SoCaled 

Inspired by my cheapness, desire to see things re-used, stupidity and our very own @AdventureManCO I decided to try my hand at a DIY leather wrap on some clamp-on grips on a Cinelli Mystic a friend gave me. The grips originally were wrapped with 2 layers of Cinelli tape - under layer was black cork tape, top was brown fake leather.

I started with leather from a "Smoking Chair" listed on OfferUp a few blocks from my house for $20 . When I inquired, the seller said they had put it out on the curb, then messaged back that it was still there. Chair was too big to move and had some bad areas, so I pulled out the razor knife and "harvested" the leather.



I cut a strip from a more narrow section to save larger pieces for bigger projects (seat re-covering?)


I was struggling to cut a clean line, even with a straight edge and then remembered when I was cutting leather on the laser, I would stick down with Super 77 spray to keep flat, and then cut. Didn't have any spray, but did have some good double stick tape, used that to stick the leather down flat.
I had the original piece of wrap as a template, started cutting the leather with the razor knife, but was not getting a clean cut, so I switched to a single edge razor, with a thinner blade.



Decided to do a test wrap, for proof of concept and to make sure I wasn't missing anything obvious.
With the remnant of the double sided tape still on the end of the newly cut piece, I started to wrap the grip, stating with pointy end forward.


On the first try I was overlapping too much and came up short, started again with smaller overlap, that seemed to work out



Overlaps could/will be more even on final product. When I got to the end I took a needle and thread and went through the point and then wrapped around the grip securing the end



I need to get some more/better thread so I can go around multiple times and properly secure the end, temporarily held in place with needle




The leather I got from the chair has darker shades in different places, now that I know this will work, I am going to cut new ones from a darker section to better match the bike.
So my plan is:

• Repeat the cutting steps above with the darker leather and make two new strips
• Add double sided tape to the back of the leather strips
• Wrap as shown above
• Get some new thread and use to secure inside edge with multiple wraps

My question, for this knowledgeable group, what could I or should I do differently?

• Wrap a different direction?
• Skiv the leather first? the edges don't bother me, will they get worse?
• More overlap?
• Different way to secure the end?
• ??? other thoughts?

I tried to go back through the Huffente thread for info, I thought @PastorBobinnh had dropped some knowledge there, but I got lost in the nearly 2,000 posts! I did see a sneaky under-loop AdventuremanCO used on the thread to secure the end of the wrap, but was not sure of the advantage?

Happy to hear if anyone has thought or suggestions?

AdventureManCO 

Looks good! You’ve got good overlap. I was always working with pieces that were too short, and felt stressed to make it work for the right length, so my overlap was terrible.

Skiving the leather is the best way, but never again how I did it. I cut myself multiple times, and doing it freehand like I did was super hokey. A true leather skiving tool is the way to go if you do it.

That was a stroke of brilliance to repurpose old leather from chairs! The thinner the leather, the better. I do feel it is one of the better options for grip tape if you’ve got the patience to let it age with you. There’s nothing quite like the look of old, seasoned leather.

gugie 

I'm liking it, yessir, liking it a lot!

USAZorro

Out of curiosity, why that approach vice this?



Eventually, many of my favorites will have this style of leather wrap.

Note that the image above is not mine and is used only for illustrative purposes.

pastorbobnlnh 

Thanks for the mention.

I prefer the approach USAzorro takes, i.e. stitched on leather bar covers. I've actually been adding a dense foam layer underneath to add padding. I realize some don't prefer the thicker diameter, but my hands and wrists appreciate the extra cushion (and yes, I do wear padded gloves).

My preference is to use a thick goathide leather. It is very soft and pliable. The 'gator cover was embossed cowhide and is not as compliant to the bends on the bars. Both examples below have the foam padding underneath.

My '71 Paramount P13 with goathide covers.

'75 Schwinn Voyageur II with 'gator embossed cowhide covers and brake lever hoods.

Velo Mule

For handgrips, I'm liking the look of the wrap and overlap method that @SoCaled is using. It does have more potential to unravel, but that is further down on the list of why to do something.

I also like the idea of using a leather chair for your material. Hmm, a belt will work too. Most are split grain and sewn to a backing leather. So, if the stiches get cut, we'd have two pieces out of the belt. The backer is useless to us but the outer leather is what we'd want. If it had embossing that might be interesting. I've got to keep this in mind. I don't see too many leather sofas going cheap, but belts I do see at thrift stores.

