Best "Refresh" or Upgrade for your Bike?
#1
Drip, Drip.
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Best "Refresh" or Upgrade for your Bike?
I'll start.
Original chain was very stretched out and worn out. Mix and match of several different (9 speed) chain types. Didn't feel too great. Friend replaced chain with an 8 speed. Was better, but never felt right. Ended up putting on a KMC 9 speed chain the other day; what a difference. the drivetrain feels brand new. Smooth, quiet, significantly better power transfer, much better shifting. It even goes around corners faster and smoother while pedaling. Very profound improvement.
Go!
Original chain was very stretched out and worn out. Mix and match of several different (9 speed) chain types. Didn't feel too great. Friend replaced chain with an 8 speed. Was better, but never felt right. Ended up putting on a KMC 9 speed chain the other day; what a difference. the drivetrain feels brand new. Smooth, quiet, significantly better power transfer, much better shifting. It even goes around corners faster and smoother while pedaling. Very profound improvement.
Go!
#2
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Is it an upgrade when you put on the correct part? Not surprised it works better than before.
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#3
Clark W. Griswold
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The best way to improve a bike is with high quality cables, housing and brake pads and good stiff brake shoes. It is cheaper than say a new caliper or new levers or what have you but can make a world of performance difference. Of course as well replacing any worn items will be helpful so in your case new chain and cassette in the proper number will greatly improve shifting.
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Well-built wheels
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I could be contrary and suggest conversion to SS. 😊
But seriously, tires.
Putting fast rolling tires (Compass, now RH, RTP) on my 26er MTB was quite a revelation. It meant that I could ride big comfy tires on crushed stone trails and gravel and only concede an average of about 1/2mph (or less) to the lighter Schwinn running 700x32.
Not sure how many wanna go there, but perhaps in second place I’d put riding with Albatross-style touring bars. Maybe affected by riding SS since I spend so much time standing up on climbs and descents. But it is a surprisingly effective cockpit for a lot of riding, assuming you wrap and use the entire bar. No low crouch, but a lot of different sitting and standing postures with a bar that extends about 9 inches front to back and has a mildly curving forward section that can change height, width and angle for hand location. Worth considering if you ride straight bars and your hands hurt or if you have drops that never get touched.
Otto
But seriously, tires.
Putting fast rolling tires (Compass, now RH, RTP) on my 26er MTB was quite a revelation. It meant that I could ride big comfy tires on crushed stone trails and gravel and only concede an average of about 1/2mph (or less) to the lighter Schwinn running 700x32.
Not sure how many wanna go there, but perhaps in second place I’d put riding with Albatross-style touring bars. Maybe affected by riding SS since I spend so much time standing up on climbs and descents. But it is a surprisingly effective cockpit for a lot of riding, assuming you wrap and use the entire bar. No low crouch, but a lot of different sitting and standing postures with a bar that extends about 9 inches front to back and has a mildly curving forward section that can change height, width and angle for hand location. Worth considering if you ride straight bars and your hands hurt or if you have drops that never get touched.
Otto
Last edited by ofajen; 10-12-20 at 12:48 PM.
#7
Senior Member
+1 for tires.
Recently replaced stock Bontrager R2 Hardcase Light with Continental GP 5000. Smoother ride, better handling - nice!
Recently replaced stock Bontrager R2 Hardcase Light with Continental GP 5000. Smoother ride, better handling - nice!
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#8
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I recently refreshed the Battaglin MAX I built up in 2007 from an early 90s frame. New bar with shorter reach and drop (not getting any younger nor more flexible), new 12-30 cassette and medium cage rear derailleur (still not getting any younger), new chain, touched up all the chipped paint, new old Look pedals, new cables and housing, new tires, and of course new white bar tape. Had my LBS align the rear hanger. Took it out on Friday and I'm in love again! Scored numerous PRs on segments I've ridden over 100 times. Totally worth the time and expense.
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#10
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Another vote for tires and also an appropriate seat for your butt/riding style.
I rode my old seat which didn't agree with my rear end for far too long. Getting a good, correct size seat made the subsequent rides feel like an entirely different bike!
I rode my old seat which didn't agree with my rear end for far too long. Getting a good, correct size seat made the subsequent rides feel like an entirely different bike!
#11
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Ignoring "as it should be" repairs of broken things, or non-functional things:
-saddle: it probably came with the bike because it was the most generic and affordable shape for that bike the company could stick on there. Get one that your bum likes.
-bar tape: same as for saddle.....usually it is something fairly generic, not colorful or matchy, maybe not most comfort or features. Customize a touch (or a lot). Get more comfy.
-tires: new or old bike....if you've been on slow/tired/puncture prone tires.......get the good stuff......better ride, maybe faster too
I consider that the "refresh" stuff. Wheels? Meh. That's "upgrade".
I'm getting some bar tape today. I have cable housing and cables sitting ready for the other bike.
This is a bit silly..........but I replaced the plain metal colored brake "noodles" on my road race bike with black ones. Dunno. I needed them when I ran new cables anyway and it was the same price. Why not.
-saddle: it probably came with the bike because it was the most generic and affordable shape for that bike the company could stick on there. Get one that your bum likes.
-bar tape: same as for saddle.....usually it is something fairly generic, not colorful or matchy, maybe not most comfort or features. Customize a touch (or a lot). Get more comfy.
-tires: new or old bike....if you've been on slow/tired/puncture prone tires.......get the good stuff......better ride, maybe faster too
I consider that the "refresh" stuff. Wheels? Meh. That's "upgrade".
