NTCThomasB

I just got a new Canyon Endurace CF 8.0 Aero which comes with Di2. When I put it on my KICKR '17 the gears don't mesh well on the cassette. Shifting is terrible, while it's seamless on the bike. I had assumed that as long as both the bike and the trainer both have the same number of gears they would work seamlessly. The bike has an 11-34 and the KICKR is much smaller, maybe 11-25. On my old bike, I might have been able to fix the situation with the barrel adjuster but this is my first experience with Di2 and I'm not sure what the best approach would be. Two ideas I have are to buy a cassette that matches my bike and put that on the KICKR and the other idea is to tweak the settings in the E-Tube app to account for the different gear ratios. I'd only want to do that if the app supports profiles so I could switch from indoor to outdoor quickly.

Would either of those options work? Do they make sense? Is there a barrel adjustment equivalent I could employ when on the trainer? Any other ideas?

(I'm less than two years into road biking and don't know a ton about mechanics so it's possible there's something else at play here. I won't be offended if you ask me questions as if I'm a kid.

I had to strip out the link to the bike spec - I'm new here and not allowed to post links yet.

TimothyH

Di2 needs to be adjusted in the same way the barrel adjuster did for your old bike.

Ideally you would want to set B screw, high and low and then adjust indexing. B, high and low might not be needed however.

The same would be true if you changed wheels rather than swapped between wheel and trainer. Its no different.

Look up how to put Di2 into adjustment mode and set properly. The best place for this information is going to be the dealer manual (DM) for your particular system at https://si.shimano.com.

Knowing how to do this has value apart from setting the bike up for a trainer. You should know how to do it in the field just in case.


-Tim-

Sy Reene

IOW, I think the best recommendation is to get the same cassette for the Kickr as you have on your bike. With the 11-25 you must have a lot of extra chain I imagine as well.

zacster

A few things going on here. First, is your Kickr setup leaving the smallest cog in the same exact place as the wheel? That is critical. Second, is the spacing on the two cassettes the same? Are they both 11sp or 10sp or whatever? They have to be exactly the same. Campy vs. Shimano may not work although 11sp is very close.

If the first cog on your Kickr needs to be moved, check the spacer behind the cassette close to the wheel. There is a 1mm and a 1.8 that come with the trainer. Make sure you have the right one.

The number of teeth shouldn't matter as much as long as the derailleur can wrap the chain. It is the spacing that is critical.

I have the Kickr Core and the key thing is having that first cog in just the right spot. I went so far as to modify a Shimano cassette to have Campy spacing and used the "wrong" spacer at the rear except that it made it work. Everything else follows from there. You do not need to adjust your DI2 settings or your screws on traditional derailleurs. Adjust your trainer's cassette so that it works with the settings that are correct for the wheel otherwise you can't just pull the bike off the trainer, put on the wheel and go like I did today. You'll be futzing around with it constantly.

The answer is to MAKE THE TRAINER WORK with the setup you have!!! DO NOT ADJUST your derailleur!!!

NTCThomasB

Thanks for your replies. This bit from zacster is exactly what I'm after, seamless transition from trainer to road and back. Except for a month or two of long summer nights I'll be on the trainer after work and on longer road rides on the weekend.

I'll have a look at my wheel-on cassette vs my trainer and see if I can dial in the spacing. I'll report back.

zacster

If needed, .2mil hard plastic sheets can be cut into spacers to get fine tuned. You'll need a sharp exacto knife and it is a PITA to do but worth it.

Racing Dan

Its hard to understand DI2 doesnt have some sort of "wheel memory" that would allow you to choose the wheel from the computer and automatically apply the micro adjustment and correct cassette setting.

Marcus_Ti

Problem with implementing such a thing....it becomes no faster than just re-indexing the system. And probably much slower, than just re-indexing. Especially for someone comfortable in indexing.

Racing Dan

Cant imagine why you would think that.

TimothyH

High, low and B screws still need to be set.


-Tim-

Racing Dan

And ppl do that when they put the bike on a trainer? Not to my knowledge. If you insist this is a necessity, then you cant change the rear wheel or put the bike on the trainer without it being a huge faff.

zacster

If I had to adjust the derailleur every time I wanted to use the trainer, it would be a good enough reason to just sit on the couch and watch TV instead.

srode1

Adusting the rear DR is easy peasy, which I would rather do than try to figure out shimming to make it right for the trainer and a road wheel. Mine doesn't shift as well on the trainer but I's tollerable. For people that aren't good making that adjustment or not willing to live with it, just get another bike for the trainer. N+1 always applies.

zacster

Really?? You want to do this every time you switch?? You go right ahead, and I'll make sure everything is compatible from the get-go. It is easier to make compatible than to adjust the gears, and you only have to make it compatible once. I haven't touched the shifting since October when the trainer came and I've switched it at least 50 times now.

srode1

You switch a lot more often that I do, I would have a bike I left on the trainer most of the time during trainer season rather than switching all the time (which I do).

zacster

That's why one makes them compatible. Default positions for both, wheel pulled all the way into the dropout or the frame pushed all the way down on the trainer, leaves everything perfectly aligned. No thinking or tinkering involved. If you have truly compatible cassettes, there is absolutely no reason at all that they should need any adjustment right out of the box. There is a spec for every system's spacing. If you don't have truly compatible cassettes, like I have, you make them compatible. I have a Campy 10 system on the bike, and while this system is becoming obsolete it still works very well. My trainer only took Shimano cassettes. I built a Shimano cassette to match the Campy standard spacing, and made sure the alignment on the freehub matched the Campy standard as well, and voila! No issues at all.