Correlating body measurements to bike geometry - help a newbie
#1
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Correlating body measurements to bike geometry - help a newbie
Not really a newbie as I've been cycling a while but have never had a bike fitting and ride a used bike that I've only done some basic adjustments on in regards to fit. I do rides up to about 5 hours without any serious discomfort. Having said that, I don't really know if the bike geometry is good for me or not. One area in particular is knee over pedal position. I've got a 25mm offset seatpost with seat as far back as it will go and my kneecap is still forward of the pedal at 3:00.
At some point, I'm looking to get a new bike and probably spend a fair amount so naturally would like to have an understanding of what might fit. So how does one measure themselves and how do those measurements relate to geometry numbers? Is there a good resource for understanding this better? I see that places like Competitive Cyclist have measuring tools but it seems they are just going to tell you which bikes fit from the ones they sell.
At some point, I'm looking to get a new bike and probably spend a fair amount so naturally would like to have an understanding of what might fit. So how does one measure themselves and how do those measurements relate to geometry numbers? Is there a good resource for understanding this better? I see that places like Competitive Cyclist have measuring tools but it seems they are just going to tell you which bikes fit from the ones they sell.
#2
Junior Member
I have a friend who ran hurdles, and told me that running is leaning forward with legs going up and down. I saw a bike position video that explained the same thing relative to saddle and handle bar position. So I tried a bunch of bikes and came to appreciate the sloping top tube and long head tube for my desired riding position. This gave me the relative position I wanted (on and off the saddle). I ended buying a Specialized Roubaix 2015, the bike geometry gave me my desired position.
So with this said, bike geometry is relative to body measurements for fit. I tried several manufacturers, in two sizes per bike. I determined that larger frame felt good on saddle but too large off saddle. The opposite with the smaller frame size, but on the saddle, with a longer stem gave me better aero performance. I went with the smaller frame. Comparing all of the geometries, they all were within a cm or so (Stack, Reach, TT, and Seat Tube) Which is adjustable by stem or seat post for fit.
My body measurements and bike fit to maximize performance is always on my mind. So as you mentioned 5 hours on a bike required comfort. I can’t imagine 5 hour of sprinting. So comfort drove position, and position was addressed by bike geometry. That is to say, if I wanted pure performance, i.e., Time Trial, I’d have a different position hence a different geometry. Then given my body measurement I’d find a bike that fits. The 3:00 knee, for me is impossible for the type of bike I want and my long thighs and longer calves. I may be able to get it with 180 length cranks but I never tried. Also, peddle radius and cadence is important to performance but is also a complex matter I’ll set aside for this discussion.
Conclusion: Once I figured geometry (which I think is the bike type e.g., road, mountain, endurance, hybrid, touring, or cruiser etc.) fit became the goal. Once I was able to achieve fit, ride performance was compared. Lastly, unless you get a custom bike, off the shelf geometry is really a comparison once you have ridden the different brands and models for a given type. I found myself comparing different geometries for different bike types for position. Different geometries within a type for fit (given my body). Thanks for letting me share my experience. I hope it makes sense.
So with this said, bike geometry is relative to body measurements for fit. I tried several manufacturers, in two sizes per bike. I determined that larger frame felt good on saddle but too large off saddle. The opposite with the smaller frame size, but on the saddle, with a longer stem gave me better aero performance. I went with the smaller frame. Comparing all of the geometries, they all were within a cm or so (Stack, Reach, TT, and Seat Tube) Which is adjustable by stem or seat post for fit.
My body measurements and bike fit to maximize performance is always on my mind. So as you mentioned 5 hours on a bike required comfort. I can’t imagine 5 hour of sprinting. So comfort drove position, and position was addressed by bike geometry. That is to say, if I wanted pure performance, i.e., Time Trial, I’d have a different position hence a different geometry. Then given my body measurement I’d find a bike that fits. The 3:00 knee, for me is impossible for the type of bike I want and my long thighs and longer calves. I may be able to get it with 180 length cranks but I never tried. Also, peddle radius and cadence is important to performance but is also a complex matter I’ll set aside for this discussion.
Conclusion: Once I figured geometry (which I think is the bike type e.g., road, mountain, endurance, hybrid, touring, or cruiser etc.) fit became the goal. Once I was able to achieve fit, ride performance was compared. Lastly, unless you get a custom bike, off the shelf geometry is really a comparison once you have ridden the different brands and models for a given type. I found myself comparing different geometries for different bike types for position. Different geometries within a type for fit (given my body). Thanks for letting me share my experience. I hope it makes sense.
#3
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What you have going on is huge. Most cyclists write in with problems. I.E. back discomfort, hand issues etc... The fact that you like your position a really big. The first step that I would suggest is to draw snap a picture of your bike or download a bike picture. 2nd Take these three measurements and draw them onto the bike picture. A. bottom bracket center to the seat top. B. Saddle nose front to the handlebar center. C. handlebar center to the top of the front tire. It sounds like these measures are working for you you need to keep record of them. In other words don't buy a new bike with the handlebars two inches lower to the front wheel, compared to your current bike, now that you will know what measurement is.
#4
Banned
old bike manual by C.O.N.I. Italian Olympic commttee from when Rome hosted the olympics
gives a good deal of info on the racing disciplines
there is a PDF of it online , print copies being collector items...
gives a good deal of info on the racing disciplines
there is a PDF of it online , print copies being collector items...
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