Help me pick a saddle, please.
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Help me pick a saddle, please.
The bike I'm putting together will be a commuter/exercise bike. Short trips, mostly, but I'm 275#. I'm trying to decide between a Brooks B33:
And a Brooks B135:
In favor of the former is that the triple-wound rear coil springs are reputed to have more weight capacity than the single springs of the B135.
In favor of the latter is an internet reputation of the B33 to break those triple-wound springs.
At the same time, I'm open to alternate suggestions to the Brooks pair PROVIDED that the manufacturer specifically recommends their seats for 200-pound-plus riders.
Thanks - FH
Two others I just ran across via Google:
The Schwinn Quilted Bike Seat ($21 @ Walmart):
and also the Serfas CRS1 Super Cruiser Saddle (which may be just too much):
And a Brooks B135:
In favor of the former is that the triple-wound rear coil springs are reputed to have more weight capacity than the single springs of the B135.
In favor of the latter is an internet reputation of the B33 to break those triple-wound springs.
At the same time, I'm open to alternate suggestions to the Brooks pair PROVIDED that the manufacturer specifically recommends their seats for 200-pound-plus riders.
Thanks - FH
Two others I just ran across via Google:
The Schwinn Quilted Bike Seat ($21 @ Walmart):
and also the Serfas CRS1 Super Cruiser Saddle (which may be just too much):
Last edited by FarHorizon; 12-12-14 at 06:23 PM.
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I have one of a brooks B73 which also has a lot of springs. Lovely saddle but I find it a bit overkill. I really like the B67 though and it works on a modern seatpost. With the double rail saddles, you will need a seat sandwich if you want to use a modern micro-adjusting seatpost.
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I have both a straight and a "micro-adjust" seat post, so either type saddle will work fine for me. I'm also thinking that to try the style without spending the $$, there are lots of "Brooks imitations" on eBay for ⅓ or less the cost of a Brooks. I wouldn't expect them to be as durable, but I could at least try the design to determine whether or not it worked for me. If I specifically liked one or another, then I could resell the imitation and buy a Brooks. Jumping straight into a Brooks without having tried the "architecture" of the saddle is an expensive experiment...
A typical replica for $27.89:
Another for $42.99
A typical replica for $27.89:
Another for $42.99
Last edited by FarHorizon; 12-12-14 at 06:41 PM.
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Dem springy things looks dangerous if one assplodes, shrapnel in all the wrong places.
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The fake Brooks saddles look the part but they are not as comfy. They never seem to break in like the real deal. And remember a Brooks does need to break in. The first 100-200 miles you may think you wasted your cash but once they break in it's like it fits your butt just right!
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Yeah - I've heard all the Brooks fans say that the imitations aren't as well made, aren't as comfortable, don't last as long, and either break in too quickly or break in too slowly. I've never heard anything but rumor to support those claims, though. Making a bicycle saddle isn't magic - Equal thickness leather + equal thickness metal = equal quality saddles, IMHO. Now I do note that none of the imitations are exactly the same in dimensions or spring style as the Brooks. Maybe Brooks just has good lawyers and knows how to use them...
But with a Brooks B135 starting new at $180 and a B33 at $200, I may be willing to experiment for $27.89...
But with a Brooks B135 starting new at $180 and a B33 at $200, I may be willing to experiment for $27.89...
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Yeah - I've heard all the Brooks fans say that the imitations aren't as well made, aren't as comfortable, don't last as long, and either break in too quickly or break in too slowly. I've never heard anything but rumor to support those claims, though. Making a bicycle saddle isn't magic - Equal thickness leather + equal thickness metal = equal quality saddles, IMHO. Now I do note that none of the imitations are exactly the same in dimensions or spring style as the Brooks. Maybe Brooks just has good lawyers and knows how to use them...
But with a Brooks B135 starting new at $180 and a B33 at $200, I may be willing to experiment for $27.89...
But with a Brooks B135 starting new at $180 and a B33 at $200, I may be willing to experiment for $27.89...
I think a good saddle is really all about your sit bones. Like you read all over measure that and find one that fits that width. And remember too wide isn't comfy either
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go to your LBS and sit on their saddle measure device. Typically three sizes, than groove or no groove. Anything beyond that is cosmetic
Why not get a B17, less bling and less spring
Why not get a B17, less bling and less spring
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Sheldon Brown: "Despite fashion, I believe that saddles with built-in springs make a great deal of sense for most cyclists, who favor a fairly upright riding position which puts more of the rider's weight on the saddle."
I agree with Mr. Brown on this issue, and because this bike WILL be an "upright position" one rather than a "racer," I do plan to use a somewhat wider seat profile with a sprung suspension.
I also see that Mr. Brown is a fanboy of Brooks saddles: "...good saddles are made of thick, high quality leather. In addition, there is the question of grain. Leather, like wood, has a natural grain pattern to it. When saddle tops are to be cut out of a hide, the cutter has a choice. The cheap way is to get the largest number of saddle tops from a given hide with the least wastage of leather. The quality way is to cut the saddle tops in such a way that the grain runs straight down the middle of the saddle....a good leather saddle will last for many years. It can be expensive, but it will outlast several synthetic saddles, and cost less in the long run. There used to be many brands of leather saddles, but two names in particular stood out for the highest quality: Brooks of England and Idéale of France; Idéale saddles are no longer made. Brooks is still very much in business, and sells by far the most leather saddles in the USA."