Would you use some of the leather for a seat? Have you seen @ascherer 's bike where he wrapped his main triangle tubes in leather? This is a great idea for a common wear place. I would be tempted to just do the top tube.

Picture used without permission.

Ascherer said "The bike may be a commuter, but it's not a beater." I agree. Link to BikeForum thread.

Sorry to go off topic a bit, but having extra, mostly matching, leather gets the gears turning.

Keep us up to date with the progress. It's looking good already.

pastorbobnlnh 

SoCaled I didn't notice the single edge razor blade in one of your pictures while on my phone last night.

For precision straight cuts, I use a new utility knife with the break-away blade sections (or something similar) and a metal ruler with a cork bottom. I also have a large cutting mat marked out in one-inch grids, and several long transparent crafting rulers.

Use light pressure and make several passes as you gradually cut through the leather hide. When/if you notice the blade beginning to "catch" on the leather instead of gliding through, break off that section of the blade, and continue using a new section.

Hope this is helpful.

Mr. 66

I scraped out a old ottoman for my last wrap, I like to stitch up as well here is that from the last fall

SoCaled 

I watched a couple of videos of people skiving looks like it takes a proper tool and some practice - something to I would like to get to

I had seen a leather couch on the side of the road during a previous bike ride, when I had nothing with me. I went back the next morning and it was gone. A few days later I went out on a ride and crisscrossed all the alleys, close but no cigar, kept finding "leatherette" vinyl junk. There are a few places in LA where you can buy scrap leather and I had been meaning to take a trip (still am) in the meantime found this chair! I have had the idea for a while, but you doing fighting the leather on the Huffente was a push to give it a try.

zandoval 

I really don't have an answer for ya but I want to comment that the wrap looks better then longitudinally stitched on leather. Bravo! It's a great job. It would appear that a template is very much needed and Skiving the leather too. The stitched end is appropriate. Did you use something like a spray adhesive on the back of the leather before wrapping? I am very interested in seeing how durable this type wrap is.

Very Nice...

SoCaled 

I also want to try this method. I think I went with the wrap, because that was what was on the grips originally. I had looked at how this stitched version was done and it seemed like it would be reasonably easy to do, for my application (drop bars I might want to work up to?). I wasn't sure that the leather I had was thick enough? and although I am sure I could have improvised, I don't have any leather punches (or any leather tools for that matter). I looked at another example that instead of using "thick goathide leather" they used leather about as thick as what I have, they did straight stitching down the two long sides and then stitched those two together like a steering wheel cover https://www.triumphrat.net/threads/g...ost-2003997702 this method seemed like it would work with the material I had.

SoCaled 

Yep seat re-covering was definitely on the list of things I want to try, from reading the thread someone recently started on this i think this leather might be a bit thick for this application but i plan to give it a try.
I don't know that I had seen @ascherer sweet bike with leather tube covers, nice! But I had seen others designed to stop dings from bar hits & wraps to protect frame when locking the bike I had planned to try my hand at one/some of those, maybe with velcro so they could be moved from bike to bike? I cut the mention from your quote, but i will have to be careful with "matching" leather, as the various parts of the cahir have very different tones.

SoCaled 

Thanks for replying, your leather work is to be aspired too. I will have to try the "breakaway blade" again, that is usually my go-to, I tend to have an Olfa snap blade in my pocket at all times. The one I was using for this was not new, which was probably the problem. That said. I am curious if you have a blade recommendation because I have a recollection of having issues cutting leather with my snap off before and switching to a exacto and getting cleaner results? I am seeing your advice to make several passes and that may well be the key, along with fresh blade.

SoCaled 

That is some nice looking work, congrats

SoCaled 

I think I also like the wrap better for "grips" but would like to try the stitched method for Drop bars.
So far this was just the test wrap. I didn't/don't have any spray adhesive in the supplies currently, but do have a thin double side tape that makes a very strong bond. I have never used it in this application, so I will see how it works out (test using tape to hold the leather stretched out, to cut, was promising). The starting end of the wrap should have good overlap pressure and the end will be tightly secured with thread so hoping with that the tape will be enough to keep everything in place? have a feeling this might be the first iteration?

VRJAKE 

I've tried a couple variations on flat bar grips. The braided weave with leftover Walnut wrap. Also sewed a rectangular piece for a smooth look. Like the idea of padding under the wrap as thin leather on a flat bar makes for sore palms. Note, instead of thread to finish the braided grip, a thin strip of electric tape held up very well.

SoCaled 

@VRJAKE that braided method looks nice. How thick was the leather? Do you have any pics of from when you did this?

