Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#2780
Elitist
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Refer to the first post in this thread regarding a suggested order in which to buy chainrings and cogs: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html
You will not need a full kit on day 1 at the track. 48t, 49t, 15t, 16t will get you through your first couple of months and add a 50t and you could finish the entire season.
You will not need a full kit on day 1 at the track. 48t, 49t, 15t, 16t will get you through your first couple of months and add a 50t and you could finish the entire season.
#2781
Full Member
Refer to the first post in this thread regarding a suggested order in which to buy chainrings and cogs: https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...ack-racer.html
You will not need a full kit on day 1 at the track. 48t, 49t, 15t, 16t will get you through your first couple of months and add a 50t and you could finish the entire season.
You will not need a full kit on day 1 at the track. 48t, 49t, 15t, 16t will get you through your first couple of months and add a 50t and you could finish the entire season.
IIRC, gycho77 mentioned wanting to go to Georgia Tech, which means (s)he is a junior and subject to gear restrictions.
Track Gear Restrictions:
Ages 17-18: Unrestricted
Ages 15-16: 6.78 meters (22'3")(48x15)
Ages 13-14: 6.36 meters (20'10.5")(48x16)
Ages 10-12: 6.00 meters (19’8”)(48x17)
Your Racing Age is defined as your age on January 1st.
Also for a new racer starting fresh, I would recommend a single chainring (48t) and one cog (15t). Basically, the standard junior gear. After that I would get more cogs: 14t, 16t, and then maybe even a 13t to provide a broad range of gear ratios. Finally, additional chainrings to fill in the gaps, if needed. The alternative is to buy a track bag and then buy every chainring and cog combination possible to fill it up. I think my bag has close to a grand's worth of cogs and rings.
#2782
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Join Date: May 2015
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Thank you everyone.
Your advice helped me a lot.
I will try my best to get those chainrings and cog
Your advice helped me a lot.
I will try my best to get those chainrings and cog
Last edited by gycho77; 11-07-15 at 06:10 AM.
#2783
Senior Member
I would recommend at least a warm-up gear (48x16) on top of that single race/training gear. Your knees will thank you later.
#2785
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#2786
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Buy the cheap stuff (in regards to cogs/rings). They are something that doesn't get overly better with price, and makes a huge difference
#2787
Full Member
I can make it simple for you. Show up at Ttown next May for the Saturday races or the first Try the Track class with whatever chainring and cog that your bike has and I'll lend you other sizes to see what works for you. After that you can buy what you need.
#2791
Senior Member
#2793
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I want to get a part time job, but it is impossible. I don't have a SSN. So it's illegal. However, I'm trying to find a way to earn money legally. Also I have money for race fee
#2795
Senior Member
If riding USAC sanctioned events you will need a racing license (This year cost is $35 under 18 and younger, $70 age 19 and up) I do not now the requirements for racing in ATRA sanctioned events.
#2798
aka mattio
It depends on the wheel, but generally, a front four spoke is more aerodynamic than a traditionally-spoked wheel. More aerodynamic means that you don't have to work as hard to push the air out of the way. Which means that you go faster for a given level of effort.
#2799
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Thanks. I bought a Corima four spoke awhile back, but the hub has debonded and it's irreparable. I'm just wondering if it's worth my while doling out another lump of money when I've already got the Pistas.
#2800
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If you are losing by full seconds, the wheels won't buy you much.
All of the things mentioned on this list before a front wheel will make you faster than a front wheel.
https://www.bikeforums.net/track-cycl...l#post14849124