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Old 11-20-10, 06:43 AM
  #1  
hybridbkrdr
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bunch of questions

Are 1mm hub spacers available for hubs or was someone talking about just adding washers to his hub to make it 132mm instead of 130mm for his Nashbar frame with 132.5mm dropouts?

Will an 8 speed chain be OK for a Shimano Deore LX 9 speed rear derailleur?

Should I be fitted to my frame and have the steering tube cut or should I test various stem heights before having it cut?

What is the correct size of the bolts used for bottle cages and fenders so I know which ones to order?

Are there any brackets available that you can use to hook up a pump to the bottle cage holes under a Nashbar touring frame?

Are there any holes in rim tape for the valve or do you have to cut one yourself?
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Old 11-20-10, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by hybridbkrdr
Are 1mm hub spacers available for hubs or was someone talking about just adding washers to his hub to make it 132mm instead of 130mm for his Nashbar frame with 132.5mm dropouts?

Spacers are available form any good LBS.

Will an 8 speed chain be OK for a Shimano Deore LX 9 speed rear derailleur?

The spacing on an 8 speed chain is wider than on a 9 speed. If you have a 9 speed cassette you need a 9 peed chain.

Should I be fitted to my frame and have the steering tube cut or should I test various stem heights before having it cut?
A good fitting will take all of these items into consideration. Look for a fitter in your area.

What is the correct size of the bolts used for bottle cages and fenders so I know which ones to order?
M4 or M5

Are there any brackets available that you can use to hook up a pump to the bottle cage holes under a Nashbar touring frame?
Most frame fit pumps come with the bracket. The brackets are item spefic.

Are there any holes in rim tape for the valve or do you have to cut one yourself?
Yes there is a hole in rim tape for the valve, that is unless you have bulk tape.
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Old 11-20-10, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by hybridbkrdr
Are 1mm hub spacers available for hubs or was someone talking about just adding washers to his hub to make it 132mm instead of 130mm for his Nashbar frame with 132.5mm dropouts?

Will an 8 speed chain be OK for a Shimano Deore LX 9 speed rear derailleur?

Should I be fitted to my frame and have the steering tube cut or should I test various stem heights before having it cut?

What is the correct size of the bolts used for bottle cages and fenders so I know which ones to order?

Are there any brackets available that you can use to hook up a pump to the bottle cage holes under a Nashbar touring frame?

Are there any holes in rim tape for the valve or do you have to cut one yourself?
1. Why even bother? It's only 1 mm on each side. The idea behind 132.5 dropouts is so the frame will fit either 130 mm or 135 mm hubs.

2. A 9-speed rear derailleur will work fine with an 8-speed chain.

3. I'd want to try it out first. All of that scientific fitting data is based on averages. Are you average? If you decide that's what you want you can always cut it later but once it's cut you can't add back.

4. I've never had to buy water bottle screws separately. They usually come with new water bottle cages, frame pumps, luggage racks, etc. Shops and most guys who mess with bikes tend to accumulate a drawer full of the things.

5. Most frame pumps today come with a bracket that allows it to be mounted alongside a water bottle cage.

6. Some have holes and some don't.
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Old 11-20-10, 09:28 AM
  #4  
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4. All water bottle cage and most fender and rack bolts are M5x0.8 mm. The length will vary depending on your particular bike. Most hardware stores and home centers stock metric bolts these days and M5x0.8 is very common so you should be able to find them locally.

5. As RG noted, an under-bottle cage bracket comes with most small frame pumps

6. Velox rim tape comes with a pre-punched hole for a presta valve stem. Velox is cloth and adhesive backed and, IMHO, is by far the best brand and type available.
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Old 11-20-10, 10:34 AM
  #5  
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match the chain to the cassette cog count, deraileurs just shove it back and forth.
as directed by the detents in the lever so that needs to be compatable with the cog count.
8 to 8, 9 to 9
threadless steerers with spacers above and below the stem work fine,
I would ride around quite a while first . since cut off steerer won't grow back.
buy a locking spacer [QBP] put it on the bottom of the spacer stack,
It will let the adjustment be, while shuffling spacer and stem choices above it.

sticky back rim tape Velox and Pedro's. can be cut and stuck down
on either side of the hole in the rim, there is a hole,
presta sized, but you can cut it off, for narrow tape, big Schrader valve,
and just make the tape gap where the stem is, because it's sticky

Last edited by fietsbob; 11-20-10 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 11-20-10, 08:19 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
1. Why even bother? It's only 1 mm on each side. The idea behind 132.5 dropouts is so the frame will fit either 130 mm or 135 mm hubs.
Assuming it's a dished wheel, anytime the frame has more OLD than required, I see as an opportunity to reduce dish.
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Old 11-20-10, 09:06 PM
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5. The bracket that came with my Topeak Mini Morph pump screws onto the water bottle mounts instead of the water bottle cage.
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Old 11-20-10, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by flanso
5. The bracket that came with my Topeak Mini Morph pump screws onto the water bottle mounts instead of the water bottle cage.
Yes, some pump brackets do replace the cage rather than double up with it. Most share the space with a bottle cage.
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Old 11-21-10, 09:36 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
1. Why even bother? It's only 1 mm on each side. The idea behind 132.5 dropouts is so the frame will fit either 130 mm or 135 mm hubs.

