what is the best way to polish Shimano 1050 Cranks
08-04-17, 09:15 AM
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what is the best way to polish Shimano 1050 Cranks
I recently acquired a pair of 1987 Ironmen and the Cranks are not shiny. I realize they shouldn't look like Ultegra or Dura Ace but I would like them shinier than this. How have you polished your 1050 Cranks? (These are two different bikes)
08-04-17, 09:43 AM
#2
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It looks like some of the anodizing is gone which could make cleaning or polishing (to a shine) difficult.
Your best bet may be to just clean with a degreaser and maybe go over with aluminum polish.
There's always this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ng-thread.html
You could also consider having the anodizing removed, cleaning and polishing, and possibly re-anodizing.
Good luck. Great looking bikes, I love the colors, reminds me of the Kodak Portra colors.
Your best bet may be to just clean with a degreaser and maybe go over with aluminum polish.
There's always this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ng-thread.html
You could also consider having the anodizing removed, cleaning and polishing, and possibly re-anodizing.
Good luck. Great looking bikes, I love the colors, reminds me of the Kodak Portra colors.
08-04-17, 10:00 AM
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Soak in a lye solution to remove exiting anodizing.
Polish with your favorite compound. Wax.
Repeat polishing/waxing yearly.
BTW I like PB Blaster and a brass toothbrush for the rusted chrome chainring nuts/bolts.
Polish with your favorite compound. Wax.
Repeat polishing/waxing yearly.
BTW I like PB Blaster and a brass toothbrush for the rusted chrome chainring nuts/bolts.
Last edited by 16Victor; 08-05-17 at 02:40 PM.
08-04-17, 01:38 PM
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Soak in a lye solution to remove exiting anodizing.
Do this in short bursts, flushing with water ever few minutes. That lye will eat the anodizing and it will, if left in too long, eat the aluminum also. Then to polish...
Start with # 600 wet/dry paper, used wet and sand away. Then move to 1000 grit and sand away. Then to a finer and than to a finer grit. Soon, they will bounce light like a mirror. Or, just pick up one of these at a Yard Sale for five bucks, buy the cloth wheels and polishing sticks(three grades to choose from, I choose soft metal, followed by high gloss)...
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08-04-17, 03:43 PM
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I made a black stem shiny with oven cleaner and sanding/polishing but was hoping there was a magic trick to get the 105 Cranks looking good.
I guess some of the anodizing is gone, but not all of it, and that's why just polishing hasn't worked. I scrubbed a section with 0..0 Steel wool and it got real smooth but then polishing only gave it a sheen.
Thanks all.
I guess some of the anodizing is gone, but not all of it, and that's why just polishing hasn't worked. I scrubbed a section with 0..0 Steel wool and it got real smooth but then polishing only gave it a sheen.
Thanks all.
08-04-17, 04:39 PM
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Oxalic acid will also remove the anodizing. Dilute as directed. Takes a few days, but shouldn't hurt the aluminum.
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08-04-17, 06:09 PM
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The anodizing on these parts is aluminum oxide, which is harder than aluminum alloy. I don't think there's any way oxalic acid will attack aluminum oxide, but not bother aluminum alloy. If your component already has some anodizing removed, there won't be any way to control the process.
08-04-17, 08:16 PM
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Do this in short bursts, flushing with water ever few minutes. That lye will eat the anodizing and it will, if left in too long, eat the aluminum also. Then to polish...
Start with # 600 wet/dry paper, used wet and sand away. Then move to 1000 grit and sand away. Then to a finer and than to a finer grit. Soon, they will bounce light like a mirror. Or, just pick up one of these at a Yard Sale for five bucks, buy the cloth wheels and polishing sticks(three grades to choose from, I choose soft metal, followed by high gloss)...
Start with # 600 wet/dry paper, used wet and sand away. Then move to 1000 grit and sand away. Then to a finer and than to a finer grit. Soon, they will bounce light like a mirror. Or, just pick up one of these at a Yard Sale for five bucks, buy the cloth wheels and polishing sticks(three grades to choose from, I choose soft metal, followed by high gloss)...
08-06-17, 08:37 PM
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The anodizing on these parts is aluminum oxide, which is harder than aluminum alloy. I don't think there's any way oxalic acid will attack aluminum oxide, but not bother aluminum alloy. If your component already has some anodizing removed, there won't be any way to control the process.
0517171846.jpg
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Last edited by Hudson308; 08-07-17 at 06:27 AM.
08-07-17, 09:22 AM
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School starts again in a week. For now, you what I means.
The lye bath and sanding will be postponed. I played a little with 00 steel wool and then some #7 polishing compound and got a "good for now" shine.
The lye bath and sanding will be postponed. I played a little with 00 steel wool and then some #7 polishing compound and got a "good for now" shine.
Last edited by Classtime; 08-07-17 at 10:58 AM. Reason: Added picture.
08-08-17, 01:03 PM
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08-08-17, 07:01 PM
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My comment comes from recent experience with a set of Mavic anodized rims. Maybe the anodizing is a different material than his cranks. I was soaking them in OA to clean up some rusty eyelets, and forgot about them for a few days. The OA stripped the anodizing, but doesn't appear to have etched the surface of the rim.
Attachment 575066
Attachment 575066
08-08-17, 07:08 PM
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The anodizing dissolved only on the section that was submerged. I'll likely strip it all off now, so I can still salvage the MA40 rims.
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08-13-17, 01:08 PM
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08-13-17, 01:49 PM
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08-13-17, 05:52 PM
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08-13-17, 07:15 PM
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