I'm getting some bar tape today. I have cable housing and cables sitting ready for the other bike.
This is a bit silly..........but I replaced the plain metal colored brake "noodles" on my road race bike with black ones. Dunno. I needed them when I ran new cables anyway and it was the same price. Why not.
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#12
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Bar tape. There's no cheaper way to make your bike look 23.8% better.
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I second veganbike's cable recommendation. Housing is about two dollars a foot and inner cables are four bucks each, so for less than $30, you get dramatically better shifting and braking. Invest in a good pair of housing cutters, and it will pay for itself.
And replace your chain a couple of times a year. I don't even check mine for wear; it's just a scheduled maintenance item.
And replace your chain a couple of times a year. I don't even check mine for wear; it's just a scheduled maintenance item.
Last edited by Rolla; 10-12-20 at 11:07 PM.
#14
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The “easy money” is on tires and brake pads. Both are easy to change, and you definitely notice.
Grips/Tape and saddle, too, although good saddles are not always inexpensive, and sometimes it takes a few tries to find the right one.
Changing the handlebars; wider, more sweep, flares, etc. can also make a huge difference, but it’s a bit more of an involved project.
Grips/Tape and saddle, too, although good saddles are not always inexpensive, and sometimes it takes a few tries to find the right one.
Changing the handlebars; wider, more sweep, flares, etc. can also make a huge difference, but it’s a bit more of an involved project.
#15
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Love a new chain.
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Since my bikes are older, and 3 of the 4 were frame up builds, and have been upgraded over the years there are a number of choices.
Probably the best was an overall drivetrain change in going from a double crankset to a triple on my road bike and installing mtb derailleurs with a wider range freewheel.
It basically gave me the same as the double and added a climbing inner ring. I have since swapped out the wheelset with a cassette, but the foundation was already there.
John
Probably the best was an overall drivetrain change in going from a double crankset to a triple on my road bike and installing mtb derailleurs with a wider range freewheel.
It basically gave me the same as the double and added a climbing inner ring. I have since swapped out the wheelset with a cassette, but the foundation was already there.
John
#17
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Personally I like going into my parts bin from time to time and randomly change parts on my bikes. Gives me quality time wrenching and lets me experience something new.
I need to start painting bikes next. Never been a big advocate of cosmetics, always focused more on how well things function. Keep thinking I should do a show build.
I need to start painting bikes next. Never been a big advocate of cosmetics, always focused more on how well things function. Keep thinking I should do a show build.
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#18
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I second veganbike's cable recommendation. Housing is about two dollars a foot and inner cables are four bucks each, so for less than $30, you get dramatically better shifting and braking. Invest in a good pair of housing cutters, and it will pay for itself.
And replace your chain a couple of times a year. I don't even check mine for wear; it's just a scheduled maintenance item.
And replace your chain a couple of times a year. I don't even check mine for wear; it's just a scheduled maintenance item.
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#19
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The best upgrade that you can make for your bike is to give it to a stronger rider. The bike will experience immediate results.
#20
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Then the other biggest change for me (but much harder) was losing 35 pounds of road-hugging weight by diet and riding.
#22
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^^I think they are investigatingMore reports may speed things up.
#23
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Koolstops, leather tape/grips/saddles, supple tires
#24
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Tires make the biggest difference on my bikes, in speed, handling and comfort. Usually the first thing I change on any new-to-me bike.
Tubes also. Latex tubes are more comfy on rough chipseal. Dunno if they're faster, I'm not fast.
Bar wrap. As I get older I need thicker, cushy bar wrap. Sometimes I'll double wrap, with an old inner tube as the base wrap, and a better looking "cork" or other cushioned wrap over the inner tube.
Saddle. I have a box of saddles that seemed comfortable 25 lbs ago, but after losing weight I switched to narrower, less padded saddles. Subject to change at whim and gain/loss of weight.
Can't say I've noticed any differences in chains, assuming they're the correct size and not worn out. I've dabbled with all kinds of lubes too and didn't notice any difference in speed. So I go for whatever makes the least mess.
Tubes also. Latex tubes are more comfy on rough chipseal. Dunno if they're faster, I'm not fast.
Bar wrap. As I get older I need thicker, cushy bar wrap. Sometimes I'll double wrap, with an old inner tube as the base wrap, and a better looking "cork" or other cushioned wrap over the inner tube.
Saddle. I have a box of saddles that seemed comfortable 25 lbs ago, but after losing weight I switched to narrower, less padded saddles. Subject to change at whim and gain/loss of weight.
Can't say I've noticed any differences in chains, assuming they're the correct size and not worn out. I've dabbled with all kinds of lubes too and didn't notice any difference in speed. So I go for whatever makes the least mess.
#25
Senior Member
My favourite upgrades that I've done:
1. Converted flat bar to drop bar, including brifters. More hand positions, more speed. Well worth the effort and cost.
2. Converted to a 1 x 9 (bike was originally a 3x9, then went to a 2x9, and finally decided I wanted to do away with the front derailleur entirely). Smoother and less mechanically complicated. Looks better too.
3. Specialized Armadillo tires. Very nearly puncture proof. Have had one flat tire in the 4+ years I've been running these tires.
1. Converted flat bar to drop bar, including brifters. More hand positions, more speed. Well worth the effort and cost.
2. Converted to a 1 x 9 (bike was originally a 3x9, then went to a 2x9, and finally decided I wanted to do away with the front derailleur entirely). Smoother and less mechanically complicated. Looks better too.
3. Specialized Armadillo tires. Very nearly puncture proof. Have had one flat tire in the 4+ years I've been running these tires.