VRJAKE 

No pics of the assembly. May have used double sided tape underneath. I've done a couple braided wraps, the leather wrap was from Walnut, quite thin strips that were very pliable. You need 4 strips, but shorter length than a coil wrap. Typical to wet the leather (on any kind of leather wrap job), it tightens a bit when it dries. Pictured some track drop bars with cloth tape, you can get some very fun patterns using different colored tape. Googled how to videos on braiding. Here's a link to Walnut's method:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/01...f?v=1652222593

USAZorro

I think what you have would work. I picked up a couple sets of the old Velo Orange Elkhide wrap kits on closeout about 10-12 years back. It's fairly lightweight - I suspect comparable to pastorbob's goatskin. I also have a DIY using reqular Veg tan leather. It was probably 3-4 times as thick and rather stiff. I was able to work with it after soaking it, and it looks reasonably nice (I used leather paint on it), but I prefer the softness of elk hide and goatskin. I did this before I picked up a skiving knife (a gamechanger), and once I got the width right, I used a punch to make the lacing holes. If I were to attempt it again, I'd go with the lacing orientation that mr. 66 used.

Some pictures of the process and result:

SoCaled 

Back to thoughts on sourcing leather, on the cheap, here are some other places my "scrappy' eyes have seen leather available. Obviously there are limitations to this approach, but viable for many projects.

• Couches, chairs, upholstered headboards, etc - On the curb, in alleys, in free section of Craigslist/OfferUp, etc.
• Handbags, garment bags, aprons, leather jackets, etc - at Goodwill/Thrift stores/Garage sales, etc
• Handbags, garment bags, aprons, leather jackets, etc - at Ross/TJ Maxx/Marshall's, etc
• Leather store "scrap bins" - if you are lucky enough to have one

wschruba

You'll want a skiver for feathering the edges if you are after a seamless look like you can get with regular handlebar tapes.



You can get passable machines from ebay/Amazon that are of the exact same pattern (and only slightly lower quality/more fussing required), but lack the extreme price of the German version. A motor-powered bell-skiver would be ideal (looks like/is based off of a Singer sewing machine), but prohibitively expensive for hobbyist use. Buy a few sets of cheaper name-brand blades to go with them, as sharpness counts (You can get a gross of Wilkinson Swords fairly cheap). You'll get 2-4 long skives (depending on the length of the leather) out of each side of the blade before you either need to strop/replace it.

IMO, skiving a long strip by hand, consistently, with a skiving knife is...quite laborious. The Scharffix takes some practice to get running nicely, but sails through large amounts once you get the hang of it.

pastorbobnlnh 

wschruba thanks for posting about the Skiving Machine/Tool. Now I know what to ask Santa for Christmas.

SoCaled 

I had been dreaming up a DIY version of this before you posted it. Based on the fact that nearly everyone says you need to buy the $300 German version over the identical looking $89 Chinese version, I am assuming that would not have worked very well. That is a cool little machine.

SoCaled 

Dug through my supplies trying to find new snap-off blades, couldn't seem to find them in the piles, but did find a nice C&V alternative



Picked a new piece of the leather that matches the bike better


Hard to believe these came off of the same chair!

Added some double sided tape to the back to hold down while cutting



Measured the width and then weighted down the top board as straight edge to make the cut


Hadn't noticed I had cut my original test wrap piece "wrong" (both ends taper same way)


Cut the new strips "correctly" (matching original wrap I took off) but did not realize I was making them different than the "test wrap"



Got two clean new pieces cut, realized at last minute they would need to be mirror images of each other (since one is left and one right) and had to cut one more. Added double sided tape to the entire back of both pieces and then did wrap same way I did in test at beginning of thread.
Had two issues with this 2nd try. First issue: these new pieces of leather came up short the first time I tried to wrap them, assuming they had less stretch in than 1st piece? Re-wrapped and made sure to keep overlaps small and it went fine. Second issue: new pieces (which matched original shape) did not wrap as cleanly as the "wrong" shape I used in the test wrap, not enough that I will re-do, but live and learn.

I finished with some orange thread in the same way I showed in test. I put the thread through the tip of leather from the other direction so the knot was on the bottom. I cut the very sharp tip so the thread had chance to hold the end down and then wrapped around secruing the tip with about 4 feet of orange thread. I tied the thread on the bottom of the grip at various stages throughout the wrap and then multiple knots at the end.



I am generally happy with the results . . . pics in next post

SoCaled 

finished pics