Drilling holes for internal brake cable mod
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Drilling holes for internal brake cable mod
I bought an used 2014 Ridley aluminum frame road bike to use as my indoor trainer bike, it has external rear brake cable and internal shift cables, none of these mean much to me until I have to mount the bike at the repair stand, since the bike frame is a bit bigger than I normally ride, I end up having to clamp the bike at the top tube because there is not enough seat post left.
The rear brake cable keeps getting pulled enough that it will cause the brake to drag or even lock up, I want to drill 2 holes in the top tube so I can run a new cable housing from brake lever to brake caliper, can't find much info online so I thought this may be a good source
I already contact Ridley bikes twice and my first respond was " we don't recommend drilling into carbon fiber frame " I submitted the same question again and this time I didn't get any reply
Any input will be greatly appreciated, it looks like a simply job but I worry it may compromise the structure integrity of the frame by drilling holes into the top tube
The rear brake cable keeps getting pulled enough that it will cause the brake to drag or even lock up, I want to drill 2 holes in the top tube so I can run a new cable housing from brake lever to brake caliper, can't find much info online so I thought this may be a good source
I already contact Ridley bikes twice and my first respond was " we don't recommend drilling into carbon fiber frame " I submitted the same question again and this time I didn't get any reply
Any input will be greatly appreciated, it looks like a simply job but I worry it may compromise the structure integrity of the frame by drilling holes into the top tube
Last edited by scorpiox; 02-20-18 at 12:05 AM. Reason: misspelled
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: location location
Posts: 3,035
Bikes: MBK Super Mirage 1991, CAAD10, Yuba Mundo Lux, and a Cannondale Criterium Single Speed
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 344 Post(s)
Liked 297 Times
in
207 Posts
If the cabling is only a problem when you put the bike up on the work stand, either a) adjust your seat height when using the work stand or b) get a different work stand, which will be a lot cheaper than a new frame.
#3
Zoom zoom zoom zoom bonk
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,624
Bikes: Giant Defy, Trek 1.7c, BMC GF02, Fuji Tahoe, Scott Sub 35, Kona Rove, Trek Verve+2
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 551 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
366 Posts
Indoor trainer bike?
Brakes?
Work stand?
I think a trip to the LBS is in order before installing drillium.
Brakes?
Work stand?
I think a trip to the LBS is in order before installing drillium.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 919
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 761 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
To things
Firstly, you can't ride the bike off the trainer if you do this. Your comprising the structural integrity of the frame. Secondly, you kill the resale value (Customer: 'What's that dot I see there' ... Reminds me of that famous Seinfeld episode about the sweater and the red dot).
I bought an used 2014 Ridley aluminum frame road bike to use as my indoor trainer bike, it has external rear brake cable and internal shift cables, none of these mean much to me until I have to mount the bike at the repair stand, since the bike frame is a bit bigger than I normally ride, I end up having to clamp the bike at the top tube because there is not enough seat post left.
The rear brake cable keeps getting pulled enough that it will cause the brake to drag or even lock up, I want to drill 2 holes in the top tube so I can run a new cable housing from brake lever to brake caliper, can't find much info online so I thought this may be a good source
I already contact Ridley bikes twice and my first respond was " we don't recommend drilling into carbon fiber frame " I submitted the same question again and this time I didn't get any reply
Any input will be greatly appreciated, it looks like a simply job but I worry it may compromise the structure integrity of the frame by drilling holes into the top tube
The rear brake cable keeps getting pulled enough that it will cause the brake to drag or even lock up, I want to drill 2 holes in the top tube so I can run a new cable housing from brake lever to brake caliper, can't find much info online so I thought this may be a good source
I already contact Ridley bikes twice and my first respond was " we don't recommend drilling into carbon fiber frame " I submitted the same question again and this time I didn't get any reply
Any input will be greatly appreciated, it looks like a simply job but I worry it may compromise the structure integrity of the frame by drilling holes into the top tube
#5
Bad example
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle and Reims
Posts: 3,056
Bikes: Peugeot: AO-8 1973, PA-10 1971, PR-10 1973, Sante 1988; Masi Gran Criterium 1975, Stevenson Tourer 1980, Stevenson Criterium 1981, Schwinn Paramount 1972, Rodriguez 2006, Gitane Federal ~1975, Holdsworth Pro, Follis 172 ~1973, Bianchi '62
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 823 Post(s)
Liked 202 Times
in
91 Posts
Scorpiox, there was a recent thread about Miyatas that had internal cabling, and cracked at the holes because the holes had no reinforcements.
