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my 'new' bike.

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Old 12-27-08, 04:57 PM
  #1  
91MF
i'll probably break it
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my 'new' bike.

probably didnt need to make a new thread about this but whatever. i just bought this cannondale. i think its a 1995 model. tell me about it.







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Old 12-27-08, 05:00 PM
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All I know is that the name is properly pronounced "Cah-non-da-lay" and they are properly ridden with pinkies extended.
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Old 12-27-08, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DraftTheeNot
All I know is that the name is properly pronounced "Cah-non-da-lay" and they are properly ridden with pinkies extended.
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Old 12-27-08, 05:54 PM
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those used to have a tendency to crack at the dropouts
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Old 12-27-08, 06:03 PM
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Great looking bike! But...I say lose the plastic pie plate.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bassplayinbiker
those used to have a tendency to crack at the dropouts
i've got a friend with a cannondale track with the same[similar] style and he treats that thing like crap and its fine. any proof? show me.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by icyclist
Great looking bike! But...I say lose the plastic pie plate.
just break it off?
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Old 12-27-08, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 91MF
just break it off?
you could do that, or cut it, or learn how to properly remove a cassette so that you can just take it off...
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Old 12-27-08, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 91MF
i've got a friend with a cannondale track with the same[similar] style and he treats that thing like crap and its fine. any proof? show me.
A track bike's fork ends are different from those cantilever dropouts. And he didn't say that every Cannondale with those dropouts cracks he said that they have a reputation for cracking.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:22 PM
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is that downtube made of recycled pbr cans?

Peter
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Old 12-27-08, 06:26 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by CrimsonKarter21
A track bike's fork ends are different from those cantilever dropouts. And he didn't say that every Cannondale with those dropouts cracks he said that they have a reputation for cracking.
im aware that a track bike and these are different, hence my statement 'with the same[similar] style'
and i know he didnt say every one, thats why i asked if there was any online documentation/proof.

thanks.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:27 PM
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91MF
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Originally Posted by pdedes
is that downtube made of recycled pbr cans?

Peter
wait, are you making fun of my deep Vs?
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Old 12-27-08, 06:28 PM
  #13  
91MF
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Originally Posted by umd
you could do that, or cut it, or learn how to properly remove a cassette so that you can just take it off...
yea, i would prob need tools for that right? i ride a fixed gear with like 4 allens and some 15mm nuts holding the whole bike together. cassette remove is like fancy tool status no?
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Old 12-27-08, 06:30 PM
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I'd swap the fork to carbon.

I don't think Al forks are all that great from what I've heard. No personal experience to gauge it by though, thankfully.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 91MF
yea, i would prob need tools for that right? i ride a fixed gear with like 4 allens and some 15mm nuts holding the whole bike together. cassette remove is like fancy tool status no?
Looks like you need a few more tools then.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:33 PM
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Nice. My friend rode that on the first Cannondale team around '85/'86 or so but it was all Campy NR and SR on it. I rode a lower end model with Shimano on club races. I had a few friends who had one but for some reason, and I wasn't a scientist, they all had the same feel as I was having and that was "it felt like it had a flat all the time" These are guys who rode a lot of steel Italian bikes at the time. The selling point of those Cannondales during the mid 80's was that it wasn't as "harsh" as those Italian steel bikes. So the aluminun tubing took out a lot of the shock. Well, as my engineer friend said "the road shock absorbtion goes both ways, from the road and from your energy". "That's probably why you fell like its a flat". Kinda made sense back then. It wasn't such a great handler so I rode my Somec on stuff like crits but the thing was pretty good for long road races.
To make you feel better, none of my friends broke the dropout. These guys were CAt 1/2.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:37 PM
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I pulled those same rims off an '89 Miyata Alumicross I got for free, 32h laced to Sansin sealed cartridge hubs. I have no idea what kind of abuse they took before I got them, but I raced (fixed gear) cross hard on them for about 6 races and now they're on my townie/beater. Decently strong rims. The (anodized, non-machined) sidewalls have really poor braking performance, really grabby/slippery/inconsistant.
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Old 12-27-08, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FKMTB07
I pulled those same rims off an '89 Miyata Alumicross I got for free, 32h laced to Sansin sealed cartridge hubs. I have no idea what kind of abuse they took before I got them, but I raced (fixed gear) cross hard on them for about 6 races and now they're on my townie/beater. Decently strong rims. The (anodized, non-machined) sidewalls have really poor braking performance, really grabby/slippery/inconsistant.
Wolber's were the choice for sew up rims on Paris-Roubaix back in the day. Not that light but takes a beating and keeps going.
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Old 12-27-08, 07:28 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 91MF
i've got a friend with a cannondale track with the same[similar] style and he treats that thing like crap and its fine. any proof? show me.
I have the same bike but circa 1990. I would say that you have a 1991 or 2, particularly given the era of Look pedals. It is in very good condition for that age of bike.

As for the comments bout frame cracking, perhaps on some but this is not a common problem that I have ever heard of.

I took yee old Cannondale out for a ride yesterday. It sits in the bike holder as my Merlin is THE ride. I was instantly reminded of how well the Cannondale climbs and sprints and also reminded of how it feels on the harsh stuff. Ouch! This is a great bike for smooth roads.
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Old 12-27-08, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FKMTB07
I pulled those same rims off an '89 Miyata Alumicross I got for free, 32h laced to Sansin sealed cartridge hubs. I have no idea what kind of abuse they took before I got them, but I raced (fixed gear) cross hard on them for about 6 races and now they're on my townie/beater. Decently strong rims. The (anodized, non-machined) sidewalls have really poor braking performance, really grabby/slippery/inconsistant.
I ride the same rims now laced to 105 hubs (32 hole). Heavy, but durable. They've taken plenty of rough hits and never complain.

and I agree on the braking...
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Old 12-27-08, 08:21 PM
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Have to say, that's a pretty "loud" looking bike for something old. Wouldn't look out-of-place today.
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Old 12-27-08, 09:41 PM
  #22  
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thanks folks, some good responses here. the guy i bought the bike from had the bike for 12 years since his boss gave it to him. he thought it was new at that time so i assumed it would be a 95...
yea the wheels are kinda heavy but they 'feel' like they are bombproof. i dont have shoes for those pedals, would i be better off buying different pedals and shoes or finding a pair of shoes that works with the looks? i have never had anything but clips and straps before...
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Old 12-27-08, 09:53 PM
  #23  
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I have the mountain bike version of that frame(converted to single speed). It's a very stiff ride.

It's been taking a pretty good thrashing for almost 20 yrs and no problems.
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Old 12-27-08, 09:56 PM
  #24  
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I'd think about a new seat. IMO worth the cost.
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Old 12-28-08, 12:52 AM
  #25  
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The 105SC components on that frame are very, very nice. The bike is in fantastic condition! How much was it?
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