So perhaps the cost of a Brooks is justified...
As to "fitting" the saddle to the width of my particular pelvic bones, this would be a significant issue were I riding long distances or racing. But because the effective width or your own bones varies significantly with pelvis tilt, and because I'll be able to move about on my bike (fore to aft & torso/pelvis tilt), I consider the selection of saddle width by a specific measurement to be virtually worthless. The fitmeisters at the LBS agree. For a racing bike (or a racer wannabe), then yes, a fit is probably justified, but not for me. That said, I'll probably "get fit" anyway. The cost is trivial compared to the cost of the Brooks saddle, and it might help inform my choice. If nothing else, it will indicate which (if any) saddles are too narrow.
I agree with Mr. Brown on this issue, and because this bike WILL be an "upright position" one rather than a "racer," I do plan to use a somewhat wider seat profile with a sprung suspension.
I also see that Mr. Brown is a fanboy of Brooks saddles: "...good saddles are made of thick, high quality leather. In addition, there is the question of grain. Leather, like wood, has a natural grain pattern to it. When saddle tops are to be cut out of a hide, the cutter has a choice. The cheap way is to get the largest number of saddle tops from a given hide with the least wastage of leather. The quality way is to cut the saddle tops in such a way that the grain runs straight down the middle of the saddle....a good leather saddle will last for many years. It can be expensive, but it will outlast several synthetic saddles, and cost less in the long run. There used to be many brands of leather saddles, but two names in particular stood out for the highest quality: Brooks of England and Idéale of France; Idéale saddles are no longer made. Brooks is still very much in business, and sells by far the most leather saddles in the USA."
So perhaps the cost of a Brooks is justified...
As to "fitting" the saddle to the width of my particular pelvic bones, this would be a significant issue were I riding long distances or racing. But because the effective width or your own bones varies significantly with pelvis tilt, and because I'll be able to move about on my bike (fore to aft & torso/pelvis tilt), I consider the selection of saddle width by a specific measurement to be virtually worthless. The fitmeisters at the LBS agree. For a racing bike (or a racer wannabe), then yes, a fit is probably justified, but not for me. That said, I'll probably "get fit" anyway. The cost is trivial compared to the cost of the Brooks saddle, and it might help inform my choice. If nothing else, it will indicate which (if any) saddles are too narrow.
#10
Still learning
I have both a straight and a "micro-adjust" seat post, so either type saddle will work fine for me. I'm also thinking that to try the style without spending the $$, there are lots of "Brooks imitations" on eBay for ⅓ or less the cost of a Brooks. I wouldn't expect them to be as durable, but I could at least try the design to determine whether or not it worked for me. If I specifically liked one or another, then I could resell the imitation and buy a Brooks. Jumping straight into a Brooks without having tried the "architecture" of the saddle is an expensive experiment...
Buy your Brooks from REI. Their return policy is pretty liberal.
i have a Velo-Orange model 3, it is not a Brooks. The leather is rock hard and the metal finish is not as elegant.
Last edited by oddjob2; 12-13-14 at 07:44 AM.
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Thanks, @oddjob2 - Between you & all the others who say the same thing, I'm convinced. Brooks it is. Now have you any specific recommendation between the B33, B190, and B135? I'm tending toward the latter, but am open to guidance.
I appreciate the help - and this goes to ALL who have been kind enough to respond. Thanks again! FarHorizon
I appreciate the help - and this goes to ALL who have been kind enough to respond. Thanks again! FarHorizon
#12
Still learning
I really don't like the stacked double spring look. I'd either pick the B33 or the Flyer. Despite my weight, a normal B17 works fine.
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↑↑↑↑ This. I use a B17 and it was fine all the way from my old 308 pounds to my current 230.
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Thanks, but you miss the point - I want a sprung saddle since this will be an upright position bike. I have a B17, and although it has worked on other bikes, it isn't to my taste on this one. The weight limit is less critical on unsprung saddles - You can merely tighten the saddle with its adjustment nut if it sags. If the springs fail, however, the saddle is shot.
For this reason, the B66, B67, and B33 are going off my list. Choices left are the 135 and the 190. The only "advantage" that I know of for the 190 is that it is wider. Since I'm not THAT heavy, I'm probably going with the B135.
Since they're throw-away cheap, I'll also try the Serfas Cruiser Gel, but I don't have any high hopes for it...
I'll post a photo of the bike once it's finished here so y'all can giggle! LOL
Thanks again - FH
For this reason, the B66, B67, and B33 are going off my list. Choices left are the 135 and the 190. The only "advantage" that I know of for the 190 is that it is wider. Since I'm not THAT heavy, I'm probably going with the B135.
Since they're throw-away cheap, I'll also try the Serfas Cruiser Gel, but I don't have any high hopes for it...
I'll post a photo of the bike once it's finished here so y'all can giggle! LOL
Thanks again - FH
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