The simplest answer IMO would be to get a quick-release seatpost clamp so you can extend the seatpost when you put it in the workstand. You can also get a small band to clamp around the seatpost at the edge of the seat tube, so you can re-insert the seat post at the same depth.
The simplest answer IMO would be to get a quick-release seatpost clamp so you can extend the seatpost when you put it in the workstand. You can also get a small band to clamp around the seatpost at the edge of the seat tube, so you can re-insert the seat post at the same depth.
#6
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Firstly, you can't ride the bike off the trainer if you do this. Your comprising the structural integrity of the frame. Secondly, you kill the resale value (Customer: 'What's that dot I see there' ... Reminds me of that famous Seinfeld episode about the sweater and the red dot).
#9
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#12
Burning Matches.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 9,714
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4077 Post(s)
Liked 1,002 Times
in
676 Posts
My vote is for marking the seat post, then moving it up as req'd in the workstand. How often do you intend to put your trainer bike in the workstand anyway?
__________________
ElJamoquio didn't hate the world, per se; he was just constantly disappointed by humanity.
#13
Master Sarcaster
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 527
Bikes: 2018 Allez Sprint, 2016 Trek Crockett Canti
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 190 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I would recommend AGAINST drilling an Aluminum frame even more than I would against drilling into carbon. Any hole in the wall of AL tubing is just asking to develop cracks and structural failure if not done properly. That's why you don't see many AL frames with internal cable routing, and when you do, it's on higher end frames and often with additional support welded/bonded in place.
If that frame will only ever see life on the trainer and will NEVER see road use again... fine, do it at your own risk and it probably will survive, but I would do it under the assumption that if you drill it the way that I think you're wanting to, it's a dead frame and should never be ridden on the road again.
If that frame will only ever see life on the trainer and will NEVER see road use again... fine, do it at your own risk and it probably will survive, but I would do it under the assumption that if you drill it the way that I think you're wanting to, it's a dead frame and should never be ridden on the road again.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
You know the disclaimers.
I prefer to drill carbon fibre way more than anything else.
Reason is many/most times it is made with some bladder and the wall thickness varies anyway and it there is lots of extra material built into it. Then, even broken the stuff is tough. An alloy post/part will snap. Steel with bend and CF will crack. Of course enough force and it will snap too, but materials are different and the tolerances are different.
An Extralite (brand) part will hardly ever be modified. It is already perfect. A CF bar I have no issues drilling, but I understand where the stress points are.
Anyway - your bike is on a trainer. Drill. If you do not know where it is safe to drill, don't. But I think you are fine. Alloy will have tighter tolerances and you do want to be careful.
For example - for a cable - I'd drill in the side toward the middle of the head tube. Not a lot is going on there. If the welds are huge, maybe a weld. If they are finely filed -not a weld. If in the TT...careful. A butted tube in the butt/thicker section farther from the weld would be preferred over the thin area. Since alloy is typically not butted, an inc from the weld is good.
You might feel this with the fork / seat post out.
I prefer to drill carbon fibre way more than anything else.
Reason is many/most times it is made with some bladder and the wall thickness varies anyway and it there is lots of extra material built into it. Then, even broken the stuff is tough. An alloy post/part will snap. Steel with bend and CF will crack. Of course enough force and it will snap too, but materials are different and the tolerances are different.
An Extralite (brand) part will hardly ever be modified. It is already perfect. A CF bar I have no issues drilling, but I understand where the stress points are.