5. Most frame pumps today come with a bracket that allows it to be mounted alongside a water bottle cage.
The point of using a 1mm spacer would be to reduce metal fatigue over the long run. I mean if I road hub is 130mm and the dropout is 132.5mm, then it means the frame would be "squeezed" by 2.5mm. Putting a 1mm spacer on each side would reduce that to 0.5mm. I was wondering whether a hardware store washer would do the trick if I can't find a specific 1mm hub spacer.
The point about the mounting bracket is I was wondering if you could get one that mounts the pump right underneath the bottom tube instead of on the side. I thought my legs would be hitting the pump.

Originally Posted by HillRider
4. All water bottle cage and most fender and rack bolts are M5x0.8 mm. The length will vary depending on your particular bike. Most hardware stores and home centers stock metric bolts these days and M5x0.8 is very common so you should be able to find them locally.

6. Velox rim tape comes with a pre-punched hole for a presta valve stem. Velox is cloth and adhesive backed and, IMHO, is by far the best brand and type available.
OK, so these bolts would be OK then? https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=432153
I wanted to get a wheel with Weinmann AS23X rims which have an inside width of 16.5mm, an outside width of 22.5mm and is 13.7mm in height if you will (single wall). I wanted to know if it was worth it to get this Velox 700 x 16mm rim strip instead of rim tape: https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=432533
 
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Old 11-21-10, 11:12 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by hybridbkrdr
The point of using a 1mm spacer would be to reduce metal fatigue over the long run. I mean if I road hub is 130mm and the dropout is 132.5mm, then it means the frame would be "squeezed" by 2.5mm. Putting a 1mm spacer on each side would reduce that to 0.5mm. I was wondering whether a hardware store washer would do the trick if I can't find a specific 1mm hub spacer.
You are wasting your time. Metal won't "fatigue" from that amount of compression. Frame manufacturers make 132.5 mm dropout spacing to allow either 130 or 135 mm hubs to fit and neither width causes any problems over decades and decades of use. The frame will outlive you. In the past 128 mm dropouts were made to allow 126 or 130 mm hubs to be used interchangably and no problems occured with them either.
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Old 11-21-10, 11:23 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hybridbkrdr
OK, so these bolts would be OK then? https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=432153
[FONT=Arial][SIZE=2][FONT=Arial][SIZE=2]I wanted to get a wheel with Weinmann AS23X rims which have an inside width of 16.5mm, an outside width of 22.5mm and is 13.7mm in height if you will (single wall). I wanted to know if it was worth it to get this Velox 700 x 16mm rim strip instead of rim tape: https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=432533
Those bolts will be fine if you need them.

Without looking at your rim I can't say for sure about the rim strip. I suspect, however, it's not the right one. If your rims have a couple of "bumps" on the side with a narrow channel down the center 11 mm Velox tape is what you need.
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Old 11-21-10, 03:57 PM
  #12  
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OK, then these 7/16" should be 11mm right? https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=5642
So this Park Tool BBT-32 will be OK for the Shimano BB-UN54 right? https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=434599
And does anyone know if this cassette tool will work with the Shimano HG-50 cassette? https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=3216
If I wanted to use a Shimano Sora crankset with a 52T chainring in the front and buy a 11-32T cassette with a Shimano Deore LX rear derailleur, will the Shimano HG70 chain be long enough for that? https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=6159
Would I be safer to go with 11-30T than 11-32T instead?
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Old 11-23-10, 03:05 PM
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OK, on with more paranoid questions no one is going to answer. lol
Is Phil Wood grease the grease I should use to assemble the bicycle?
Will this spoke protector work well with a 36 spoke hub for a Shimano HG50 11-32T cassette?
https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=419815
Should I use a cable tool to cut cable housing or are tin snips good enough?
Do dust covers exist for bottom brackets?
Will Jesus Christ come back to Earth? (Just kidding to see if anyone reads this.)
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Old 11-23-10, 03:29 PM
  #14  
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Bike parts are predominantly Metric fasteners ..

do you have small 20'' wheels ? 52/11 is a huge gear with a 26~28'' wheel ,
unneeded but for finish line sprints at 40 mph.

No you need a cutter for cables tin snips will spread out all the strands of a cable
and then it wont fit in the housing

Phil does package a tidy squeeze tube of grease,
I found Boat trailer wheel bearing grease, in a tub more amount for less .

Re spoke protector, why not?

He may have already , but seeing humans still find peace is not as profitable as war ,
have gotten worse, and shrugged and left again.
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Old 11-23-10, 11:54 PM
  #15  
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I use a cable cutter to cut cables, less chance of fraying later. I use a dremal cutting wheel for the housing, it make a nicer cut.

there are plenty of greases that you can use, I use Phil Wood.

Which bottom brackets? my OLD campy and dura ace bottom brackets had optional silicon covers that protected the bearings from water, these were for bottom bracket shells that had cut outs. So do you need something like that, probably not.
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Old 11-24-10, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclist2000
I use a cable cutter to cut cables, less chance of fraying later. I use a dremal cutting wheel for the housing, it make a nicer cut..

Which bottom brackets?
It's the Shimano BBUN-54.

Well, I was kind of wondering what the minimums were for tools but I'll have to look around to see what I need for the cassette. I thought you only needed the cassette tool but I read there are chain whips as well. I was just thinking about ways to minimize the cost partly because I read a horror story of someone who was quoted $130 for a bike repair and was charged $220. My build is already going to surpass $1000 and I thought it was only going to be $700 when I started.
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