Time trial wheels
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Time trial wheels
I want to get some TT wheels but I don’t have much cash to spend. I could get some old spinergy rev x wheels or some new Chinese wheels. Which is less dangerous? I’d love to get some old hed tri-spokes but even old ones are pretty expensive.
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Spend ~$400 on a set of Zipp 808 tubulars on ebay. Glue tires to them even if you've never glued before because in TT's you're not even really cornering. or simply wait until we have our used wheel section added to our sites and buy from there.
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Buy a disc wheel and an 808 or something for the front. Tubular. Cheap and fast.
RevX? That's seriously not a smart consideration.
RevX? That's seriously not a smart consideration.
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You could go with a DISC on the rear and a deep dished wheel in front..
You could go with a DISC on the rear and a deep dished wheel in front..
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On a budget, wheelbuilder disc cover on the back all day long. Then get a good front (808, HED trispoke, etc...). If dead set on a cheap rear disc, buy 11spd and shave the freehub down. Renn or an old fairing style HED. I went with the Renn since it's flat and works better with my frame style.
If you have vertical dropouts, likely a lenticular is faster for you. If you have rear facing "track" dropouts, your frame is faired to the wheel/tire shape already and can likely be as fast or faster with a flat disc.
The dropouts are that style because you can't drop a wheel straight down without hitting the frame if the wheel is shrouded. Hence, rear dropout.
If you have vertical dropouts, likely a lenticular is faster for you. If you have rear facing "track" dropouts, your frame is faired to the wheel/tire shape already and can likely be as fast or faster with a flat disc.
The dropouts are that style because you can't drop a wheel straight down without hitting the frame if the wheel is shrouded. Hence, rear dropout.
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Sad!
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Back on topic please.
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On a budget, wheelbuilder disc cover on the back all day long. Then get a good front (808, HED trispoke, etc...). If dead set on a cheap rear disc, buy 11spd and shave the freehub down. Renn or an old fairing style HED. I went with the Renn since it's flat and works better with my frame style.
If you have vertical dropouts, likely a lenticular is faster for you. If you have rear facing "track" dropouts, your frame is faired to the wheel/tire shape already and can likely be as fast or faster with a flat disc.
The dropouts are that style because you can't drop a wheel straight down without hitting the frame if the wheel is shrouded. Hence, rear dropout.
If you have vertical dropouts, likely a lenticular is faster for you. If you have rear facing "track" dropouts, your frame is faired to the wheel/tire shape already and can likely be as fast or faster with a flat disc.
The dropouts are that style because you can't drop a wheel straight down without hitting the frame if the wheel is shrouded. Hence, rear dropout.
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Yeah, but they specifically state to NOT ride them all day long. Or every day. Or even that much.
Mine lasted like 8 races before I had to do some serious taping to keep the thing on. And at that point, the hassle wasn't even worth it.
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There is a place making a slight more expensive carbon disc cover. Can’t find it right now.
Some folks though might race twice a year. That may be fine if 8 uses lasts them 4 years.
#21
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How fast are you? If your 40K time is above 1:05 don't even think about aero. Well, think about getting your position on the bike aero. Get some old tubular wheels, light ones. Light is going to matter at whatever speed you roll. I picked up a set 2 weeks ago for free. Ofmega hubs, Aspin rims, Campag QRs, corncob freewheel. Perfect condition, ready to roll, free. Old guys with a basement full of this stuff are giving it away. You might need some mechanical knowledge to make the old narrow wheels run with your newer bike, no amount of mechanical assistance is going to keep a Spinergy intact.
If you are faster just keep shopping. Sellers think because they paid a lot for the wheel and barely used it they should recover something. After a while they figure out their garage is packed with old ****e they can't sell. Then price meets reality. It's a hobby. An expensive hobby.
#23
~>~
Oddly enough it's not 1969 anymore when the total mechanical prep we did for a TT was:
1) Bury stem (we knew aerodynamics mattered)
b) Fit straight block on race wheels (nice tight gears to keep optimal cadence)
III) Install mechanical stopwatch/holder (be sure to wind the watch)
Have at it.
OP: Are you riding Merckx Class on a "standard" bike in the local TT?
If so consult the organizer on allowed rim depth, helmet/kit type and HB config before spending a $ to avoid a DQ pre-ride.
If on an open class UCI compliant TT machine run what you brung, and as in our era: Have at it.
-Bandera
1) Bury stem (we knew aerodynamics mattered)
b) Fit straight block on race wheels (nice tight gears to keep optimal cadence)
III) Install mechanical stopwatch/holder (be sure to wind the watch)
Have at it.
OP: Are you riding Merckx Class on a "standard" bike in the local TT?
If so consult the organizer on allowed rim depth, helmet/kit type and HB config before spending a $ to avoid a DQ pre-ride.
If on an open class UCI compliant TT machine run what you brung, and as in our era: Have at it.
-Bandera
Last edited by Bandera; 04-28-19 at 05:38 PM.
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Good to know! I was thinking about a wheelcover for TTs, but not if it won't last. I'll just save up for a full disc.