Anyway - your bike is on a trainer. Drill. If you do not know where it is safe to drill, don't. But I think you are fine. Alloy will have tighter tolerances and you do want to be careful.
For example - for a cable - I'd drill in the side toward the middle of the head tube. Not a lot is going on there. If the welds are huge, maybe a weld. If they are finely filed -not a weld. If in the TT...careful. A butted tube in the butt/thicker section farther from the weld would be preferred over the thin area. Since alloy is typically not butted, an inc from the weld is good.
You might feel this with the fork / seat post out.
Last edited by Doge; 02-20-18 at 11:45 AM.
#15
Non omnino gravis
#17
Senior Member
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,007
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4369 Post(s)
Liked 1,546 Times
in
1,012 Posts
I don't know what work you'd need to do on a trainer bike that can't be done while it is clamped in the trainer.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
Sight unseen - I may be off. But drill through the head tube (as per last post). Go around the steer tube, and take it out right before the seat joint.
I assume you can't take it down the down tube under the BB and to the chain stays. Thought I'd mention.
Do you plan on the housing going in side the frame? Think about smaller holes and stops. There are also stops used for this (for bigger holes) so look for them.
I assume you can't take it down the down tube under the BB and to the chain stays. Thought I'd mention.
Do you plan on the housing going in side the frame? Think about smaller holes and stops. There are also stops used for this (for bigger holes) so look for them.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,007
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4369 Post(s)
Liked 1,546 Times
in
1,012 Posts
Sight unseen - I may be off. But drill through the head tube (as per last post). Go around the steer tube, and take it out right before the seat joint.
I assume you can't take it down the down tube under the BB and to the chain stays. Thought I'd mention.
Do you plan on the housing going in side the frame? Think about smaller holes and stops. There are also stops used for this (for bigger holes) so look for them.
I assume you can't take it down the down tube under the BB and to the chain stays. Thought I'd mention.
Do you plan on the housing going in side the frame? Think about smaller holes and stops. There are also stops used for this (for bigger holes) so look for them.
You have to route the housing through the frame, otherwise the brake wire would cut the frame or steerer over time.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,902
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
Mentioned: 129 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4802 Post(s)
Liked 3,922 Times
in
2,551 Posts
Scorpiox, there was a recent thread about Miyatas that had internal cabling, and cracked at the holes because the holes had no reinforcements.
The simplest answer IMO would be to get a quick-release seatpost clamp so you can extend the seatpost when you put it in the workstand. You can also get a small band to clamp around the seatpost at the edge of the seat tube, so you can re-insert the seat post at the same depth.
The simplest answer IMO would be to get a quick-release seatpost clamp so you can extend the seatpost when you put it in the workstand. You can also get a small band to clamp around the seatpost at the edge of the seat tube, so you can re-insert the seat post at the same depth.
Ben
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
A small hole and stop for cable only, or sleeve, not housing in the TT is my suggestion. In several of my frames I could do that. I do similar with Di2 cable, but that is not under tension.
Still, if I read correctly this is a stationary indoor training bike.
Why are brakes needed?
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,007
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4369 Post(s)
Liked 1,546 Times
in
1,012 Posts
How did you do that without having the bare cable touching the inside of the frame in spots? What kind of stop do you use for an angular exit from the side of the TT?
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern California, USA
Posts: 10,474
Bikes: 1979 Raleigh Team 753
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3374 Post(s)
Liked 371 Times
in
253 Posts
The exit, I explained has after market stops. I think you have seen them. I can look if needed.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,853
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1067 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 259 Times
in
153 Posts
I would drill the top tube in a similar place to where they usually are. Probably close to where the existing rear brake cable stops are. Then with a pin punch or even just the parallel shank of the drill lever the holes a bit so the housing can enter at the appropriate angle more easily. Then run a continuous brake housing from lever to frame. An advantage of this is that your sweat won't get into the brake cable and corrode it.
If you were worried about structural integrity you could fix the housing to the outside of the top tube by other means and not drill it.
If you were worried about structural integrity you could fix the housing to the outside of the top tube by other means and not drill it.