black Vent Noir with black finished components that was later followed by the lustrous smoked chrome Vent Noir II (sometimes marketed as the Vent Noir). Several of the suggestions by Lifecycle were also rolled over by Steyr-Daimler-Puch into a then undisclosed, overlapping line of Puch brand bike models.
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#66
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And the Daimler build has taken an unexpected turn. I mounted some 700C wheels today from a Specialized Sirrus, as well as the cranks and chainrings. The Lepree wasn’t able to handle all 8 gears from the rear cassette, but 7 weren’t a problem. So not bad.
I took her out for her first spin and ............. it quickly became apparent that the frame was too small for me, and no amount of seat post adjusting and stem changing was going to change it. Too small. Uggghhhhhhhhhh...........
So I lowered the seat a bit, called my daughter outside, and had her take it out for a spin. The bike fit her perfectly. She took to it instantly, zipping around the neighborhood. The Austro Daimler is now officially hers. Her first vintage bike, and her first road bike as well. She’s very excited.
The only change she wanted was something other than downtube shifting. She didn’t like that at all. So I popped on some Suntour stem shifters, and I’m just waiting on some downtube cable stops to complete the change.
I lost a bike today, that I was really excited about riding. But I did gain a new road riding partner, and have another way of spending time with my daughter, so I’m calling it a good day.
I took her out for her first spin and ............. it quickly became apparent that the frame was too small for me, and no amount of seat post adjusting and stem changing was going to change it. Too small. Uggghhhhhhhhhh...........
So I lowered the seat a bit, called my daughter outside, and had her take it out for a spin. The bike fit her perfectly. She took to it instantly, zipping around the neighborhood. The Austro Daimler is now officially hers. Her first vintage bike, and her first road bike as well. She’s very excited.
The only change she wanted was something other than downtube shifting. She didn’t like that at all. So I popped on some Suntour stem shifters, and I’m just waiting on some downtube cable stops to complete the change.
I lost a bike today, that I was really excited about riding. But I did gain a new road riding partner, and have another way of spending time with my daughter, so I’m calling it a good day.
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Probably no better outcome than that for a bike that’s too small... Great that you can ride with your daughter now!